All recommended sites & everything else can be located & checked out with a few clicks - most have 10 photos showing views, food, beds, scenery, facilities, goods - everything you need to make an informed decision & links to all of them.
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Your holiday - Your way
COUNTRY GUIDE
Ancient City - Bangkok
BEST TIME TO GO - Is October to April between the rains easing and starting up again.
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Peak season is December to February.
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Down south the weather varies from the east and west coasts.
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The east coast is good for most of the year and its wettest month is November.
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November to March is the dry season for the west coast. Some of the resorts on the islands close down during the wettest months.
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February and March are the burning season up north and best avoided.
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The ferry from Ko Phi Phi Don to Ko Lipe runs October 15th to May 10th. The island is open all year and you can still travel overland but the weather isn't great.
STAY -
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Most hotels are available on Booking.com unless otherwise stated. It's best to get bookings with free cancellation and pay on site when you get there. Hotels chosen are usually 3*** or 4 or 5 if they are good value. They are chosen firstly for their location, value for money, positive testimonials regarding cleanliness and service and features like rooftop terraces and great views.
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Since the end of Covid a lot of prices have gone through the roof. So if the selected hotel is out of your price range click on the location map and choose something cheaper nearby. Or you might prefer something else but try to stay in the same area.
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Thailand has a wide range of accommodation in all price categories.
VISAS - Click here for information
FLIGHTS -
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Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) - has direct flights to 119 cities in 46 countries.
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Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) - handles the cheap airlines and has direct connections around Asia
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Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) - has direct flights to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Taipei and Seoul
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Hat Yai International Airport (HDY) - has direct flights to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore
AIRPORT TRANSFER - Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) 34km / Don Muang (DMK) 25km
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Official Taxis and Minivans,
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Sky Train Airport shuttle, Free shuttle between airports,
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Public buses,
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Airport Limo
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Once you've bought your tickets get some travel insurance to cover yourself.
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BUDGET -
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It's not as cheap as it used to be but part of that is because now you have more options on what to spend your money on. You can still eat well on the street for a few dollars and get a cheap room but it's much more fun to relax the purse strings. For AUD$100 / US $67 a day as one in a couple or pair you can live quite well and do pretty much as you please. If you don't drink you could probably halve those numbers. One thing is for sure that you will get good value for your dollar.
POPULATION - 70 million
CAPITAL - Bangkok (Village in the Plum Grove)
RELIGION - None official, Theravada Buddhism 95% with a strong undercurrent of Hinduism. Technically Buddhism isn't a religion because the Buddha was a man.
ETHNICITY - Thai 91.5%, Khmer 2.3%, Malay 2.1%, Bamar , 1.5% + 70 ethnic groups
LANGUAGE - Thai
TIPS -
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It's called the Land of Smiles but what they don't tell you is that there are 13 types of smiles and they aren't all good ones :-)
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Learn a few words of Thai and it will make all the difference.
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Thailand is very laid back and a lot of fun. However it does pay to learn the important do's and don'ts and stick to them.
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If you don't want to hire scooters or motorbikes you can get a car, or a motorbike with driver, or a car with driver, charter a tuk tuk, charter a songthaew, take public transport or hire a bicycle if it's not too far.
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Don't forget your International Drivers License
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For the moment all of these trips start off with the same 3 days in Bangkok. If you want to do something different have a look at Bangkok in "Cities".
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Taxis in Bangkok are cheaper than tuk tuks. They are more comfortable, air conditioned, safer and less hassles than tuk tuks, but nowhere near as much fun. You haven't been to Bangkok until you've been in a tuk tuk race through light traffic in the early hours of the morning.
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The number for the Tourist Police is 1155 nationwide. They speak English. You can also download their app on your apple or android phone.
NATIONAL DRINK - Lao Khao, rice whiskey
NATIONAL DISH - Tom Yum Goong (spicy prawn soup) / Som Tam (spicy green papaya salad)
GOVERNMENT - Constitutional Monarchy / Military Junta
BIRTHDAY - 1238 AD
BIG MAC IN $US - $3.84
LITERACY - 96%
LIFE EXPECTANCY - 77
TOURISTS PER YEAR - 40 million
CURRENCY - Thai Baht THB $1 = 33 THB
NO.1 TOURIST SITE - The Grand Palace
MINIMUM WAGE ANNUAL IN $US - $2321
CHEERS - Chon GOW!! (Crash Glass), Chok Dee (Good Luck)
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LANNA THAI - THE NORTH 26N
HIGHLIGHTS - Siam and Lan Na Kingdoms
Bangkok 3N
Ayutthaya 2N
Phitsanoluk 2N
Chiang Mai 3N
Tha Ton - 2N
Chiang Rai 2 + 1N
Sop Ruak 2N
Phayao 2N
Mae Kampong 2N
Chiang Mai 1N = 26N
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Emerald Buddha
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Reclining Buddha
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Golden Buddha
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Royal Palace
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White Temple
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Black House
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Blue Temple
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Hall of Opium
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House of Opium
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World's Best Street Food
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Green Lungs of Bangkok
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The Golden Triangle
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Handicraft Highway
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Bangkok Tuk Tuk Ride
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Thailand's Oldest Town
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Phitsanulok Night Bazaar
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Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
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Chiang Rai Night Bazaar
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Chao Phraya River Cruise
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UNESCO Listed Ayutthaya
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UNESCO Listed Sukhothai
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UNESCO Listed Kamphaeng Phet
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Cycle Ayutthaya's Temples
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Poo Restaurant - Try the Crap
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The World's most expensive coffee
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Thai Massage by women prisoners
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Thailand's Northernmost point and Myanmar visit
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Tham Luang - Khun Nam Nang Non - a very famous cave
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Former Flying through the air Fried Morning Glory Vine World Capital
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Four homes of the Emerald Buddha - Bangkok, Kamphaeng Phet, Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai
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Four Capitals of Lan Na - Chiang Rai, Fang, Wiang Kum Kam & Chiang Mai
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Five Capitals of Siam - Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, Phitsanulok, Thonburi, Bangkok (Krung Thep)
1 Bangkok - 3N
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It will be best to start this trip on a Saturday, Sunday or Monday to avoid the weekend crowds at Mae Kampong later in the trip. There is very limited parking and you will have a car.
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Fly into Suvarnabhumi International Airport then take an official airport taxi to your hotel in the Banglamphu area near Khao San Road. I recommend you download the maps.me app to your phone and download Bangkok and all of the Thailand maps you will need to use to navigate while you are moving around. Also it pays to carry a photocopy of your passport around with you.
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Stay at or near the New Siam Riverside - anywhere in the Banglamphu area will be fine.
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Spend the rest of the afternoon / evening looking around the neighbourhood. You will find everything your heart could desire and quite a few things you didn't even know existed.
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Find a table in the street, order a beer or a bottle of Sang Som (Thai rum), coke, soda and ice bucket then just sit there and watch the world go by. Many countries are represented. If you're a Thai Boxing fan you could go to the nearby Rajadamnern Stadium which has bouts starting around 6.30 PM. It's only 2 km away so you could walk or take a tuk tuk.
2
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Off for a walking tour today to cross the major bucket list items off of your list.
Opium Poppies
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No rush to get up, you need to be at Sky Bar for 6pm opening and Sunset. Unless you're having traditional afternoon tea at the Oriental. (see below)
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Head off at 10am and you should have plenty of time. The restaurant Krua Apsorn doesn't open until 10.30. Save your appetite for it.
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You will need long pants and shoes (men) to get in to Sky Bar ladies get away with being more casual but no flip flops. Zip off pants are a great idea.
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They will be handy for the Grand Palace too, although normally you can rent a sarong or happy pants.
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Watch out for pickpockets around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
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Make your way to the the 14 October 1973 Memorial - 500,000 people gathered here to protest the Three Tyrants
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Then down to the Democracy Monument - where it all began in 1932 and it has become a place for protesters to assemble
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Brunch at Krua Apsorn (Apsorn's Kitchen) a famous place to eat that uses recipes that were used in the palace to feed Royalty - (Stir fried crab in curry powder is highly recommended)
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The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) - hard to miss this one at 21 meters tall, at one time Louis Leonowens the son of Anna (as in the King and I) donated the teak for the swing)
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Next door is Wat (temple) Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworahawihan - is one of the oldest and most important temples - King Rama 8 is buried here
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Nuttaporn Ice cream - time for a cool break, they have local flavours and have been making ice cream pretty much since Bangkok has had it and use the finest mangoes money can buy
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Phraeng Phuton Square - next to Nuttaporn and has some classic old shops that are worth a look
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Bangkok City Pillar Shrine - this was the first building to be put up on this side of the river.
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The Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawang) and the the Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) - which has had an interesting life with lots of travel. Read more about it below in Ayutthaya.
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Catch the ferry across the river at Tha Tian Pier (turn right at Soi Thai Wang and make your way through to the river) to have a look at Wat Arun - the centre of the universe
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Wat Pho - the home of the Reclining Buddha and Thai massage
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Museum Siam - an interactive and fun lesson in Thai history and Thai culture
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It must be time for a drink - make your way to the river and the Yodpiman ferry wharf and take an orange flagged ferry to the Oriental Pier (Don't worry the ticket lady will tell you which ferry to get on - just watch how the locals do it and follow suit - it's an adventure in itself plus you will have a pleasant cruise down the river as well
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Get off at the Oriental Hotel (Bangkok's first hotel and the best in the world for many years in a row) and have a look / drink. Or if you make time you could come here for traditional afternoon tea in the Authors Lounge. (12pm - 6pm) From here make your way to the Sky Bar at the Lebua State Tower - if you're a bit early there's plenty to see in this neighbourhood. The bar opens at 6 pm and it's good to be on time to see it in the light and the dark and the sun sets quickly in the tropics.
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Check the menu prices before you order. Some drinks aren't overly expensive but others certainly are. You only need to stay for one and you'll still have plenty of time to take in the incredible views from up here.
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If you want to continue drinking at much cheaper prices and still with a great view head down to Jack & X's Bar on the riverside. They do food here too.
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Now it's time for dinner and there are many choices. Charoen Krung Rd outside the front of the building has some famous places to eat - or you could take the complimentary ferry (get on just south of the main Sathon Pier) down to ASIATIQUE the Riverfront where you have eating, drinking and shopping in a recreated 1900's style - or you could catch the Sky Train (from Saphan Taksin station) down to Sukhumvit Rd for a night out (there is something for everyone). Or you could do the lot. Drinks at Jack's, dinner on Charoen Krung, a few hours at Asiatique then finish up at Sukhumvit.
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Catching a tuk tuk home and racing through the empty streets is one of the great joys of Bangkok. Don't forget to barter and hang on.
3
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Have another sleep in if you need it. You have another big day ahead. Time for some exercise to blow the cobwebs out. Or you could opt for a motorcycle taxi. You're off to Bang Krachao - the"Green Lungs of Bangkok" (a riverine island that will make you forget you are in the big city). It is the perfect place to cycle around and it has a number of attractions along the way. One of the highlights is riding along the elevated pathways through the mangrove forest and Green Road and Flower Street. Download the maps on Maps.me if you are taking your phone.
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If you go during the week you'll have it to yourself and most places will be open except the two following. If you go on the weekend you'll have lots of company and everything will be open including the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery and the Floating Market. Don't forget to take a hat and a copy of your passport.
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First of all you'll need to eat. You've probably noticed by now that eating is a national past time around here and you are never more than 10 meters away from food at any time. Just down the road is a place that's been there for over 80 years and it's called Karim Roti Mataba. The food is very good and very cheap. Stop in for a bite on your way to the Phra Athit ferry pier. Catch the ferry down to the main Sathon pier by the Thaksin bridge.
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From here take a taxi to the Klong Toey pier. Taxis are generally cheaper, safer, cooler and less hassle than tuk tuks. But nowhere near as much fun! Catch the boat across to Bang Krachao pier where you will see the bicycle rental shop. You'll need you passport copy and they will give you a map and a bottle of water. The bikes are reasonable and very cheap. The map isn't that good, either is google maps, so it's a good thing you downloaded maps.me.
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I would go in an anticlockwise direction. The two dots after the floating market towards the river are close to where you'll find the Green Road and Flower Street. The Bangkok Tree House is a good place to stop for a beer on the roof.
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Green Road - Bang Krachang
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Once you're back across the river find yourself a taxi and go to the Klong Toei Metro Station. You want to head west and get off at the Hua Lamphong MRT station.
