Itinerary -

1. Bangkok 2N - 

2. Nakhon Phanom 2N - 

3. Thakhek  2N - 

4. Nakai 1N - 

5. Nam Theun 2N - 

6. Na Hin 1N - 

7. Ban Tiou 3N - 

8. Na Hin 1N - 

9. Thakhek 2N - 

10. Nakhon Phanom 4N - 

11. Lat Krabang 1N = 21N

Skill Level -

A reasonable level of competency would be good. It's not that difficult but there are a lot of little traps and pitfalls that can trip up an inexperienced rider. Things like potholes, loose gravel on corners, fallen rocks, kamikaze animals from chickens to water buffaloes and crazy bus and truck drivers. And inexperienced motorbike riders. They have quite a few accidents around here so be careful. The main road is sealed all of the way around but some of the side roads leading to attractions can be challenging.

When -

October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain.

This trip is timed to coincide with the Lai Ruea Fai Festival (Fireboat or Illuminated Boat Procession) in Nakhom Phanom. Like most Thai festivals the dates are set according to the lunar calendar which changes every year. So when you pin them down book your hotel immediately. Normally it is towards the end of October.

The festival lasts for 9 days and includes Dragon boat races, street fairs, local food, music, cultural performances and of course the main event - the Fireboats. The last two days are the most exciting so time your trip to be around then.

Click here to find out more about the festival.

Famous -

UNESCO candidate - Wat Phra That Phanom - famous pilgrimage site.

Highlights -

• Illuminated boats - Lai Ruea Fai Festival

• The natural wonders of central Laos

• Karst Topography - some of the best scenery in Laos - Jungles - Mountains - Drowned Forests

• Caves - Elephant - Buddha - Dragon

• The Drowned Forest

• Buddhas carved into the road side rocks

• Cool Pool - turquoise spring water

• Bomb Boats - cruise on a missile (Fuel tank actually)

• Phu Man the Rock Viewpoint - Stunning views of the Limestone forest and Reastaurant

• Konglor Cave - the highlight of the Loop

• Waterfalls and swimming holes

Getting there -

Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) -

Fly in and out of Bangkok Airport. At the moment the only flight to Nakhon Phanom Airport is from DMK. Spend a couple of nights in Bangkok on arrival then just make your to the old airport north of the city.

On return there is a last night in a nice hotel in the Lat Krabang area around Suvarnabhumi Airport. Just jump on the inter airport shuttle from DMK when you arrive there. You'll be nice and relaxed for your flight out the next day. 10 minutes away by free shuttle.

Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) -

This is Bangkok's old airport and a lot of cheap domestic flights operate out of here. If you are flying out of here make sure your taxi driver knows which airport you're going to. 

If you fly back here there is a free shuttle bus between the 2 airports that runs often and takes an hour or two depending on traffic. Your hotel will pick you up at the other end for free.

Nakhon Phanom Airport (KOP) -

Fly in and out of this pleasant little rural airport. There is a bus into town that will drop you off at your hotel.

Check here for airfares.

Budget -

Low - very cheap for everything and you can't spend money while you're riding. Great value hotels. So you'll be able to have the odd splurge :-)

Pack -

• Light is usually best. You can leave your main pack at your accommodation so make sure you have a day pack big enough to keep you going for a week. You can wash your "smalls" in the shower as you go and wear the same smelly clothes on the bike each day. Because no one will be able to smell you as you ride along. Wear your "good clothes" out at night time.

• Take a good head lamp for the caves.

• Warm but light things such as thermal long johns and vest, gloves, hat and some light waterproof items. Those thick plastic garden bags are good for putting your pack in to keep it dry.

• Octopus straps to secure your daypack. It's not much fun carrying it on your back all day. If you do have to lengthen the straps so that the seat takes the weight.

• Crocs are great all rounders for caves, waterfalls, jungle trekking, slipping on and off outside temples & houses and wet slippery surfaces

• A dry bag could come in handy for your valuables in some of the caves and other places you might want to keep your camera dry

Visas -

Thailand -

Grants most countries a month on arrival. When you cross back into Thailand some countries get 2 weeks as it is a land border and others get another month. If you want to spend more time in Thailand get a 2 month double entry tourist visa before you go.

Click here to double check everything.

Laos -

A 30 day visa on arrival is easy to get at the border. Just catch a bus from Nakhon Phanom to the third Thai - Lao Friendship Bridge located at Ban Hom. You will need US $37 (Must be US cash and it always pays to keep them in mint condition) and a passport photo.

Starting Town -

Thakhek -

The town was founded in the early 1900's by the French as a colonial trading post. It has French colonial buildings and Chinese shop houses. Situated on the Mekong River and surrounded with great scenery it is blessed with fantastic views. Stay in a lovely colonial boutique hotel with a riverfront terrace restaurant and bar.

