Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Imperial Route
Japan
Asia
Photo by Susann Schuster on Unsplash
Photo by Tom Vining on Unsplash
Official Website
Insurance
Flights
Marker Map
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Vital Statistics
70 km - 7 Days including 2 days with not a lot of walking. Start walking in Takijiri and finish in Nachisan. If you want some assistance with the organising but still want to be self -guided
When
The trails are open all year round. March and April are very popular for Cherry Blossom season. Book well ahead. May to September give you summers heat plus more daylight hours for walking. October and November offer the bright colours of autumn and fewer numbers. December to February could include some snow and are for experienced trekkers.
Most accommodation is closed from Christmas to mid January
Highlights & Scenery
Hot Springs at Yunomine Onsen. The three grand shrines including the spectacular UNESCO listed Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, Kumano Nachi Taisha (with the Nachi-taki waterfall in the background) and Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
Soaking in a hot bath or onsen at the end of a hard day's walking. Or even an easy day's walking.
You will be walking through dense forest, bamboo forests, low shrubland, crossing streams, going through traditional Japanese villages through the mountains of Wakayama and all of it very authentic. The scenery is beautiful at every turn.
Before & After
Spend a few days in Osaka to get orientated and a few at the end to relax. Plenty to see and do here. Don't miss a night (or two) out at the bars, restaurants and cafe's of Dotonbori. You can leave your main pack here and stay at the same hotel when you come back. Everything is very close to the train station making getting around a breeze.
TANABE
Spend a night or two in Tanabe to visit the outdoor onsen by Shirahama Beach - one of the best in western Japan. There is also a good entertainment area in Tanabe near the train station near your hotel. You also have a few jobs at the Tourist Information Centre here.
If you are an early riser you might want to check out the lively raw tuna market. The largest in Japan. A boat cruise around the bay would be nice and try out as many outdoor onsen as you can.
You could walk the Nakasendo Way after resting the legs for a few days.
Start & Finish
Tanabe to Katsuura across the Kii Peninsula in the most southerly part of Honshu the main island of Japan
Fun Facts
It is one of two UNESCO World heritage Listed walks. The other is the Camino de Santiago
If you complete both you can become a "Dual Pilgrim" (you only need to do the last 100 kms to get accredited for the Camino De Santiago)
You can get your stamp book at the Tanabe Tourist Information Centre as well as numerous other places (see the official website below)
You will find stamps located in wooden stands at most sites along the way and teahouses. Don't forget to close the ink pad when you are finished
The completion stamp is the one at the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, stamp this on the first page under Completion Of Pilgrimage
A mythical 3 legged crow is the symbol of the Kumano Kodo as well as the National soccer team
Transport
Get yourself a Japan Rail Pass which you'll need to get outside the country.
Yo will catch some public buses on certain parts of the route to cut down on daily distances
If you arrive in Tokyo take the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Osaka.
If you fly in and out of Kansai International Airport you can take trains to Osaka and Tanabe and use public buses for the rest of the trip. You will find more details in the About section.
Accommodation
You will be staying in traditional Japanese guesthouses known as Ryokan and Minishukus.
Osaka - all close to the train station and Dotonbori
Fourz Hotel Kintetsu Osaka-Namba
APA Hotel Namba-Shinsaibashi ***
Tanabe
Close to the train station which has the Tourist Information Centre and is close to the Ajijoji Entertainment district with more than 200 establishments packed into less than a square kilometer of narrow streets. It is west of the station.
If you need any help with bookings you can go through
If you don't like these suggestions see what you can find with them
Takijiri
Kodo-no-Mori Anchan 民宿 古道の杜あんちゃん
Takahara
Mountain views, garden, terrace and a bar. Coffee shop, breakfast and dinner included and lunch boxes available. Shared lounge area.
Chikatsuyu
Riverside (have a swim or try some fishing) and the only guesthouse in Nakahechicho that has it's own hot spring, 3 meals, washing machines and dryers.
Hongu
Clost to everything including the Shrine, snacks and drinks including beer, self catering kitchen, rooftop patio, washing machine and dryer, bento boxes, will pick up and drop off at the trail, a number of hot springs nearby.
Good location and cheap, bunks in dorms, 50 m from the shrine, large well equipped kitchen and eating area, close to bus stops.
Yunomine
J-Hoppers Kumano Yunomine Guesthouse *
2 indoor and 1 outdoor hot spring baths, Japanese style with shared bathroom.
Koguchi - Options are very limited so get in very early
Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner - limited to 2 groups or 3 people per day.
13 rooms plus camping, cooking facilities.
If you can't get in here try to organise something with
You may need to transfer to a nearby village for the night.
Nachisan
Is the only place in town so if you can't get a booking here you will have to catch a bus down to Katsuura and have an extra night there. The bus takes 24 minutes.
Katsuura
Feel like a relaxing soak after your big walk. This place has a subterranean hot spring fed cavern with wondrous views over the Pacific Ocean.
4 minute walk from the train station, hotspring bath, massage (extra).
Organise
You will need to get your bookings on the trail done very early as it can get booked out.
Download Maps.me and Google maps and download the relevent maps so that it works without wifi. Also Google translate with Japanese is handy to have. Here are some other
You should tell someone that you are walking and when you should arrive. Your hotel bookings should cover this. Check at the Information Centre in Tanabe.
Go to the Tanabe Tourist Information Centre and register. It's next to the railway station near where you are staying. Also get the appropriate maps and the stamp book that will give you accreditation for the pilgrimage. Also find out how to catch the bus to Takijiri and if there are any trail closures or detours.