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From here walk to Wat Traimit to see the world's largest solid gold Buddha that was discovered by accident
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Enter Chinatown through the China Gate. Chinatown originally was where you were walking around yesterday but was moved here to make way for the Grand Palace. The main road here Yaowarat Rd was the first road in Thailand. The snaking road is said to represent a dragon and the China Gate is its head. It has had a colourful history. Chinatown is actually called Yaowarat. All of your senses will be challenged in this vibrant and colourful area.
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Stroll around - sit down - eat and drink. Seafood here is legendary and one of the most famous spots is the corner where the Lek & Rut (Red team) and T & K (Green team) Seafood Restaurants compete for customers.
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Catch a taxi or tuk tuk home when you've had enough
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4 - 5 Ayutthaya - 2N
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It would be nice to be able to say take a relaxing boat cruise along the River of Kings to the previous capital of Ayutthaya but unfortunately they don't really exist. Hopefully this will change one day soon. Beware of pretend trips that only go to the edge of Bangkok and do the rest of the trip in a van. A train trip is the next best option and there are plenty running each day. It's only an hour or two depending on which train you catch. Sadly by the time you read this the old iconic old Hua Lamphong Station will be closed and you will have to make your way to the new Bang Sue Grand Station. Just grab a tuk tuk to your hotel when you arrive in Ayutthaya.
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Stay a or near Tony's Place Bed & Breakfast - not on Booking.com, try to get something here or anywhere near, as it is on Naresaun Soi 2 (known as Soi Farang or foreigner street). Which means it has bars and night life around it. The other option for night life is on the other side of town at Grand Street which is a sort of a red light area where you may feel less comfortable. Tony's has a pool, garden and a great area to sit around having a few drinks. I highly recommend the Kiwi Soda (in the Italian Sodas section).
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A good way to see the temples is by bicycle. Grab a map from the tourist office, pick the ones you want to see and off you go. Otherwise you could hire a motorbike, charter a tuk tuk or go on a tour. If you have a normal appetite for temples the Buddha's head in the tree, the reclining Buddha and a couple of other main ones should be plenty. You'll still be seeing them as you move around town.
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The Emerald Buddha that you saw at the Grand Palace in Bangkok has quite a history. Originally thought to have been carved in 50 BC it has been on the move ever since. Coveted by many nations it is thought to bring great prosperity to the nation who claims ownership. It protects the nation and gives legitimacy to the rulers. The early years of it's travels are a bit hazy but from the 15th century it's movements, locations and how long it stayed are known.
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It seems it was in Angkor Wat before being taken to the Siamese capital of Ayutthaya but it is not known where it was kept and probably wouldn't exist anymore after the sacking. From here it went to Kamphaeng Phet for a time and was kept at Wat Phra Kaew which is the usual name for a temple that houses the Emerald Buddha. From here it went to Lopburi and ended up in Chiang Rai. In Chiang Rai it was discovered behind stucco in a Chedi after a lightening strike. From here it was going to live in Chiang Mai and was being taken by elephant convoy. When they got to the crossroads leading to Lampang the elephant became excited and ran off that way. They tried another elephant and it too did the same thing. The ruler of Chiang Mai not wanting to upset the spirits let it go to Lampang where it stayed for 32 years before making it to Chiang Mai.
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From here it went to Luang Prabang in Laos and then Vientiane before being taken back to Thonburi and then across to the new Capital where it now resides. It is a fascinating story and there is a lot more to it of course. There is a book out called Chasing the Emerald Buddha - An Alternative Journey Through Thailand, Laos & Angkor if you're interested.
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The Emerald Buddha has three costumes for each of the three seasons. Summer, rainy and winter. The King of Thailand performs the ceremonial changes three time per year. He is the only one who is allowed to touch the Emerald Buddha. It is only 26 inches high.
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Head out to the night market for dinner then check out the Coffee Shop on the way back. It is like a big beer garden with live music and it is located on Naresuan Rd 10 minutes walking west from Soi Farang. Finish the night off with the bars around Soi Farang. Maybe a night tour of the temples. The good thing about the temples here are that they are scattered around the town where every one lives. And they are illuminated. This was the capital before Bangkok but the Burmese came across and sacked the place. If you're familiar with the big golden Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, now you know where the gold came from. Ayutthaya was a very cosmopolitan city at the time and put drabby old London town to shame.
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Cultural Show - Ayutthaya Floating Market
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A visit to the Floating Market is a fun way to spend a few hours. Make sure you catch the cultural show it's hilarious. In a Thai sort of way. Maybe do a cooking course, a river cruise around the island or there's a very nice golf course nearby. Or perhaps the Royal Palace at Bang Pa-In which you can explore on golf buggies. Have a bit more of a look at the town and find yourself a nice riverside restaurant for sun downers and dinner. Or you could try the Balloon Ayutthaya Night Plaza for dinner and drinks then the New Cowboy Bar for some live music and finish up at The Boss for some clubbing.
6 - 7 Phitsanoluk - 2N
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After breakfast make your way to the train station because today you're going to the Former Flying Through The Air Fried Morning Glory Vine Capital of the World, otherwise known as Phitsanulok or Phi-lok for short. I say former because I can't find any information on it. Sadly it might have gone the same way as the now defunct Flying Chicken Restaurant in Bangkok. Flaming roast chickens were catapulted into the air and caught on a spike on a waiters head who was riding a unicycle. He would pedal over to your table and deliver your meal. Hopefully you can still find a version of the flying vegetables in the Night Bazaar somewhere. They used to bus tourists in and they would line up for their chance to climb up to the landing zone and more often than not catch it on their face or shirt. Hilarious stuff that would entertain you for hours. It is known as "Phak Bung Loy Fah" if you're asking around. The 318 km train trip takes under 4 hours
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Stay at or near Little Jasmine by the River - great location on the river, by the bridge and next to Walking Street, it has a Cafe, superb buffet breakfast included, every room has a patio and some have river views, bar, close to floating house restaurants
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Phitsanulok doesn't see a lot of independent travellers so it remains an authentic Thai destination. Spend your time wandering around and getting to know the town and it's history. There is a tramway service around the city to see the sights. Some of them include Chan Palace - the stunning gold roof at Wat Chan Tawan Chok - Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat or Wat Yai for short contains what is considered the most beautiful Buddha image in Thailand and second to the Emerald Buddha - and you can go white water rafting.
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You'll be happy to hear there are plenty of good eating places around and many have great views of the Nan River. For good cheap eats and variety head to the Night Market and Night Bazaar later on. On Saturday nights they have a Walking Street market from 5 - 10pm in the street next to the hotel. A lot of the action happens along the river. The are a lot of bars, live music scattered around different parts of town.
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Image by ยุทธกร รังศรี from Pixabay
8 - 9 Old Sukhothai - 2N
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Hop on the bus to another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sukhothai the capital before Ayutthaya and the first capital of Siam. Where as in Ayutthaya the old city was mixed with the new city here old and new are separate and the Sukhothai Historical Park is nothing short of spectacular. If you get the chance to be here for the Loy Krathong festival in November you're in for a rare privilege.
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King Ramkhamhaeng one of Thailand's most famous Kings ruled here between 1278 and 1298. He invented the Thai alphabet which is pretty much the same that is used today. The other thing he is remembered for is that he had a bell provided on one of the city gates and anyone with a grievance could ring it and the King would listen to their problem and provide a just solution. There is a monument and a museum within the park.
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The bus from Phitsanulok to New Sukhothai takes an hour and a half. When you arrive at the bus station north of the new town you'll need to catch a tuk tuk to the old town. It is about 10 km to the resort and there should be signs with the tuk tuk prices on them. This will add another half hour to the trip by the time you get there.
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Stay at or near Legendha Sukhothai Hotel **** - excellent location on the main road one kilometer from the UNESCO Sukhothai Historical Park, classic Thai design resort, landscaped areas with outdoor swimming pool with sun loungers, sits on the Mae Rampan Canal which the restaurant overlooks and has classical Thai dancing, bar, spa and wellness centre, massage, activities including cooking classes, all rooms have a balcony with canal, temple and courtyard views, bike rental, fabulous buffet breakfast included, tour desk, evening entertainment
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Have lunch, have a swim, have a massage and enjoy a little resort time. Before it gets too late grab one of the bicycles and head down to the historic park for sunset. You could get up early and see the sunrise as well. You could do your own DIY bike tour of the park or if you want to get more of an insight you can do a guided Bicycle Tour of the park or one that also adds riding in the countryside. Or you could talk to the tour desk at the resort.
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If you want to travel between Old and New Sukhothai just hail over a blue Songtheaw going your way (a small truck with people sitting in the back - the name means two benches) or you could charter your own tuk tuk. There's not a lot to see in New Sukhothai but there are more choices for restaurants and bars. Such as the Poo Restaurant. Poo or puu means crab in Thai. In a funny double transliteration gaff the Poo Restaurant sign had a comment suggesting you should try the "Crap"😁.
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One local specialty you should try here is Sukhothai Noodles. The resort has a good restaurant and even though some of them near the park cater to the tourist palate you can still find authentic food around. If you are looking for a drink in the evening outside of the resort, go for a wander up the main street and see what's about. Just like food in Thailand you're never very far away from a spot where you can sit down, settle in, have a session and watch the world go by. At the best prices too.
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Sukhothai UNESCO Historical Park
10 - 11 Kamphaeng Phet - 2N
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For the next leg head back to the bus station at New Sukothai and catch the bus which will take an hour and a half. Get off when it stops at the Clock Tower in Kamphaeng Phet as it is closer to your hotel and will save time and money. If there are no busses you can catch a public songthaew which takes around two hours. The best way to get around here is to hire a bicycle or a scooter. In these towns that don't see many tourists the public transport can be a bit limited as everyone has their own wheels. This town used to protect Ayutthaya from Burma and eventually that led to it's demise.
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Stay at or near Navarat Heritage Hotel ** - great location near the river and the night market, cafe, bar, very good breakfast included, fitness centre, bicycle rental
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Get yourself a scooter so you can go a bit further out and see the Phra Ruang hot springs (don't forget your bathers) and the Grand Canyon (before you get too excited, Thailand has many Grand Canyon's and they're not always that grand). There is another historical park, a temple - Wat Phra Kaeo where the Emerald Buddha used to reside and many other attractions including the Banana Market.
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You'll have a few more options for eating and drinking here than you had in Old Sukothai. The Night Market is right next door. There are bars with live music both north ands south. Across the river are numerous riverside restaurant bars. Head down to the riverside for sunset. Muu Kata cook your own BBQ are a big thing around here
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12 - 14 Chiang Mai - 3N
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Ask the hotel about bus times before you head out across the river to the Bus Station. The bus may go through Lampang (still following the trail of the Emerald Buddha) and could take around 5 hours to get to everybody's favourite town - Chiang Mai. They leave roughly hourly from 11.30am to 10.30 pm and arrive at Chiang Mai Bus Terminal 3. You will need to organise a tuk tuk or taxi to get to the hotel.
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Chiang Mai has pretty much got the lot. Many ex-pats retire here for that reason. And it's not just the town, the whole area is surrounded by mountains, resorts, golf courses, hot springs, handicrafts, restaurants, ziplines in an ancient forest, a grand canyon water park in a disused quarry and a whole lot more. You can Segway around the old town, shop every night at the huge Night Bazaar, help rehabilitate female prisoners with massage, the eating options are endless (with some great northern specialties), there are different nightlife areas and the climate is pleasantly cooler than most other parts of Thailand. One local invention is the Khantoke dinner which combines a meal of local dishes while watching a cultural show. Just don't come between January and March when the Burning season fills the air with smoke.
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Chiang Mai
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Stay at or near the Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa **** - excellent location on Loi Kroh Road near the moat, close to many restaurants and bars, walking distance to the Night Bazaar and the river, close to Sunday Walking Street, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar, spa, massage, Thai-style rooms, tour desk - Chiang Mai has a lot of accommodation in all classes, click here for more information about the different areas you could stay in.
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If you are on the trail of the Emerald Buddha it was kept in Wat Chedi Luang for 77 years. Just before the Emerald Buddha left town the Chedi was partially destroyed by an earthquake. You can find this temple in the centre of the old city.
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If you are on the ancient capitals trail Wiang Kum Kam is 6 kms south of the city and there is an information centre there. It was discovered by chance back in 1980 and there are several dozen ancient monuments there which have been excavated.
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There are a lot of options below and it would be impossible to squeeze them into your time here. Just pick out what appeals to you and don't forget to relax.