Have 2 nights here before and after the trip. That will give you plenty of time to organise the bikes and wind down when it's all over. Dont miss the sunsets on the Mekong and the riverside Night Market.

Rental -

Mad Monkey Motorbike - 

good bikes and information and close to the hotel - pick up a map

Wang Wang Motor rental - 

good bikes and offer roadside assistance - with cheaper prices

Mr Ku - who is credited with establishing the Loop - located at the Thakhek Travel Lodge which has a famous log book. 

Look over the bike, take photos of any damage and make the owner aware of them before you hire.

Get a good helmet, preferably with a clear visor which is very important if it rains.

Stay -

Bangkok -

New Siam Riverside *** - 

with a pool, by the river

Nakhon Phanom -

The River Hotel **** - 

fantastic service and an international view from your bathroom

Thakhek -

le bouton d'or boutique hotel *** - 

great location with a restaurant by the Mekong for wonderful sunsets

Nakai -

Sunset Resort & Restaurant Nakai

Thalang -

Phosy Thalang Laos - 

Riverside on stilts with a BBQ

If you want to experience a Home stay they are available in the village. Just look for the blue signs.

Na Hin -

Sanhak Guesthouse *** - excellent restaurant

Ban Tiou -

SpringRiver Resort ** - pure magic, go for the river view

Na Hin -

Sainamhai Resort **** - 

riverside with a great restaurant

Lat Krabang -

Suvarnabhumi Suite Hotel **** - 

great value, 10 minutes to the airport on free shuttle, swimming pool, rooftop garden, restaurant and bar with live music, fitness centre and sauna, 5 minute walk to Suvarnabhumi Flea Market, street food, restaurants and clubs.

About -

This trip goes at a pretty relaxing pace with plenty of time to stop and enjoy your surroundings. As they say Lao PDR stands for Please Don't Rush.

Fly in and out of Bangkok and stay on the river near the Khao San Road area. It has everything you could ever need and a whole lot more. It is also close to the major attractions and very covenient for the ferries.

Spend a few nights in Nakhon Phanom. You can either time your trip for the Fireboat Festival to be  the start or end of your holiday. Or skip altogether it if it doesn't fit into your plans. It's a great little town and the wonderful scenery across the river will whet your anticipation for what is to come. You'll be coming back here on the way back as well so have a longer stay when the festival is on. If you can leave the festival for the end of the trip it would be a good way to finish things on a high.

Cross over to Thakhek, stay by the river, spend a couple of nights, organise your bike and take the it out for a decent test ride. You could visit some of the caves and swimming holes marked for day one and save some time when you are on the loop. 

The Pa Seuam Cave is a 3 km river cave where you can kayak through as a part of a 3 hour tour. It's near the Buddha Cave. Tham Nang Aen Cave (Biggest and most developed - coloured lights and underground boat tour which takes 2 hours). A visit to these two would fill in your day and it wouldn't be feasible to spend this much time at one attraction on the ride. So one of these would be a good option on your test ride.

DAY 1

Head off on the loop. If you don't have a licence take the back streets out of town to avoid a police scam. Check out  what you haven't seen on "cave alley" and cool off at a swimming hole along the way. First stop is the Sunset Resort & Restaurant at Nakai. They have bungalows, geodesic domes, a restaurant, swimming pool and a party boat. Relax here as long as you like because it is a very short day tomorrow.

DAYS 2 & 3

It's less than a hour to Thalang. On the way you could stop off and walk The Orchid Path a 900 metre trail that will take you up to the reservoir view point. Stay by the lake at Phosy Thalang Guesthouse in a bungalow with a balcony by the lake.

Up the road is the very popular Sabai Dee Guesthouse who have a nightly BBQ. It's a good place to go and meet other travellers. If you have a few spare days and want to go trekking into the Nakai Nam Thuen National Park they can organise it here. They have other tours as well to this newly opening up attraction. You have a couple of nights to relax in this laid back little place, so put your feet up. Head out onto the lake for a boat trip or catch a few fish for dinner.

DAY 4

Fill up the tank before you head out of town. The ride up to Lak Sao is slightly surreal as go through the flooded valley populated by dead trees. Look for the Buddhas carved into the rocks on the side of the road. Lak Sao is a good place to hit the ATM if you need it and have lunch. Or even better, wait for the restaurant at the Dragon Cave.

The next section of jungle covered karst is some of the best on the loop. First stop is the Dragon Cave then a cool down at the turquoise waters of the Cool Pool. At the village of Tha Bak you can hire a "Bomb Boat" (repurposed B-52 fuel tank) and go for a cruise. Fill up your tank before you head  to your accommodation. Spend the night at the excellent Sanhak Guesthouse in Na Hin.