Packing List
Lightweight well worn in hiking boots
Cell phone and charger
Small lightweight pack with waterproof cover
Dry pack for your valuables
Maps - available at the Information Centres
Collapsible umbrella
Walking poles could be handy
LED Headlamp
Mosquito spray
Wet weather gear
First Aid Kit
Blister Kit (lots of vaseline rubbed all over your feet and anywhere that rubs, works wonders)
Water bottle and a hydration bladder that fits in your pack and feeds through a tube means you drink more often
Hat, sunscreen, sunglasses
Good socks
high energy snacks
If it's going to be cold you'll need some warm clothes
Visas
Flights
Osaka Kansai International Airport (KIX)
Has direct flights to 63 destinations in 22 countries - including Cairns in Australia, LA, San Fransisco and Vancouver on the west coast plus Honululu, parts of Europe and the Emirates as well as numerous parts of Asia. It would be easiest to fly in and out of here.
Tokyo Narita International Airport (NRT)
Has direct flights to 114 destinations in 41 countries including numerous places in North America, Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, the South Pacific, the Emirates, Cairo and Tel Aviv. If you arrive here catch the bullet train to Osaka. If you arrive late spend the night at a hotel near the airport.
Has direct flight from 106 destinations in 25 countries including North America, Europe, Asia, Australia and the Emirates. Same directions as above.
About
DAY 1 - Takijiri to Takahara - 4.5 Kms - 2 hours
Wake up in Takijiri, ablute, have breakfast, grab your lunch and head off. There is an information centre near the guesthouse you may want to have checked out yesterday when you arrived. If you can't get a room here or you'd rather spend another night in Tanabe, get up early and catch the bus here to start your trip.
DAY 2 - Takahara to Chikatsuyu - 10 kms - 6 hours + bus time
You will be able to get a coffee, ice cream and stack up on snacks along the way at the michi-no-eki rest stop along the way.
DAY 3 - Chikatsuyu to Hongu - 24 km - 8.5 hours or local bus
There is a boat from Hongu to the coast if you've had enough walking. There are a few hot springs around Hongu to revive your weary muscles.
DAY 4 - Hongu to Yunomine - 4 km - 1 hour - onsens and rest
It's a sort of a day off today. Visit the first of the 3 great Shinto shrines at Hongu, the Heritage Centre and Oyunohara to see the largest Torii Gate in the world . When you're ready make your way to enjoy the healing waters of Yunomine Onsen where you will spend the night. When you arrive reserve a spot in the 1,000 year old Tsubu-yu UNESCO listed hot spring in the middle of town. The ticket booth is next to the temple. Pilgrims used to purify themselves in the water here many years ago.
DAY 5 Yunomine to Koguchi - 13 kms - 5 hours - can use some public transport - down hill
Catch the bus to Ukegawa. There is one at 8.30 am and it only takes 13 minutes to get there. From here it's about a 5 hour walk to Koguchi. There are several swimming options if you arrive in the summer months.
DAY 6 Kogochi to Nachisan - 14 kms - 8 hours
Visit the second great shrine of your pilgrimage and the tallest waterfall in Japan. If you don't have a booking here you'll need to catch the bus down to the coastal fishing port of Katsuura. It takes 24 minutes.
DAY 7 Nachisan to Katsuura - 20 kms - 4 hours - or bus
Walk down to your Onsen Resort and drop your gear off. You may even want a soak and to freshen up. When you're ready catch the bus to Shingu to cross the last major shrine off of your list.
Fitness Level
Intermediate - there are a lot of ups and downs and potentially some slippery surfaces. Distances aren't huge so take your time and you should be fine. Get yourself fit before you start. The trail is often not that far from civilisation so there are bus options which can ease the load. Also there is a boat from Hongu to Shingu which would cut a couple of days walking, but you'd miss some of the best bits.
Tips
The trail is very popular so you will be walking with a lot of other pilgrims
The trail is very well signposted
Learn some Onsen Etiquette
Get in shape before you go
Carry as light a pack as possible
There are luggage service companies that will transport your gear to points along the route
Carry plenty of cash in small denominations
Bins on the trail are for locals only - take some plastic bags with you for your lunch box which you can dump at your next guesthouse
Safety
It's much safer and a lot more fun to have a walking companion or even a small group of you
Ask you accommodation what the expected weather conditions are for the day
Leave early when the days are short
Footing on roots and cobblestones can be slippery when wet
Eat & Drink
Traditional meals at your accommodation. They are happy to make you a Bento Box for lunch for the next day's walking. You're never that far from civilasation so you'll find plenty of shops in the villages.
Flora & Fauna
Bamboo Forests, Dense tall forests, low shrubs, Maple trees, Cypress trees, giant Cedar trees, wild azalea and Pine trees.
Butterflies, Japanese freshwater crabs, Toads, Japanese pit vipers, Giant Centipedes, Lizards, Skinks, Japanese squirrels, Tanuki (like a raccoon dog), wild boar, Japanese giant hornet and Black kites.
History
Originally the trail was used as a pilgrimage trail to reach the three sacred temples of Kumano Sanzan from Kyoto. It has been used since 794 AD and these spiritual journeys would take 30 - 40 days to complete.
Books & Movies
Japan's Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage: The UNESCO World Heritage trek
The Great Way - documentary on why people walk some of the world's great walks
Official Website
It has all sorts of useful information such as bus timetables, a restaurant guide and how to videos.
Souvenirs
Omiyage - edible souvenirs
Maps and stamps in your Dual Pilgrim book.
Three legged crow amulets
Extra
See Kanamara Matsuri Penis Festival in 'Festivals'.
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