EAT
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Breakfast - Blue Diamond Breakfast Club (Old favourite) - Smoothie Blues (Tha Pae and Nimmanhaemin locations) - Chiang Mai Breakfast World (In a German Beer Garden) - Phon Non Cafe (A bit of everything) - Bagel House Cafe & Bakery (Lots of fillings)
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Lunch - Aroon Rai (Great Curries, Northern Sausage and the beers are cold) - Intrawarorot Food Street (Chicken Shops near the 3 Kings Monument) - Huen Phen (Khao Soi and other family recipes) - Cherng Doi Roast Chicken (Crispy skin Chicken, Tamarind sauce, Sticky rice and Som Tam) - Mit Mai (Yunnanese food) - Royal Project Kitchen (Healthy, cheap and you can visit the Royal Park) - Noodle Soups (Health in a delicious bowl)
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Afternoon Smoko - Mont Nomsod (Thailand's first Milk Bar, the Bangkok branch) - Akha Ama Coffee (Hilltribe Coffee) - Kafe Bannok Coffee Roasters (Tables and chairs in the stream to keep you cool - on the way to the Grand Canyon) - Magokoro Teahouse (Japanese Tea Ceremony and Matcha treats) - Fern Forest Cafe (17 types cakes and pies) - Ristr8to (4 branches)
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Dinner - Dash Teak House (The house, the food and live music) - Palaad Tawanron (For the views and the food) - Riverside (Roast Duck in Tamarind Sauce, live music) and Dinner cruise - Khan Toke Dinner at the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre - Baan Huen Phen (connected to the other one serving Lanna Thai Cuisine) - Khao Mao Khao Fang (An Imaginary Jungle) - Tong Tem Toh (Burmese Pork Curry) - The Night Bazaar (Dinner, drinks and shopping - everybody's happy)
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Late Night - Roti Carts (scattered around) - Won ton and red pork noodle soup south west of the Tha Pae Gate - The Cowboy Hat Lady (Braised Pork and Rice opposite the North Gate) - Jok Sompet (24 hours with Basil chicken) - Zoe in Yellow (Backpackers hangout with burgers, kebabs and Mexican) - 7-11's (look closely and you'll be surprised - the sushi is pretty good and that's not all)
DO - In Town
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Walking tours - free plus tips
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Segway tour - a great way to get around
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Cooking School - take some knowledge home for a souvenir
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Massage at the Women's Prison - go there, make your booking, then have lunch at Intrawarorot Food Street (see food above) and go back and have your massage. It's not actually in the prison but across the road. The women are prisoners though and this is giving them some pocket money and some training for when they get out. There are a number of copy cat places that have sprung up nearby with "ex-women prisoners".
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Scorpion Boat cruise - see the Ping River
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Sunday Walking Street Market - shopping and eating bonanza near the hotel
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Temple tour - self guided and free
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Monk Chats - tips for happiness
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Get a traditional bamboo tattoo - (Sak Yant) from a monk
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Yoga - massage the inner you
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Hire a motorbike or scooter and ride the Samoeng Loop - Around 100 km
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Take a Muay Thai class - Thai Boxing
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Chiang Mai Night Safari - the largest nocturnal zoo in the world
DO - Out of Town
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Doi Suthep - Visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep - Mountain Biking - Have lunch at Na Chantra Restaurant - Visit the Hmong Village - Do a meditation course
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Go to an Elephant Camp - where the elephants are well treated
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Visit a Long Neck Karen Village - and help support them
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Chiang Mai Grand Canyon - Go Cliff Diving or some more sedate activities
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Play Golf - a couple of courses
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Go to Doi Inthanon - Thailand's tallest mountain
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Hike the Monks Trail - to Wat Pha Lat the jungle temple
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Chiang Mai hikes - in different areas
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Go on the Flight of the Gibbons Zipline adventure - in a beautiful forest (you can save this for when you're staying in Mae Kampong which is where it is)
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Visit Huay Tung Tao Lake - for lunch and a lazy afternoon, don't forget your bathers
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Go Ballooning - an excuse to drink champagne at 8.00 o'clock in the morning
DRINK
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Check this list from Mad Monkey first and this one
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Night Bazaar - The Red Lion - Ladyboy Cabaret - Boy Blues Bar
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Riverside - The Riverside - The Good View - Deck 1
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Loi Kroh - just do a pub crawl starting outside your front door
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Tha Pae Gate and along the moat - THC Rooftop Bar - go for a stroll
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Nimmanhaemin - Culture Trip - Warm Up Cafe
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Old Town - North Gate Jazz Co-Op - 10 Best - Zoe in Yellow
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Hand Painted Umbrellas
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Go to Chiang Mai Tours 2
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15 - 16 Tha Ton - 2N
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Chiang Mai has 3 bus stations and the one you want is Chang Puak Bus Terminal 1, it is 650m north of the North / or Chang Puak Gate. Take the local transport to Tha Ton, it may be a bus (no a/c but much more leg room) or a minivan. It's a pretty little town very close to the Myanmar border. It sits on either side of the scenic Kok River which you will travel along to Chiang Rai in a couple of days. You can even organise an overnight Hill Tribe stopover along the way or you could go trekking from Tha Ton itself. Anything from a few hours to several days.
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Don't forget to book your boat tickets at the pier by the Police Box. It takes 4 hours and leaves around 12.30pm. If you can get the numbers together you can hire your own boat and make a day of it with a few stops along the way. Or the public boat is still a great experience. The daily service runs between July to December and until the river levels are too low. You still may be able to charter your own boat when river levels are low. This river trip is one the highlights for many people.
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In the town stay at or near Saranya River House **** - excellent location near the river, the boat dock and the main street, outdoor swimming pool, ATM, restaurant, cafe, tour desk, minimart, massage - anywhere on the river is nice, although some could be a bit run down
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Resort a little further out (1.5km from the bridge) Maekok River Village Resort **** - excellent location riverside with stunning views, beautiful tropical gardens, outdoor swimming pool, full English breakfast included, Spice Garden Restaurant, Aod's Bar (coffee), trekking, cycling and cooking classes, all rooms have patio / balcony with mountain and river views
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Wat Tha Ton
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You can rent a scooter and visit the Hill Tribes and check out the awesome scenery. Or you could climb the nine levels at Wat Tha Ton (temple) and see the incredible view from the top and have a look into Myanmar. Or you could laze around by the pool or find a nice riverside restaurant and chill out for a few hours with a beer or a banana shake.
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The northern rice sausages that come out on the main road in the afternoon are excellent along with some sticky rice and som tam goong (spicy green papaya salad with dried shrimp). It's a great little town to have a day off and recharge the batteries for the rest of your trip.
17 - 18 Chiang Rai - 2N + 1
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Enjoy the boat trip today along the very scenic Kok River to Chiang Rai. Book into your hotel down the road from the Night Bazaar in Chiang Rai. This is the second largest town in the north after Chiang Mai and was the first capital of the Lan Na Kingdom. The Night Bazaar is a large rectangular area surrounded by food stalls and bars. One end has a stage where musical and cultural performances happen for free. They have a delicious cook your own soup that costs about $2. All in all it's hard to beat and the bar street is a short walk away.
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Stay at or near the Wiang Inn Hotel **** - excellent location in the centre of town, outdoor swimming pool, 3 dining options, northern Thai furnishings, bar, very good buffet breakfast included, massage, karaoke, cafe, night club, 24 hour desk.
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Get yourself a scooter and have a look at some of the sights. If you like your temples coloured you're in the right place. Here they have White (you could leave this one until you head south), Black (leave this one until you head up north) and Blue and they are all very impressive. Pay close attention to the details especially the characters in some of the murals. If you're still following in the Emerald Buddha's footsteps you will need to go to Wat Phra Kaew which is north of the clock tower. There is a replica Emerald Buddha here so you won't have to tax your imagination as much.
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Wat Rong Khun the White Temple - Chiang Rai
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Chiang Rai UTV Adventure Tours is an off road place near the bars on Jetyod Road. They're not cheap but they can be a lot of fun. If you want to spend a day at the beach you can do that too, even though you're about a thousand kilometers from the coast. If you are a golfer, you can't go past Santiburi which is the best golf course around here.
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Saturday nights feature the very large Chiang Rai Walking Street market. There seems to be enough food here to feed the whole province. Another local eating experience you may want to try is a Khantoke dinner. It involves a number of specialty dishes plus a cultural show. On any other nights start off in the Night Bazaar, then head to the bars in Jetyod Road for a while then finish the night at the night clubs down the south end of town around the Sperm Pub and the Par Club on Ratbumroong Road. Sing and Tawan Daeng are another couple of popular places. The kids are very friendly so even if you're feeling a bit old you'll be made welcome. There's lots of late night noodle soup shops to cap off a great night out before you head home feeling fully restored. These clubs put on a great show and you are allowed to take your own bottle in and just pay for mixers and ice which makes it an incredibly cheap experience.
19 - 20 Sop ruak - 2N (Golden Triangle)
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Leave your main pack behind at the hotel and head on up to Sop Ruak and the Golden Triangle with your day pack. You have various options with transport. Motorbike is best, or hire a car (the roads are good and traffic isn't too bad), or get a car with driver (not too expensive up here) or take public transport. It is very scenic with the jungle and the mountains.
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Turn left just past the hospital heading north on Hwy 1 then follow the signs to the amazing Black House (Baan Dam) museum. It's hard not to be impressed. Get an early start as it's easy to spend a few hours here.
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Stay at Serene at Chiang Rai *** - (not on Booking.com at the time of writing), excellent location on the river and near all of the attractions, free parking, make sure you get a river view room, restaurant and bar, outdoor river view café
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Another great value hotel a little futher away from the river is the Imperial Golden Triangle Resort **** - great location close to everything, on a hill so you still get wonderful river views from the restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, bar, karaoke, free parking, spa and wellness centre
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For some real luxury how about $4,000 to sleep in a tent at the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle ***** - swimming pool, bar, restaurant, wellness
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Visit the Hall of Opium and the equally interesting House of Opium. Head out to the impressive Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort for coffee or cocktails and perhaps buy some Black Ivory or more literally Elephant Poo coffee. Said to be the world's most expensive coffee and dearer than Kopi Luwak (Civet Poo coffee). You can go for a long tailed boat ride on the Mekong River and see the tacky development on the Lao side. You used to be able to go over to a market at Don Sao in Laos but that has been closed down. Head to Golden Triangle Park for that obligatory photo. Pretty little riverside Chiang Saen is just down the road and it is the oldest city in Thailand. It has markets, museums and old temples and ruins of course.
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There is not a lot of night life around here but you can always find a local restaurant where you can sit around having a few drinks and a laugh meeting the locals.
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Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin - Big Buddha at Sop Ruak
21 Chiang Rai - 1N
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Head to the market and border town of Mae Sai. This is the northernmost point in Thailand. If you want to you can normally cross into Myanmar for a few hours without a visa. Look around, have lunch and you'll be amazed how different things are on this side of the border. Do some shopping and pick up some Royal Myanmar Teamix packets and Burmese cheroots.
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From Mae Sai head to Tham Luang Khun Nam Nang Non. You've heard the name before but it probably doesn't sound familiar. This is the cave that the Wild Boars soccer team and their coach were trapped in for for 18 days and captured the attention of the world in 2018. These days there is a memorial, a museum, replica cave sections and all manner of things for the tourists.
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Continue on to Chiang Rai and enjoy another night in this magic place. If you hired a car, hang on to it. If you didn't organise one from tomorrow for four days and being dropped off in Chiang Mai. A small one is best for some of the narrow roads coming up.
22 - 23 Phayao - 2N
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It's about an hour and a half drive down Hwy 1 to lakeside Phayao. If you haven't visited the White Temple yet it's 12 km south of town on the right.
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Not many people get around to visit charming Phayao (even Thais) but they should. It has a great bar scene with lots of live music. The local ladies are renowned for their beauty. The lakeside restaurants specialize in Phayao's signature dish - grilled fish, and they are on display out the front. Grab a beer and a feed and enjoy the effect of the sunset on the lake. Every night there is a Night Market. In the middle of the lake is the 500 year old partially sunken temple Wat Tilok Aram which is also very picturesque at sunset. Mix all of that with some of the outlying attractions and you really have a hidden gem. Check out around the town on one day and go for a drive around the lake on the other day.