DAYS 5,6 & 7

A stunning ride down between towering limestone karsts surrounded by bright green rice paddies to the famous Kong Lor Cave is a good way to start your day. Stay at the stunningly located SpringRiver Resort for a blissful 3 days. Plenty of time to see the cave and enjoy the wonderful accommodation. If you can lash out a bit and get the best room available. Definitely get a balcony overlooking the river if you can. 

You can travel from the resort to the cave by boat along the river. If you feel like being active there is a lot to do to keep you entertained such as canoeing, cycling, swimming, hiking and a nearby village.

DAY 8

Time to leave paradise and get back on the loop. Have a late start if you like as you're only riding back to Na Hin today. Check in to your hotel on the way through. It has riverside bungalows, great food and is close to a little village.

If you're feeling energetic head up to the Nam Sanam Waterfall. Definitely take a guide and some good walking shoes and your bathers. It's a 1km ride and 2km difficult jungle trek. You'll need to set aside 3 hours for this. There is a swimming pool at the bottom then you can climb further up to see the full power of the falls. They should be flowing well at the end of the monsoon season.

An Australian traveller nearly died here in 2008 when a tropical down pour caused him to lose the path and become disorientated. Somehow he survived 11 days out in the elements before being rescued. It is an amazing story and a documentary has been made about it called Miracle in the Jungle.

You can watch it here. - And see why you should get a guide.

If you'd rather avoid all of that head straight to the Limestone Forest Viewpoint - known as the "Peak of the Loop". The views of one of Asia's largest limestone forests are sensational and there are zip lines, a spider net and canopy walks. There is a good restaurant here and it's a great place to be around sunset. Your hotel has a good restaurant too so that could be dinner and drinks later.

DAY 9

Last day on the loop today. It should take around 3 hours or so to get back to Thakhek. It's back on the main road so it won't be as scenic as what your used to but it will be quicker and you'll complete the circle.

If you feel like a swim on the way back, Khun Kong Leng Lake is a beautiful spot to cool off. Unfortunately it's 20 km off of the highway. You'll see a sign about 30 km from Thakhek.

2 nights here in Thakhek to unwind and enjoy a few treats and get a massage or two. And a couple more Mekong sunsets accompanied by an icy cold Beer Lao or 2 or 3 or 4.....

Make your way back to Thailand and get into party mode. Fire boats, Walking Streets, Dragon Boat races, you'll soon see the Thai's know how to have a good time. It's called Sanuk (Fun) and you'll love it. 

If you get the time there are a few sights you might want to see. Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Minh) used to live in a small village near here and you can visit his house and garden. One of the most sacred temples for Thai and Lao Buddhists is down the road. Wat Phra That Phanom contains Buddha's breastbone and it is considered a once in a lifetime opportunity to make a pilgrimage here. Those who have visited 7 times are considered children of the chedi and can expect good luck and prosperity to ensue. Even one visit is considered auspicious.

Fly back to Bangkok and have one last night in the area around the airport. You won't believe how cheap and good the hotels are. To keep you entertained there is a swimming pool and a ton of places to eat, drink and do a bit of last minute shopping. Plus free airport transfers.

History -

The first Lao Kingdom was called Lan Xang (the land of the million elephants) in 1353. Over the years there were battles with all the neighbours - Chinese, Thai, Burmese, Khmer and the Vietnamese.

Lan Xang split into 3 kingdoms - Luang Prabang (north), Vientiane (central) and Champassak (south). When the French came along they united the 3 territories into one entity and called it Laos which became a part of French Indochina, along with Cambodia and Vietnam.

When the Vietnam War began Laos declared herself neutral but the USA conducted a "Secret War" and Laos became the most bombed country in the history of warefare.

The Communist Pathet Lao backed by North Vietnam took control of the country in 1975 forming the Lao Peoples Democratic Republic.

See -

Bangkok -

If it's your first time a walking tour around Rattakosin Island (the Royal Palace, Emerald buddha etc) would be a good idea. If you've been before a day at Ko Kret or Bang Kachao, two of Bangkok's riverine islands might be the trick. Have a look at Bangkok in Cities and also in the start of the Thailand trips.

Nakhon Phanom -

Wat Phra That Phanom

Ho Chi Minh's House

The Big Naga

The Former Governor's Residence - where King Rama IX and the Queen spent the night

3D footpath art

Thakhek -

Wat Phathat Si Khottabong - is an important temple and pilgrimage site in Laos by the Mekong.