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Sunken Temple - Phayao
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Stay at or near the Phuglong Luxury Hotel *** - not on Booking.com, excellent location by the lake and near the restaurant, bars and boat pier, free parking, fitness centre, restaurant
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Wat Sri Khom Kham - Heaven and Hell
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Champa Thong Waterfall - Go for a trek and a swim
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Wat Analayo - The temple in a forest
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TonBua Cafe - Refresh with some chocolate
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Mae Tam Fresh Market - Look for souvenirs
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Dok Kham Tai - Buy a broom
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24 - 25 Mae Kampong - 2N
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Make your way down to the Doi Saket Hot Springs for a soak and a massage if you like. Continue the relaxation with lunch at Tharnthong Lodges. The scenery through here is pretty amazing and if you like coffee you'll be amazed at how many cafes there are scattered through the hills. Some built up in the trees and most with stunning views. A bit further along is the little known and picture post card worthy village of Mae Kampong. It gets very crowded here from Friday to Sunday so it's best to come Monday to Thursday. This will mean starting the trip on a Saturday, Sunday or Monday. There is no room on the shoulders of the road to park. In town one of the few places is the local temple Wat Kantha Pruska which has room for around 20 cars.
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After lunch continue down the road to Mae Kampong Village and park at the temple. Walk back along the road the way you came and find yourself somewhere nice to stay. If you get stuck there is the Tharnthong Lodges and Igarden / Sounchan Coffee (Booking.com) across the road.
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There are a lot of things to do around here but it's also a wonderful place to do nothing. Just sit around, relax and drink in the coffee, the beer and the views. So a bit of both is probably a good idea. There are a lot of cafes around but one you really must get to is The Giant Chiang Mai (they only have 20 customers per day and you need to make a booking). If you didn't get to do the Flight of the Gibbons from Chiang Mai you are right on their doorstep out here. For more action there is the Skyline Luge and Crazy Horse Buttress if you want to go rock climbing. There is the Mae Kampong Waterfall, Kew Fin viewpoint plus a heap of shops, cafes and restaurants to check out. Such as the uniquely named Uncle Man's Pork Hotpot 800m back from the temple carpark. The hotpot is similar to a Lao style BBQ or Sin Dat and the views are fantastic.
26 Chiang Mai & Beyond - 1N
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Firstly head to the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs and have a good soak. Keen golfers may want to go straight to the wonderful Chiang Mai Highlands Golf and Spa Resort and have a soak after the round. Next stop is the impressive Muang On Cave which contains Buddha relics.
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Head to Bo Sang Umbrella Village and make your way back to Chiang Mai via a Hwy 1006 the Handicrafts Highway. Along the way you will find markets, silverware, lacquerware, ceramics, pottery, jewellery, umbrella painting, silk, wood carving, carved wood furniture, an art gallery, cotton, paper and other fascinating places all along the way. It is fascinating to watch these artisans at work and some of the prices are incredibly cheap for the amount of labour involved. They are quite happy to ship items of ANY size back home for you. It is a great way to spend the day.
ISTHMUS OF KRA - THE SOUTH 29N
HIGHLIGHTS - GULF, SEA & Beaches
Bangkok 3N
Amphawa 2N
Hua Hin 3N
Surat Thani 1N
Krabi 2N
Railay Beach 3N
Ko Phi Phi 2N
Ko Lipe 5N
Hat Yai 1N = 29N
⚓This trip uses a ferry from Ko Phi Phi to Ko Lipe which runs from October 15 to May 10 - if you go outside of this window you may have to use alternative ferries or travel overland. ⚓
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Sun Dried Deep Fried Cotton Fish
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Thailand's best Floating Market
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Thailand's most beautiful beach
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Maeklong Railway Market
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Black Mountain Golf Course
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Dusky Langurs
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Maya Bay - Star of "The Beach"
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Island's Cruise
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Bioluminescent Plankton
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The Best food in the South
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Sea Kayak with monkeys
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Narrowest point of Thailand
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Thailand's best Rock Climbing
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Thailand's southernmost island
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Thailand's largest freshwater marsh
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Thailand's second most famous cave
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Thailand's first Marine National Park
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The Crab Company's sampling menu
1 Bangkok - 3N
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Fly into Suvarnabhumi International Airport then take an official taxi to your hotel in the Banglamphu area near Khao San Road. I recommend you download the maps.me app to your phone and download all of the Thailand maps so you can use it to navigate while you are moving around. Also it pays to carry a photocopy of your passport around with you.
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Stay at or near the New Siam Riverside - anywhere in the Banglamphu area will be fine.
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Spend the rest of the afternoon / evening looking around the neighbourhood. You will find everything your heart could desire and quite a few things you didn't even know existed.
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Find a table in the street, order a beer or a bottle of Sang Som (Thai rum), coke, soda and ice bucket then just sit there and watch the world go by. Just about every demographic of the world is represented. If you're a Thai Boxing fan you could go to the nearby Rajadamnern Stadium which has bouts starting around 6.30 PM. It's only 2 km away so you could walk or take a tuk tuk.
2
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Off for a walking tour today to cross the major bucket list items off of your list.
Ao Nang
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No rush to get up, you need to be at Sky Bar for 6pm opening and Sunset
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Head off at 10am and you should have plenty of time. The restaurant Krua Apsorn doesn't open until 10.30. Try to save your appetite.
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You will need long pants and shoes (men) to get in to Sky Bar ladies get away with being more casual but no flip flops. Zip off pants are a great idea.
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They will be handy for the Grand Palace too, although normally you can rent a sarong or happy pants.
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Watch out for pickpockets around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
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Make your way to the the 14 October 1973 Memorial - 500,000 people gathered here to protest the Three Tyrants
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Then down to the Democracy Monument - where it all began in 1932 and it has become a place for protesters to assemble
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Brunch at Krua Apsorn (Apsorn's Kitchen) a famous place to eat that uses recipes that were used in the palace to feed Royalty - (Stir fried crab in curry powder is highly recommended)
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The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) - hard to miss this one at 21 meters tall, at one time Louis Leonowens the son of Anna (as in the King and I) donated the teak for the swing)
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Next door is Wat (temple) Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworahawihan - is one of the oldest and most important temples - King Rama 8 is buried here
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Nuttaporn Ice cream - time for a cool break, they have local flavours and have been making ice cream pretty much since Bangkok has had it and use the finest mangoes money can buy
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Phraeng Phuton Square - next to Nuttaporn and has some classic old shops that are worth a look
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Bangkok City Pillar Shrine - this was the first building put up on this side of the river
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The Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawang) and the the Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) - which has had an interesting life with lots of travel. Read more about it here.
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Wat Pho - the home of the Reclining Buddha and Thai massage
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Museum Siam - an interactive and fun lesson in Thai history and Thai culture
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It must be time for a drink - make your way to the river and the Yodpiman ferry wharf and take an orange flagged ferry to the Oriental Pier (Don't worry the ticket lady will tell you which ferry to get on - just watch how the locals do it and follow suit - it's an adventure in itself plus you will have a pleasant cruise down the river as well
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Get off at the Oriental Hotel (Bangkok's first hotel and the best in the world for many years in a row) and have a look / drink. Or if you make time you could come here for traditional afternoon tea in the Authors Lounge. (12pm - 6pm) From here make your way to the Sky Bar at the Lebua State Tower - if you're a bit early there's plenty to see in this neighbourhood. The bar opens at 6 pm and it's good to be on time to see it in the light and the dark and the sun sets quickly in the tropics.
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Check the menu prices before you order. Some drinks aren't overly expensive but others certainly are. You only need to stay for one and you'll still have plenty of time to take in the incredible views from up here.
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If you want to continue drinking at much cheaper prices and still with a great view head down to Jack & X's Bar on the riverside. They do food here too.
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Now it's time for dinner and there are many choices. Charoen Krung Rd outside the front of the building has some famous places to eat - or you could take the complimentary ferry (get on just south of the main Sathon Pier) down to ASIATIQUE the Riverfront where you have eating, drinking and shopping in a recreated 1900's style - or you could catch the Sky Train (from Saphan Taksin station) down to Sukhumvit Rd for a night out (there is something for everyone). Or you could do the lot. Drinks at Jack's, dinner on Charoen Krung, a few hours at Asiatique then finish up at Sukhumvit.
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Catching a tuk tuk home and racing through the empty streets is one of the great joys of Bangkok. Don't forget to barter and hang on.
3
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Have another sleep in if you need it. You have another big day ahead. Time for some exercise to blow the cobwebs out. Or you could opt for a motorcycle taxi. You're off to Bang Krachao - the"Green Lungs of Bangkok" (a riverine island that will make you forget you are in the big city). It is the perfect place to cycle around and it has a number of attractions along the way. One of the highlights is riding along the elevated pathways through the mangrove forest and Green Road and Flower Street.
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If you go during the week you'll have it to yourself and most places will be open except the two following. If you go on the weekend you'll have lots of company and everything will be open including the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery and the Floating Market. Don't forget to take a hat and a copy of your passport.
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First of all you'll need to eat. You've probably noticed by now that eating is a national past time around here and you are never more than 10 meters away from food at any time. Just down the road is a place that's been there for over 80 years and it's called Karim Roti Mataba. The food is very good and very cheap. Stop in for a bite on your way to the Phra Athit ferry pier. Catch the ferry down to the main Sathon pier by the Thaksin bridge.
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From here take a taxi to the Klong Toey pier. Taxis are generally cheaper, safer, cooler and less hassle than tuk tuks. But nowhere near as much fun! Catch the boat across to Bang Krachao pier where you will see the bicycle rental shop. You'll need you passport copy and they will give you a map and a bottle of water. The bikes are reasonable and very cheap. The map isn't that good, either is google maps, so it's a good thing you downloaded maps.me.
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I would go in an anticlockwise direction. The two dots after the floating market towards the river are the Green Road and Flower Street. The Bangkok Tree House is a good place to stop for a beer on the roof.
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Once you're back across the river find yourself a taxi and go to the Klong Toei Metro Station. You want to head west and get off at the Hua Lamphong MRT station.
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From here walk to Wat Traimit to see the world's largest solid gold Buddha that was discovered by accident
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Enter Chinatown through the China Gate. Chinatown originally was where you were walking around yesterday but was moved here to make way for the Grand Palace. The main road here Yaowarat Rd was the first road in Thailand. The snaking road is said to represent a dragon and the China Gate is its head. It has had a colourful history. Chinatown is actually called Yaowarat. All of your senses will be challenged in this vibrant and colourful area.
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Stroll around - sit down - eat and drink. Seafood here is legendary and one of the most famous spots is the corner where the Lek & Rut (Red team) and T & K (Green team) Seafood Restaurants compete for customers.
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Catch a taxi or tuk tuk home when you've had enough
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4 Amphawa - 2N
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Time to get out of the big city for a few days. You can leave your luggage at the hotel and just travel with your day pack. You will be riding on what was a private railway (Known as the Mae Klong - Maha Chai Railway) and having a nice long seafood lunch looking out over the river. Later you will visit the famous train market and end up at the best floating market in Thailand where you will be staying for the weekend. There has been a market around this canal for over 400 years. It is very popular with Bangkokians who love to come here and eat.
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First of all you'll need to retrace your steps and make your way to the Phra Athit pier and get off at Central / Sathorn. From her go to the BTS Skytrain Station Saphan Taksin and head west for two stops to BTS Wongwian Yai.
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From here walk 700m north to the Wongwian Yai Train Station. Trains run every 30 mins to an hour starting from 5.30 am. It takes an hour to get to the first destination. It would pay to check this information.
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Get off the train at the the end of the line at the Maha Chai Train Station. It's a short walk from here to the restaurant and you an have a look at the seafood market on the way.
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Settle in at the Tha Ruea Fish Restaurant and have a nice long and relaxed lunch. The second floor is said to be best. This place was famous and had a good reputation but lately has been getting some bad reports. So if it is empty you may want to try some of the other nearby places. If it's jumping dive on in. Keep a few of your wits as you've still got some navigating to do 😃
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That was the Mahachai part of the railroad now it's time to do the Mae Klong section. You will need to catch the ferry across the river to the Tha Chalom pier walk out, turn right and find the Ban Laem Railway Station which is about 400m away. You'll need to be here for the 1.30 pm or 4.40 pm train which takes an hour. Otherwise you can catch a bus from the market, but it would be nice to arrive at the Mae Klong Train Market on the train wouldn't it? You may need to come back over the weekend and see it from the outside if you're on the last train
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Amphawa Floating Market
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Have a look around the market if you like then it is a short taxi ride to your hotel in the Amphawa Floating Market.
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Stay at RoomQuest Rimrabeang And Suite (book this as far ahead as you can) - or Amphawa Nanon Hotel *** or anywhere on the water and near the floating market. Have a relaxing evening settling in. Find a nice riverside restaurant and have a meal and a few drinks. Even on weekends there is not a lot of nightlife action when the market closes down. You will find a few bars where you can get a drink and your best bet would be a riverside restaurant with a nice view.
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The market is open Friday to Sunday 10 AM - 9.30 PM. It's good to start off on a non-market day so you get to have it to yourself and see it when it is tranquil. There are a lot of other activities in the area as well.
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In no particular order try to find time for the following - longtail boat cruises, public or hire your own (there are 300 canals around here) - the Khai Bang Kung Fort and Banyan Tree Temple - Firefly Cruise (more than 100 species) - explore the market on foot - eat...... a lot - get up early to see Buddhist Monks paddling along collecting alms from the villagers - see how Palm Sugar is made (a local specialty) - if you want to experience the Floating Market you've seen on TV it's only 20 mins up the road, it's called the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and it's touristy and expensive but it's also lively and fun (you could go there in the morning it opens at 7 AM) - if you want to go for a small excursion you could visit the Chang and Eng Memorial (the original Siamese Twins) where they were born (plus a local boat museum) then have lunch at the seafood restaurants down near Don Hoi Lot.
6 - 8 Hua Hin - 3N
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Take a taxi to Pak Tho Train Station which is 18km and 30 minutes away. Catch the train from there to the quaint Hua Hin Train Station. There are only 2 trains (hour and a half) a day as this is the main southern line and most trains go straight through. The other option is Ratchaburi Train Station which is 26 km and 40 minutes away. There are 5 trains (2 hours) per day from here.
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Hua Hin was Thailand's first seaside resort and this is where the Royal Family came for their summer holidays in the Klai Kangwon Palace. Hua Hin has a good mix of everything and because of it's Royal connection is a bit tamer than some of the other resort towns. Big enough to have plenty of options but small enough to avoid the hassles.
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Have a seafood meal on the pier or graze at the Night Market. Visit Hua Hin's Monsoon Valley Vineyard or just enjoy the beach or your hotel pool. There are two very good golf courses nearby that shouldn't be missed, Black Mountain (Asia's Best Course) and Banyan (a former pineapple plantation).
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The nightlife area here is pretty cool too with a group of bars on Soi Bintabaht and Poon Suk Rd for starters. The Five ***** Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas by the beach used to be the Railway Hotel which was used to depict the French Embassy in the film The Killing Fields. It was far more affordable back then too. There are a few Thai-style theme parks in the hinterland as well. Just hire a scooter or a vehicle with driver to get around the place. Some of the upmarket hotels are great value and worth checking out their prices.
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Hua Hin Resort
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Stay at the - Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas ***** - iconic hotel, excellent location on the beach close to bars, restaurants and the Night Market, beautiful grounds, 4 outdoor swimming pools, 4 restaurants, bar, spa and wellness centre, colonial style rooms, balconies, tennis courts, fitness centre
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Or the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa ***** - excellent location beachside, close to bars, restaurants and the Night Market, outdoor swimming pool with pool bar, 5 dining options including rooftop and outdoor terraces, ocean views with floor to ceiling windows, spa and wellness centre, tennis courts, fitness centre
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Anchan Hotel & Spa **** - great location near everything, outdoor swimming pool, terrace, bar, spa and wellness centre
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Karoon Hut ** - great value for low budgets out over the water, lounge terrace, close to everything, sea views, bar,
9 - 11 Sam Roi Yot Beach - 3N
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It's only 45km from Hua Hin to Sam Roi Yot so the easiest, quickest and cheapest way to get there is to hire a taxi / car / songthaew to take you straight there. Make your way to your resort where you will be based to explore the marvels of Thailand's first Marine National Park.
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It has the lot and you'll need to get busy to see as much as you can. Flora, many rare animals, Irrawaddy dolphins, 300 species of birds, hundreds of limestone peaks, stunning coastline, wetlands, viewpoints, forests, canals, mangroves, the largest freshwater marsh in Thailand with a boardwalk and the star of the show the famous Phraya Nakhon Cave. (best visited at the "Golden Hour" 10.30 - 11.30 am) Not a lot of people know about this park full of treasures.
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Stay at or near The Green Beach Resort *** - in a great location 1 minute from the beach, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, free bicycles, fabulous breakfast included, massage
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If you would like a secluded resort have a look at La Isla Pranburi Beach Resort **** - great location on it's own beach, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar - happy hour, cafe, garden, hot tub and terrace, cycling and canoeing, spa and wellness centre, evening entertainment
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There are restaurants and bars along beach road. DPM is a decent 9 hole golf course around the corner from your hotel. You can get around by bicycle but to see most of the park you'll need a scooter. Which you can get at Monkey Bar, J&J Motorbike and Bike for rent and Dolphin Bay Resort.
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Some of the local restaurants and bars you may want to check out include - The Monkey Bar , which has live music sometimes - Jim Daeng, which means red female genitalia and has very spicy seafood (stir fried scallops and basil recommended) - Thai Thai Restaurant, good food and drinks with outdoor seating - Dolphin Bay Resort, Happy Hour 3 - 5pm - Six Palms Saloon, one of the best around for food and drink
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12 - 13 Prachuap Khiri Khan - 2N
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Next stop down the coast is a bit of a tongue twister Prachuap Khiri Kahn. It's only 55km so a taxi is the best way to get here also. This is another place that isn't on the tourist map. The most narrow point in Thailand is near here and you can ride out for a look and check out the market. There has been talk for years about digging a canal across the Isthmus of Kra. It would be the Kra Canal or Thai Canal depending on where it ends up. There are four different locations considered with the preferred one being 128 kms from Krabi Provence in the west to Songkhla Provence in the east. With China's plans for the new Silk Road it could finally happen. Pick up your train ticket out of here while you're wandering around town.
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Stay at or near the Hadthong Hotel*** - excellent location on the beachfront close to restaurants, bars and the Night Market, outdoor sea facing swimming pool, balconies with sea views, fabulous breakfast included, restaurant, free parking, on weekends there is a Weekend Night Market which runs along the beach road out the front by the pier
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It is an attractive and laid back fishing village that has some special seafood dishes worth trying. There is a colony of Dusky Leaf monkeys which are one of the cuter varieties of primates. You will meet them when you go to Ao Manao beach where you can get deckchairs, snacks and refreshments like cold beer. If you want to run the gauntlet with the more aggressive macaques you'll find them at the Monkey Temple - Wat Thammikaran Worawihan. And up Monkey Mountain to Wat Khao Chong Krachok. Sunrise is a good time to do this climb for the views out to sea and the cool temperatures. Part of the temple complex is down at street level and the other part is up 418 steps. Further north at the end of the bay is at the Khao Ta Mong Lai Forest Park. Another local attraction is the King Mongkut Memorial Park of Science and Technology at Wat Ko plus the Waghor Aquarium.
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Back in 1868 King Mongkut successfully predicted the occurrence of a solar eclipse. At the time many Thai's still believed the earth was flat and this was a way to prove modern science to them. He set up an elaborate campsite at Waghor Beach and invited numerous international and local guests to witness the eclipse. The King was spot on with his predictions but unfortunately he contracted malaria and died 6 weeks after the eclipse.
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It is a good place to explore by bicycle and has a bike path all along the seafront. A scooter would be handy to get further out to places like the Don Singkhon Market at the nearby Thai - Myanmar Border. This is the narrowest part of Thailand Or you could hire a tuk tuk if you don't like riding. You can rent bicycles and motorbikes in the Soi south of the Zea Zide Hotel. At the time of writing this border was closed.
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Another good place for a scooter ride is Wat Thang Sai, a beautiful temple an hour south at Ban Krut set in a stunning location.
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As you would expect you can get very good seafood around here for a great price. One of the specialties is sun dried deep fried cotton fish. Very tasty, just like KFC. Try it at the Ploen Samut Restaurant. Right next to the hotel. Rap Lom is the place to go for chunky crab curry. There are a few bars around town with live music and plenty of shops and restaurants where you can sit down and have a bottle or two.
14 Surat Thani - 1N
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Take the afternoon train trip down to Surat Thani. The #43 is the quickest. It leaves at 13.40 and arrives at 18.50 meaning you'll be able to see the scenery most of the way. Spend the night here to relax and break the journey up. Plus you'll get to see another town and go to another Night Market. There is a special one on Saturday nights. Or you may prefer one of the large open air riverside seafood restaurants that usually have live music as well. A good place to relax over a bottle of Sang Som or two. The Crossroads Riverside is a bit of an institution. They specialise in the local oysters as well as other seafood. There are also a few pubs around that have some live music. A lot of people pass through here on their way to the popular islands of Koh Samui and Ko Pa Ngan.
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Stay at or near the Rajthani Hotel *** - in an excellent location in the centre of the city close to the bus station, the Mall and the Night Market, good cafe next door, 24 hour desk, bidet
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Tomorrow you will have to take a minivan to Krabi which you can book online or wander around the corner to the Pantip Office. They run every hour and a half starting at 9.00 until 16.30 and take 3 hours.
15 - 16 Krabi - 2N
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Next stop Krabi Town. It has a well developed travellers centre with cafes, backpacker accommodation, good value hotels and everything else that goes along with it. The hotel is close to Chao Fah Park which is a great place to walk around, look at the art and grab a coffee. It also host's one of the Night Market in the evenings. There is also the Krabi Urban Forest mangrove walk and the big mud crab sculpture. With mangroves and a big crab and a name like Krabi one would expect a few restaurants specialising in these delicious crustaceans. Don't worry something is coming up later. Give your calves a workout and climb the 1260 steps and vertical climb of 309 meters up to the Tiger Cave Temple where you will be rewarded with a stunning view all the way to the Andaman Sea. On weekends a "Walking Street" sets up with all forms of entertainment and eating and drinking. It's a fun place to hang out. On weekdays it is the Chao Fah Night Market that you'll be looking for.
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Stay at or near Krabi Riverview Hotel ** - great location with river views near the centre of town, the pier and the Night Market, tour desk, restaurant, ATM, cafe, free parking
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Hire yourself a motorbike and have a day trip to the colourful waters of the Emerald Pool (take the long path in), the Blue Pool and the therapeutic waters at the Hot Spring Waterfall. Don't forget your bathers. Head down to the riverside when you get back for a meal and a night out. Or Ruen Mai is a must try and would be a good stop off on the way back. Even though it's past town on the road to Ao Nang. It would cap off a beautiful day enjoying Mother Nature. Early dinner here then a bottle at the River Restaurant and Bar.
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Some restaurants and bars to keep an eye out for include Booze Bar (live music every night) - Arty Momma Rasta Bar - Buffalo Bar - Bamboo Bar - Krabi Walking Street - the River Restaurant & Bar - Factory Beer Garden and Krabi has some good value Dim Sum places so keep your eyes open.
17 - 18 aO Nang - 2N
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Make your way by ferry, long tailed boat or road to resort style Ao Nang beach. You should find a 3 or 4**** hotel with a pool at a good rate. Those rates double during the peak season from November to April but it is the best weather. While the beach might not be quite up to the standards you've been getting used to, but it's still pretty good and there are other reasons to be here. Eating - The Crab Company (as promised earlier - with a tasting menu) being one of them. As is the nightlife, shopping, spa and massage places, good seafood restaurants, mangrove kayaking adventure and a few more options of what to see and do. For sunset head to No Sunrise No Sunset, Art Biennale Pavilion and for sundowners and seafood head up the hill to Lae Lay Grill. Or for something really out of this world go to Bananas Bungalows for a swim in the bioluminescent plankton which are around between November and March around the full moon phase if you're lucky. See the markers map at the top of the page.
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Stay at or near Krabi Resort **** - excellent location in the centre of town on the beach 5 minute walk from where the long-tail boat drops you off, very good breakfast included, 2 swimming pools, beach and pool bar with Happy Hour, restaurant with sea views and themed dinner nights, seafood BBQ, traditional Thai decor, fitness centre, private beach area, bath tubs in most rooms, ATM, bidet, activities, tour desk, massage
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Days Inn by Wyndham Ao Nang Krabi *** - great location in the heart of Ao Nang 2 minutes from where the long-tail boat drops you off, close to the beach with sea views, outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, bar, massage, minimarket, spa, activities, tour desk
19 - 21 Railay Beach - 3N
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Hop aboard a long tailed boat to Railay Beach which will take 15 minutes. A lot of the day time visitors leave and go back to Ao Nang at sunset. Railay is on the mainland but you can only get here by boat. It is home to four sand beaches and two of them are as good as you would find anywhere in the world. It's pretty hard to go wrong with the beaches around here. With all of the limestone cliffs and outcrops around it is a world class rock climbing destination.
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Time to relax put the feet up, grab a book and enjoy some beach time. If you are feeling active there are viewpoints, hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, island trips, a penis temple, caves and rocks to climb. The sunsets on Railay Beach West are worth coming for on their own. Especially when accompanied by a Pina Colada. And in the morning you can get up and capture the sunrise at Railay Beach East. Maybe with an orange juice.
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It doesn't take long to walk to anywhere around here. If you want to stay on a beach Railay West, Tonsai and Pai Plong beaches are your options. Phra Nang beach is very expensive. It pays to book well ahead for accommodation here and keep an eye out for specials. You might be lucky and get one at half price on Railay Beach
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Railay Bay Resort & Spa **** - the best location on the beach at Railay West, 2 swimming pools (beachfront), sunset restaurant, cane and wood furnishings, spa and wellness centre, bar, ATM, activities, tour desk, minimarket
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Railay Princess Resort & Spa **** - Railay East, 3 swimming pools including rooftop infinity pool, fitness centre, Thai style furnishings, balcony, spa and wellness centre, restaurant, bar, very good breakfast included, ATM, activities, cafe, tour desk
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Railay Phutawan Resort *** - inland near Diamond Cave - 10 minute walk to Railay West beach (free tuk tuk shuttle), great location with stunning views, outdoor swimming pool with amazing views and poolside bar, rustic wooden furnishings with Thai accents, sun terrace and scenic landscaped gardens, restaurant, bar with sundowners, very good breakfast included, activities, tour desk
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Long Tailed Boats on Railay West Beach
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If you're looking for shops, restaurants and some after dinner excitement head down to Walking Street which connects Railay West to Railay East.
22 - 23 Ko Phi Phi Don - 2N
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There are two ferries a day to Ko Phi Phi Tonsai Pier which take 45 minutes to get there.
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Ko Phi Phi is one of Thailand's most impressive islands. It has something of the Siamese twins about it as if two islands are conjoined by a sandy isthmus. Because of this unusual geographic feature and the two bays it faces out to it suffered a double whammy during the 2004 Tsunami which destroyed the main building area on the island.
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There are actually two Ko Ph Phi's. Ko Phi Phi Don - the big inhabited one where you will be staying. The other on is Ko Phi Phi Leh the small uninhabited one that features Maya Bay the setting for the movie the Beach. It is a very popular boat trip.
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Maya Bay - Ko Phi Phi Leh
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The central bar area is mainly frequented by the backpacking bucket brigade but that shouldn't stop anyone experiencing this beautiful island paradise (apart from the negative effects of mass tourism and over development). You'll find plenty of options for where to stay, eat and party. Go for an island cruise to see Maya Bay and the natural beauty of this area. You can dive, snorkel, kayak , join a sunset cruise (with bioluminescent plankton), a booze cruise or even go rock climbing (perhaps not together). Make sure you climb up to the Viewpoint to watch the sunset and get the best view of the sandy connection which makes this island so special.
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Where to stay? Have a look at these places and see what you think. There is a lot of accommodation on the island to choose from. A main consideration is how quiet or busy you want it to be. The closer you are to the main village of Ton Sai the busier it will be. Also which beach you'd like to stay at should come into your thinking. They should provide free transfers to and from where the ferry arrives.
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Phi Phi Sunset Bay Resort ** - surrounded by tropical gardens, restaurant, quiet, beach front, bungalows with sunset sea views, free transport to the main beach
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Ibiza House Phi Phi *** - beachfront on the main beach, 2 swimming pools - 1 Ibiza party pool with DJ's 3 days per week 1pm - 9pm, 1 private pool, poolside bar and restaurant looking out to sea, boat trips and activities, variety of accommodation and prices, ATM, tour desk
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The Cobble Beach *** - outdoor infinity pool and deck looking out to sea and sun sets, restaurant , bar, good breakfast included, minimarket on site
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Phi Phi the Beach Resort *** - free transfers, has it's own quiet beach, outdoor swimming pool, sun loungers, beach bar with Happy Hour, restaurant, cafe with good buffet breakfasts included, balconies and ocean views, teak furnishings, traditional Thai massage, evening entertainment, themed dinners, activities, tour desk
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Paradise Pearl Bungalows - located on a quiet beach with great views and a beautiful garden, terrace, restaurant, ATM, tour desk, family owned
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You won't have any problems finding places to eat and drink where ever you stay.
24 - 28 Ko Lipe - 5N
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Your next stop is the southernmost island in Thailand, Ko Lipe. There are two ferries per day which both leave at 9.30 am and take 4 hours. These run from October 15th to May 10th. At other times of year you may have to go by road to Pak Barra Pier and take a ferry / speed boat from there. Start off nice and early to give yourself plenty of time to get there. Ko Lipe is open all year but between May and October the weather won't be so good.
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Ko Lipe is an island paradise which not that long ago was one of Thailand's best kept secrets. 25 percent of the world's tropical fish can be found here. You'd struggle to find better sand to lay on and better water to swim in. Or for that matter a place to learn how to dive - have a look in the tours below ⬇️.
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For such a little place there's a lot to do here but it wouldn't matter if you did nothing just lazing about enjoying the surroundings. Your conscience wouldn't bother you. You have five nights to really get into island mode. What time is it, what day is it, where am I, who cares etc etc. Or stay as long as you like.
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This place is well known of despite being off most peoples radar so it pays to book early. You have three main beaches to choose from Sunrise Beach, Sunset Beach and Pattaya Beach. I recommend Sunrise (Chao Ley Beach). There is a bright blue path known as Walking Street which connects Pattaya Beach and most of the way to Sunrise Beach. It is packed with shops, restaurants, bars and is a great place for people watching and night life. There is a quality food scene and enough bars that would befit a much larger destination. Stop in for smoothies at Madam Yoo Hoos, a local character and institution. It's a small island and easily walked.
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3 *** Beachfront bungalow resorts on Sunrise Beach from North to South -
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Lipe Beach Resort *** - very good breakfast included, Elephant Beach Bar & Restaurant, activities, tor desk, packed lunches, massage
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Wapi Resort - restaurant, free bikes, garden, tour desk, fabulous breakfast included, activities, massage
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Coco Beach Bungalows *** - restaurant, bar - Happy Hour, garden, activities, snack bar, tour desk, packed lunches, massage
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Castaway Resort Ko Lipe *** - restaurant - themed dinner nights, bar - Happy Hour, bidet, activities, snack bar, tour desk, massage, spa and wellness centre
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Sunset Beach - Ko Lipe
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29 Hat Yai - 1N
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If you want to continue travelling there is a ferry from Pattaya Beach to the Malaysian Island of Langkawi. There is an Immigration Office on Pattaya Beach too. Or take the ferry to Pak Barra Pier and make your way to Hat Yai. This is the largest city in the south and you can fly back to Bangkok, Malaysia or Singapore. Or you can take the train north to Bangkok or south to Penang. There plenty of things in Hat Yai to keep you entertained for a few days. It gets a lot of visitors from Singapore and Malaysia on the weekends which means plenty of shopping, eating, entertainment and booking ahead. Have a look at the marker map for pictures. There are many markets here so you'll be able to do your last minute gift shopping.
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Stay at or near the Sakol Hotel *** - town centre very close to Lee Garden Night Market and the Thumnoonvithi Road bars, skip the breakfast option as there are a lot of Dim Sum restaurants around.
WELCOME 2 SIAM - CENTRAL 21N
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HIGHLIGHTS - Bridges, Elephants & Pools
🚐**GOOD FOR A GROUP of 10 or less**🚐
Bangkok 3N
Kanchanaburi 2N
Sangkhlaburi 2N
Kanchanaburi 2N
Ayutthaya 2N
Si Racha 1N
Koh Chang 4N
Pattaya 3N = 21N
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Grand Palace
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Emerald Buddha
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Chinatown Tour
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Sky Bar
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Glamping
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Hellfire Pass
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3 Pagodas Pass
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Floating Raft house
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Full body Dr. Fish
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Longtailed Boat Ride
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Thai Heaven & Hell
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The Big Naga
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Stay in a POW Camp
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Ride a Water Buffalo
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Make Merit in Wang Kha
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Bridge on the River Kwai
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Hin Dat hot & cold water
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Ayutthaya Historical Park
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Ayutthaya Floating Market
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Have Sriracha in Si Racha
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The miraculous Floating Nun
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Rainforest down to the beach
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UNESCO 100 Year Old Market
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Four of the World's best swimming pools
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The World's biggest Three Headed Elephant
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The second longest hand made wooden bridge in the world
1 Bangkok - 3N
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Have everything booked before you leave especially if there's a group of you. The most important booking is your minivan and driver who picks you up in Kanchanaburi and drops you off 10 days later at Koh Chang. There are numerous places on the web, just be sure beforehand what you're paying for and how much it all is. With a group of you it's quite reasonable and the benefits make it a no brainer. An English speaking driver will really add to the experience. Being a local they know all of the good places and can teach you a lot about the culture. Leave all the worries to them and enjoy your holiday.
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Fly into Suvarnabhumi International Airport then take an official taxi / van to your hotel in the Banglamphu area near Khao San Road. I recommend you download the maps.me app to your phone and download the Thailand maps so you can use them to navigate while you are moving around. Also it pays to carry a photocopy of your passport around with you.
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Stay at or near the New Siam Riverside - anywhere in the Banglamphu area will be fine.
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Spend the rest of the afternoon / evening looking around the neighbourhood. You will find everything your heart could desire and quite a few things you didn't even know existed.
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Find a table in the street, order a beer or a bottle of Sang Som (Thai rum), coke, soda and ice bucket then just sit there and watch the world go by. Just about every demographic of the world is represented. If you're a Thai Boxing fan you could go to the nearby Rajadamnern Stadium which has bouts starting around 6.30 PM. It's only 2 km away so you could walk or take a tuk tuk.
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Off for a walking tour today to cross the major bucket list items off of your list.
Magic Pool - Hintok River Camp
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No rush to get up, you need to be at Sky Bar for 6pm opening and Sunset
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Head off at 10am and you should have plenty of time. The restaurant Krua Apsorn doesn't open until 10.30. Have a very light breakfast at the hotel.
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You will need long pants and shoes (men) to get in to Sky Bar ladies get away with being more casual but no flip flops. Zip off pants are a great idea.
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They will be handy for the Grand Palace too, although normally you can rent a sarong or happy pants.
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Watch out for pickpockets around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
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Make your way to the the 14 October 1973 Memorial - 500,000 people gathered here to protest the Three Tyrants
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Then down to the Democracy Monument - where it all began in 1932 and it has become a place for protesters to assemble
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Brunch at Krua Apsorn (Apsorn's Kitchen) a famous place to eat that uses recipes that were used in the palace to feed Royalty - (Stir fried crab in curry powder is highly recommended)
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The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) - hard to miss this one at 21 meters tall, at one time Louis Leonowens the son of Anna (as in the King and I) donated the teak for the swing)
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Next door is Wat (temple) Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworahawihan - is one of the oldest and most important temples - King Rama 8 is buried here
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Nuttaporn Ice cream - time for a cool break, they have local flavours and have been making ice cream pretty much since Bangkok has had it and use the finest mangoes money can buy
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Phraeng Phuton Square - next to Nuttaporn and has some classic old shops that are worth a look
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Bangkok City Pillar Shrine - this was the first building put up on this side of the river
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The Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawang) and the the Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) - which has had an interesting life with lots of travel. Read more about it here.
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Wat Pho - the home of the Reclining Buddha and Thai massage
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Museum Siam - an interactive and fun lesson in Thai history and Thai culture
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It must be time for a drink - make your way to the river and the Yodpiman ferry wharf and take an orange flagged ferry to the Oriental Pier (Don't worry the ticket lady will tell you which ferry to get on - just watch how the locals do it and follow suit - it's an adventure in itself plus you will have a pleasant cruise down the river as well
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Get off at the Oriental Hotel (Bangkok's first hotel and the best in the world for many years in a row) and have a look / drink. Or if you make time you could come here for traditional afternoon tea in the Authors Lounge. (12pm - 6pm) From here make your way to the Sky Bar at the Lebua State Tower - if you're a bit early there's plenty to see in this neighbourhood. The bar opens at 6 pm and it's good to be on time to see it in the light and the dark and the sun sets quickly in the tropics.
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Check the menu prices before you order. Some drinks aren't overly expensive but others certainly are. You only need to stay for one and you'll still have plenty of time to take in the incredible views from up here.
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If you want to continue drinking at much cheaper prices and still with a great view head down to Jack & X's Bar on the riverside. They do food here too.
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Now it's time for dinner and there are many choices. Charoen Krung Rd outside the front of the building has some famous places to eat - or you could take the complimentary ferry (get on just south of the main Sathon Pier) down to ASIATIQUE the Riverfront where you have eating, drinking and shopping in a recreated 1900's style - or you could catch the Sky Train (from Saphan Taksin station) down to Sukhumvit Rd for a night out (there is something for everyone). Or you could do the lot. Drinks at Jack's, dinner on Charoen Krung, a few hours at Asiatique then finish up at Sukhumvit.
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Catching a tuk tuk home and racing through the empty streets is one of the great joys of Bangkok. Don't forget to barter
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Sky Bar - atop the State Tower Bangkok
3
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Have another sleep in if you need it. You have another big day ahead. Time for some exercise to blow the cobwebs out. Or you could opt for a motorcycle taxi. You're off to Bang Krachao - the"Green Lungs of Bangkok" (a riverine island that will make you forget you are in the big city). It is the perfect place to cycle around and it has a number of attractions along the way. One of the highlights is riding along the elevated pathways through the mangrove forest and Green Road and Flower Street.
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If you go during the week you'll have it to yourself and most places will be open except the two following. If you go on the weekend you'll have lots of company and everything will be open including the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery and the Floating Market. Don't forget to take a hat and a copy of your passport.
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First of all you'll need to eat. You've probably noticed by now that eating is a national past time around here and you are never more than 10 meters away from food at any time. Just down the road is a place that's been there for over 80 years and it's called Karim Roti Mataba. The food is very good and very cheap. Stop in for a bite on your way to the Phra Athit ferry pier. Catch the ferry down to the main Sathon pier by the Thaksin bridge.
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From here take a taxi to the Klong Toey pier. Taxis are generally cheaper, safer, cooler and less hassle than tuk tuks. But nowhere near as much fun! Catch the boat across to Bang Krachao pier where you will see the bicycle rental shop. You'll need you passport copy and they will give you a map and a bottle of water. The bikes are reasonable and very cheap. The map isn't that good, either is google maps, so it's a good thing you downloaded maps.me.
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I would go in an anticlockwise direction. The two dots after the floating market towards the river are the Green Road and Flower Street. The Bangkok Tree House is a good place to stop for a beer on the roof.
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Once you're back across the river find yourself a taxi and go to the Klong Toei Metro Station. You want to head west and get off at the Hua Lamphong MRT station.
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From here walk to Wat Traimit to see the world's largest solid gold Buddha that was discovered by accident
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Enter Chinatown through the China Gate. Chinatown originally was where you were walking around yesterday but was moved here to make way for the Grand Palace. The main road here Yaowarat Rd was the first road in Thailand. The snaking road is said to represent a dragon and the China Gate is its head. It has had a colourful history. Chinatown is actually called Yaowarat. All of your senses will be challenged in this vibrant and colourful area.
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Stroll around - sit down - eat and drink. Seafood here is legendary and one of the most famous spots is the corner where the Lek & Rut (Red team) and T & K (Green team) Seafood Restaurants compete for customers.
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Catch a taxi or tuk tuk home when you've had enough
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4 - 5 Kanchanaburi - 2N
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Have a relaxed breakfast somewhere nice before you catch the train to Kanchanaburi the site of the Bridge over the River Kwai. You'll need to get a tuk tuk to Thonburi Train Station (it should look like this) on the other side of the river. This is Bangkok's 2nd train station so make sure they don't think you're going to the Thonburi BTS Skytrain Station or the new Bang Sue Grand Station. Also let them know you are going to Kanchanaburi. The train leaves at 13.55 pm and arrives at 16.24 pm. It's quite a pleasant trip and when you reach Nong Pla Duk Junction you'll be riding on the actual Burma Thailand railway line for the last hour and a half. Vendors come on the train and sell snacks. In a few days time you'll be riding it from the last station out Nam Tok (waterfall), back to the bridge.
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Get off at the River Kwai Bridge Station which is one after the town station. This town has been looking after tourists for a long time you'll find everything you need. It even went so far as to changing the name of the river to match the fictional account in the book and movie that drew all of the attention in the first place..
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Stay at or near the River Kwai View Hotel **** - excellent location with views of the bridge - close to attractions, shops, cafes, restaurants, bars and the market, try to get a balcony room overlooking the bridge, otherwise the restaurant has a good view of it, ATM, 24 hour desk, minimart, sometime in the next couple of days pick up a drink cooler / esky / chilly bin from the market across the road. It will need to fit in the van with you and your luggage and be easy to get to. It will cost around $10.
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Get around to all of the obvious sights today. Hiring a bicycle would be the best way to get around. Near the train station visit the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery (which is very well maintained) and the Death Railway Museum. The Jeath Museum in Wat Chai Chompon south of the centre of town was opened in 1977 and is the original. The one near the hotels is a bit of a rip off name thief place which gets poor reviews. (JEATH = Japan, England, America, Australia, Thailand and Holland - all the countries that were involved, except for our Kiwi mates, the Malays, Indians, Chinese and Burmese who were all tied up in this). Ride back and drop the bikes off.
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Have lunch by the Bridge at the Floating Raft Restaurant and go for a walk over it. You will likely see a train go over it for your photos. Go for a long-tail boat ride (can be booked at the restaurant) and visit a temple on a hill (Wat Tham Suea is a good one) and / or a cave and by the time you get back it'll be time for sun downers.
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Have a few beers in the evening along the bar strip. Have dinner at JJ Night Market by the cemetery you were at earlier today first. On Friday nights there is the Suk Jai Floating Market (not floating) along the river near Wat Thewa Sangkharam
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Van with Driver
Van - Disco Mode
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6 Hintok River Camp - 1N
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DAILY PROGRAMS - so you can brief the driver
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Breakfast
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Wat Tham Mangkornthong
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Hellfire Pass
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Hintok River Camp
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For the next ten days you will need your own transport. The best way is to hire a van with a driver or a car and driver if there's only a few of you. It takes out all of the hassle of travelling around, provides security for your gear, gives you flexibility to do and see what you want and you can't beat being driven home from the pub in your own disco van. At the top of each day you'll see a run down in maroon that you can use to let him know where you're going and what you'll be up to for the day.
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Your driver will pick you up and take you for breakfast. Don't forget your drinks cooler. It's worth paying extra for someone who speaks English because they come in handy in so many ways. And you can learn a lot about the culture from them. Plus it's a lot easier telling them where you are going next. Put the phone away and leave the navigation, traffic and parking hassles to them.
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After breakfast it's off to see the Floating Nun at Wat Tham Mangkornthong.
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On your way to the next stop get him to stop at a cheap roadside shop and fill up your new drinks cooler with alcoholic and non-alcoholic dinks and ice. Repeat daily. It's a real luxury and you can use it at the hotels too. Next destination is the impressive Australian Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre and Memorial and then go for a walk through Hellfire Pass. Because of the Speedo they had to work through the night by lamplight and it was thought to look like the fires of hell.
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You can actually walk all the way to your accommodation at the Hintok River Camp. Or you could hop in the van and be there in five minutes and take advantage of your time there. You'll be Glamping in a fancy tent enjoying a BBQ buffet for dinner and a great breakfast. There are all manner of things to see and do here, but by far the best is the natural stone pool above the river. Followed by sunset cocktails looking out over the river. In the morning you can go for a bike ride around the local villages among other things.
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Some of these days are short for the driver and may also be close to his home or friends where he can stay for free. You might be able to negotiate a discount because of this. Once he's dropped you off at the Hintok River Camp you can send him home early and get him to pick you up at checkout time tomorrow.
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Hintok River Camp
7 Sangkhlaburi - 2N
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Cheap drink shop
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Hin Dat Hot Springs
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Lunch
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Sangkhlaburi
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Samprasob Resort
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Dinner
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Get your driver to pick you up around 11am giving you plenty of time to enjoy the resort. First stop will be to restock the esky of course. Juice, lassi or an iced coffee to start the day is nice. Iced milk tea can't be beaten and Manao Soda is great for hangovers. Then pull up at the Hin Dat Hot Spring where you have three pools of differing temperatures next to a quickly flowing shallow cold stream. Pure heaven and it might cure your beriberi and rheumatism. They were accidentally discovered by the Japanese during WWll while building the Death Railway
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Hin Dat Hot Springs and Cool River
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Stop for lunch along the way by the river somewhere or maybe at 100 Curry Pots in Thong Pha Phum. Or let the driver pick somewhere.
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Continue on to the hidden gem (to foreigners, not Thais) that is Sangkhlaburi. The drive is spectacularly scenic and what is waiting for you at the end really is unique. It is two towns separated by a river and joined by the the second longest hand made wooden bridge in the world (U-Bein in Myanmar is the longest). It has been rebuilt after it was destroyed by wild weather in 2013 and really is an impressive sight. It is one of the most multicultural towns in Thailand with different Burmese refugees outnumbering the locals. Across the bridge is the Mon town of Wang Kha. People from here are known as .....? There is a wonderful hotel with an even better pool which looks over Uttamanusorn Bridge.
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Hand made Uttamanusorn Bridge
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Stay at the Sam Prasob Resort - best location in town, outdoor swimming pool with fabulous views over the water and bridge to Wang Kha, same views from the restaurant
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Have a stroll across the bridge, look around then head for the pool. Get your driver to take you somewhere nice by the water for dinner. P Guest House is a pretty spot with nice views. Don't stay up too late you've got an early start in the morning.
Pool with a view - Sam Prasob Resort
8
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Three Pagoda Pass
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Ban Songkaria Resting Restaurants
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Every morning all over Thailand and other Buddhist countries the ritual of Tak Bat takes place. This involves Monks leaving the temples with their bats (bowls) and allowing the alms givers to donate anything (usually cooked food) into the bowl so they can make merit for themselves and get a blessing from the Monk. Numerous vendors sell ready made packages so you don't need to buy any until you see the monks coming out. Otherwise you might have to hang on to it for two hours. Picture a line of Monks walking across the wooden bridge against the backdrop of the sunrise over the misty mirror like water. Sounds magical doesn't it. I've seen pictures and it looks amazing. Not quite what we saw but just remember Thailand is a land of surprises.
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Have a Mon breakfast at the market and look around Wang Kha. Head out to the Myanmar border at Three Pagodas Pass. At the moment you can't cross over but that could change in the future. There is a market that's worth a visit. You can refill the esky with duty free booze and stock up for the rest of the trip. Don't worry they'll deliver them to your van on a sack truck for dollar or two. Burmese cheroots are worth checking out even for reformed smokers. This is quite a famous place and a lot has happened here over the years. Invasion and Buddhism came through here. The most recent incursion was only a little over twenty years ago. This is also where the Thai - Burma railroad crossed over and there are still some tracks in place.
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On the way home is the Ban Songkaria Resting Restaurants. A Thai invention I think. Bungalows are built over a rapidly flowing river where you can dangle your feet in the cold water or go the whole tube. They serve Isaan (north east) food like Som Tam (spicy green papaya salad) and sticky rice. It's probably a great place for hangovers. If you're hungry this would be a good spot for lunch. If you're thirsty I'm sure they will get drinks for you. There are at least 5 restaurants with multiple rafts. You will see them on the left hand side on your way back as you cross the bridge.
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When you get back a good thing to do is a boat trip out to the sunken temple which is particularly nice at sunset. Pick a nice restaurant in town for dinner or ask your driver where you can get some Burmese and Mon food.
9 Floating Jungle Raft - 1N (2 Options)
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OPTION 1 - Onsens and Swimming Pools - 1 River Kwai Village (Resort & Onsen)
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Back down one of Thailand's most scenic roads to the River Kwai Village **** (Resort & Onsen). Settle in and enjoy your riverside setting and bemoan the fact you're only here for one night. Take the hotel boat down river to the Rock Valley Hot Spring and Fish Spa which is the onsen part of the hotel. Treat yourself to an afternoon trying everything that's on offer and you shouldn't have anymore problems with Beriberi. I recommend the Fish Spas. Dinner and drinks back at the hotel. There is a modern hotel with swimming pools up on the bank and floating rafts in the river.
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OPTION 2 - Back to Nature - 1 River Kwai Jungle Rafts
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River Kwai Jungle Rafts **** - a more laid back remotely located award winning eco-resort that doesn't have electricity. If you're here in the high season and out on the river it shouldn't get too hot. There are all sorts of activities on the water, massage, breakfast, dinner, cultural shows are included and there is a floating Jungle Bar. Don't forget the bug spray
10 Kanchanaburi - 2N
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Erawan Waterfall
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Drop off - Nam Tok Train Station
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Pick Up - River Kwai Bridge Station
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U Inchantree Kanchanaburi
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The stop off today is at the seven tiered Erawan Water Falls named after the three headed white elephant in Hindu mythology who was the vehicle for the god Indra. Also known as Airavata, the king of elephants. The top tier is thought to look like him. It is one of Thailand's most beautiful waterfalls. Sometimes Erawan is portrayed with 33 heads. If you're having trouble picturing a 33 headed elephant join the club. A quick google will show you how it's done. This place is very popular with Thais who love a picnic. If you enjoyed the Dr. Fish experience at Rock Valley you're going to love this one. Big fish chewing you all over. Pure heaven (at Wang Mat Cha Waterfall #2). There are plenty of facilities for food, shopping and ice creams here.
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It's the end of the line, Nam Tok (Waterfall) Station. That's where you'll get dropped off at to catch the 15.15pm train back to town coming from the other direction as you did the other day. Just buy a ticket from the conductor. It's very scenic and a big hit with the tourists. Sit on the right hand side for the best views. And this time you will travel across the Bridge on the River Kwai. You may feel like a celebrity with big crowds waiting at the bridge for you to arrive. Get your driver to meet you at the bridge station for your transfer to the new hotel.
Nam Tok to Kanchanaburi section of the Thai / Burma Railroad
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Stay at or near U Inchantree Kanchanaburi **** - excellent location on a river bend 5 minutes walk from the bridge, free bikes, river sunset views, outdoor pool, landscaped gardens, certified library, restaurant with river views, bar - sunset terrace lounge, tour desk, rain showers, superb breakfast included, bidet, spa and wellness centre, tour desk, fitness centre
11
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Drop off at - Elephants World / Shops / Golf / Spa / Where ever
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Pick up from - Elephants World / Shops / Golf / Spa / Where ever
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Free day today. An intermission of sorts. You could laze around the pool reading a book. One suggestion is for the ladies to go shopping or have a spa day and the gentlemen to have a round of golf at a course with a replica Bridge on the River Kwai. All meet up later for dinner and drinks. Of course some of the ladies might like to play golf and some of the gents might like a spa day. Another option would be a day spent helping out with the pachyderms at Elephants World. Remember your driver still has the meter running so make use of him.
12 Ayutthaya - 2N
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The Land of Hell - Wat Phai Rong Wua
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The Big Naga - Dragon Descendants Museum
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UNESCO Sam Chuk 100 Year Old Market for lunch
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Thai Buffalo Conservation Village
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Ayutthaya
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A lot to get through today so get an early start and keep things moving. First up you're going to Hell. Thai Hell in fact and oddly enough many people remember this as one of the highlights of their trip. Then there is the Dragon Descendants Museum to visit on your way to the UNESCO 100 year old Sam Chuk Market.
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Wat Phai Rong Wua's depiction of Hell
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A century ago this was a busy trading centre when most goods were moved around on canals and rivers. New roads put an end to this commerce and the locals had to find another way to make ends meet. So they turned their neighbourhood into a market. They live upstairs and downstairs is their shop. It's a great place to eat with many specialties you won't find elsewhere so plan to have lunch here. You'll need at least a couple of hours to get around this fun market. Now you need to get to the Thai Buffalo Conservation Village by show time - which is 3.30 pm weekdays and 2.30 or 4.00pm on weekends. Water Buffaloes were the tractors of Asia and are still held in high regard. You probably haven't seen a show like this before.
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Finally you're on your last leg of the day to Ayutthaya, Thailand's previous capital before Bangkok. At one stage in history this was a magnificent cosmopolitan city and London was just a sleepy little backwater. The Burmese put an end to that and these days to see the old ruins and new city mingled in together is quite a sight. The ruins are lit up at night and it is quite magical so a night tour could be on your agenda (maybe tomorrow night). So could the night market. After a big day you might just want to stay around the bars in your area tonight.
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Stay at or near Tony's Place Bed & Breakfast - not on Booking.com, try to get something here or anywhere near, as it is on Naresaun Soi 2 (known as Soi Farang or foreigner street). Which means it has bars and night life around it. The other option for night life is on the other side of town at Grand Street which is a sort of a red light area and you may feel more comfortable here. Tony's has a pool, garden and a great area to sit around having a few drinks. I highly recommend the Kiwi Soda (in the Italian Sodas section).
13
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Ayutthaya Floating Village
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Temple Tour Ayutthaya
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Afternoon
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Dinner
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Drinks
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Get your driver to take you to the Ayutthaya Floating Village for lunch. You can spend a good few hours here. Make sure you catch the cultural show which is a depiction of one of the local heroines. Done as only the Thais can. It's fantastic. Get your driver to take you on a tour of some of the more significant temples. Then there are elephants, river trips or the Bang Pa In Palace to help fill in your day. Find a nice riverside restaurant for sunset drinks and dinner. If you feel like kicking on head out to the New Cowboy Bar in the Grand Market neighbourhood. It's a popular area with locals but you wont see many tourists.
14 Si Racha - 1N
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Erawan Museum
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And / Or Muang Boran - Ancient City
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Si Racha - Seaview Hotel - on the elevated highway
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Mum Arroy (Delicious Corner) - Seafood Restaurant for dinner
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OPTION 1 - You'll not only get to see that three headed elephant today you'll be travelling up through his body when you stop at the Erawan Museum. This isn't your average museum. It is 44 meters high and it has a lift in one of it's legs. It has three levels representing the Underworld, the centre of the Universe and Heaven. It contains priceless artifacts and the entire museum is spectacular and dazzling. It's also a good place to have lunch.
A couple of Blondes
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Erewan the three headed elephant
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OPTION 2 - A creation from the same brain is Muang Boran or Ancient City. This place is 300 acres big and you'll need to spend a good part of the day here to do it any justice. It's the world's largest private outdoor museum. It is in the shape of Thailand and divided up the same way with the North, Northeast (Isaan), Central and Southern Regions. There are different ways to get around, a lot to see and some good lunch options. You can get a combo ticket if you do the Erawan Museum and the Ancient City. It's a lot to take on and you'll need an early start.
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It shouldn't take too long to get to Si Racha. Get your driver to take the six lane elevated freeway for 100 kms. Si Racha is where Sriracha sauce was invented. The most famous one is made by Huy Fong Foods a company started by a Vietnamese refugee named David Tran in California. He registered the trademark for the Rooster logo and the distinctive cap but never the name sriracha. This has meant that their are many other brands of sriracha on the market. Some of them have tried to register the name but have been unsuccessful. The original sauce was invented in the 1930's by a Thai housewife from Si Racha named Thanom Chakkapak. Her recipe is sold as Sriraja Panich and is thinner and sweeter than Huy Fongs Foods.
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There is a wonderful old hotel here on the waterfront with the best views around. So old in fact it doesn't have a lift. No problem though as the energetic girls behind reception will cheerily get your luggage up and down to your room. There are several excellent seafood restaurants nearby and a Night Market with some nearby bars and night clubs.
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Stay at the Seaview Sriracha Hotel - great location in the centre of town with magic sunset and sea views, restaurant, bar, terrace. free parking, 24 hour desk, tour desk, bidet, mini market
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Spectacular Sunset - Si Racha
15 - 18 Koh Chang - 4N
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Chanthaburi - Lunch
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Chanthuburi Market - Pepper
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Laem Ngop - Ferry Pier
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Koh Chang
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Last day in the van today as you drive to Koh Chang (Elephant Island). Stop for lunch in the gem trading town of Chanthaburi. You could get a nice lunch by the water at Moon River by Phuengluang Riverside. It is only 90km by road to Pailin the last refuge of the Khmer Rouge. They survived their final years controlling the town's gem trade and many of them still remain.
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While you're here go to the market and buy lots of the most expensive pepper corns you can find. This area is where the best pepper in Thailand is grown. Over in Cambodia Kampot is where the best pepper in the world is grown and on the nearby Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc is where the best Vietnamese pepper is grown. In the olden days they were willing to pay a kings / queens ransom for pepper this good.
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Go to the Ao Thammachat ferry pier and get your driver to take you over to the island on the car ferry and then take you to your hotel. The ferries run around every 45 minutes. There is a transport mafia waiting for the boats that charge outrageous prices when you arrive and there are no alternatives. Except yours. If there are eight of you it works out to be quite a difference. Remember that when you're giving the driver his tip.
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If you can lash out a bit on the hotel it's worth it. Something nice on the beach front with a swim up bar would be good. There are around 9 beaches to choose from along the western side of the island. They have different levels of development so pick something that sounds like your idea of an island getaway.
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The island has an interesting history and once hosted a naval battle with the French. Back in the noughties when Thaksin was in power he was going to turn Koh Chang into the Phuket of the east so a fair bit of development happened. Which means there are some high end places around.
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Still Koh Chang remains a beautiful island with breathtaking mountains covered in rainforest going all the way down to idyllic beaches. Time to unwind take it easy and enjoy a nice beach holiday after all of you adventures. Every possible tourist activity is catered for here. It's worth getting some transport and exploring the rest of the island. Don't miss Bang Bao fishing village at the south western end of the island. Do a little or do a lot. The choice is yours. If you're lucky you might get a nice big storm or two while you're sitting in a bar looking out to sea.
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Pick the beach you want and try to find yourself an upmarket bargain. You wouldn't be disappointed at the Kacha Resort & Spa Koh Chang **** - excellent location on White Beach, beachfront, swim up pool bar in beachside pool, happy hour, live music, sunset views, very good breakfast buffet included, 2 outdoor pools, 2 restaurants, beach bar, Majesty Spa, Beach BBQ
White Sand Beach - Koh Chang
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19 - 21 Pattaya - 3N
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If you're in a group you should be able to get a van to pick you up at your hotel, take you across the ferry and all the way to your hotel in Pattaya for a reasonable price.
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Have a look at these hotels, all have swimming pools, are near a good part of the beach, close to restaurants and are good value - LK the Empress **** - Serenotel Pattaya *** - Flipper Lodge Hotel *** - The Bayview Hotel **** - Hotel Baraquda Pattaya *****
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Last stop Pattaya. Once a quiet little fishing village until a few GI's from the Vietnam war thought it might be a nice place for some R & R. Pattaya gets a bad rap from most Travel Guides and always has. I wonder if some of the writers have actually been there. The truth is it's great value, you can meet a lot of interesting people here and have a lot of fun.
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It has the world's best public transport system called the Baht Bus. All you need to know is it -
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Costs 10 baht per person - have the right change ready
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Runs 24 / 7 with an average waiting time of 10 seconds
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Goes south along the beach to Walking Street and north along Pattaya #2 road to North Pattaya Road - everything you will ever need is in this rectangle
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Just step to the side of the road and when you see one that has plenty of room in the back make a subtle wave palm down without making eye contact
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Just before you reach your destination press the buzzer, when the vehicle is stopped go to the passenger side window and hand over the money
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They are also very cheap to charter especially if there is a group of you who want to go somewhere close or far or even out to one of the golf courses
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Pattaya is a shopper's paradise (good for those last minute souvenirs and presents). It's a diver's paradise. It's a foodie's paradise (have a wander around the basement and top 2 floors of Central Festival). It's a golfer's paradise. It's an alcoholic's paradise. There are all manner of theme parks and shows. If you went to both the Erawan Museum and the Ancient City you can round out the trinity with a visit here to the Sanctuary of Truth Museum. There are a million things to do here so enjoy yourself. And it's convenient for the airport. You'll find taxi stands scattered around Pattaya or just get your hotel to organise one. Give yourself an hour and a half to get there.
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Pattaya Bay - by Night
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As you still have another couple of months or so on your visa you could grab a cheap flight and check out another part of the country. Maybe one of the ones above.
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