Nakai - Buy petrol at Gnommalat before you go up the hill to Nakai

Enroute - Cave alley including the Elephant Cave (locals sheltered here during the secret (illegal) war) /  Buddha Cave (229 staues and 8 kms of bad road) / Tham Pha Nya Inh Cave (Holy cave with sacred turquoise water - no swimming) / Tha Falang (swimming hole favoured by the French in Colonial times - lock the bikes and look after your stuff) / Tham Nang Aen Cave (Biggest and most developed - coloured lights and underground boat tour which takes 2 hours)

Thalang - Fill up the tank before you leave

Enroute - Orchid Path a 900 metre trail that will take you up to the reservoir view point / 16km north are 2 traditional weaving villages Ban Nam Nian and Ban Sobia

Na Hin - Fill up at Lak Sao & Fill up @ Na Hin on last day of the loop

Enroute - the Drowned Forest / carved Buddhas / Dragon Cave ( has a restaurant, cafe, gift shop - it is well lit and you can walk in one end and out the other) / Cool Pool (there are food stalls outside) / Bomb Boats (For hire at Tha Bak)

Ban Tiou -

Kong Lor Cave - 

a thrilling 7.5 km boat ride through a limestone mountain to remote villages out the other side. A short walking section is illuminated to have a look at some of the features while the rest of the cave is dark. So a good head lamp will be useful here and in all the caves. It takes around an hour to get through to the other side of the cave. You can rent a bicycle and follow a marked route through the villages on the other side. You could spend an hour or so looking around and having a feed.

Lat Krabang -

The Suvarnabhumi Flea Market

Hua Takhe - 

an old canal side community from the Rama V days that has been turned into an art market

Do -

Bangkok -

High Tea at the Oriental

Nakhon Phanom -

Ride a bike along the river promenade and enjoy the scenery across the river. Have a workout on the public gym equipment along the way

Plant rice at Khao khun Mae

Thakhek -

Test ride the bike and visit the time consuming caves nearby

Go for a swim

Nakai -

Visit the Tad Song Sou waterfall - with cabanas, restaurant and bar

Visit the Nam Theun 2 Visitor Centre near the waterfall and learn the official story about the dam and the hydro electric plant that exports power to Thailand. Ride around the reservoir for the scenic view of dead trees sticking up through the water

Visit the local market

Thalang -

Boat trips, Fishing and Picnics on the reservoir

Boat trip down the river into the jungle for remote villages and swimming holes - ask at your guesthouse

Na Hin -

Visit the Limestone Forest Viewpoint

Hike up to the Nam Sanam waterfall

Ban Tiou -

Water sports / swimming / canoeing

Visit the local villge

Relax on your balcony

Lat Krabang -

Eat, Swim, Drink, Shop. Reminisce

Sky Lane aka the Happy and Healthy Bike Lane - 

23.5 km bright blue (regular) and purple (fast) bike tracks around the airport hoping to become one of the world's best. Lots of facilities like cafes, food halls and bathrooms. Also there is a kids fun riding park, outdoor fitness centre and other innovations. Can hire a bike and a helmet. Plus 1.5 km jogging track on low impact rubber.

Have a massage or spa treatment

Eat -

Bangkok -

Karim Roti Mataba - near the hotel

Krua Apsorn - on the walking tour

Mont Nom Sod - for smoko - close to Krua Apsorn

Ghost Gate - Raan Jay Fai (Crab omelette) and Thip Samai - (Pat Thai in omelette) - famous eateries

Chinatown / Somboon Seafood / nahm / Charoen Krung Road - (near the main Sathorn Ferry Pier)

Nakhon Phanom -

At the Night Market

Aunt Kaew's Noodles

North of the town centre are some places with decks overlooking the Mekong

Thanks to a local population of Vietnamese there is good Vietnamese food to be had here like Good Morning Vietnam for example.

Thakhek -

Riverside Night Market

Good Pizza at your hotel

Nakai -

Sam Sep Restaurant - waterfront terrace, cordon bleu and Lao BBQ (Sindad)

Thalang -

Sabaidee Guesthouse has a nightly BBQ buffet

Loop Cafe & Restaurant - near the Cool Pool

Na Hin -

Sin Dat Bo Ing Hot Pot - Lao BBQ

Soup Lady - Noodle soups

Kop Jai Der Restaurant at Phu Man the Rock Viewpoint - zip line and spider net - 15 mins and 10 km west of Na Hin - spectacular views

Sainamhai Resort - Your place

Ban Tiou -

Your place or head into town for a change

Lat Krabang -

Suvarnabhumi Outdoor / Flea Market - an up and coming world street food destination

Drink -

Bangkok -

Locally around Khao San Road and the Banglamphu area

Head out to one of the famous areas like Sukkhumvit or RCA

Nakhon Phanom -

During the festival you wont even have to think about it

At other times the riverside bars near the Night Market and after midnight is AEC Pub

Thakhek -

Six Friends Restaurant - cheap beer

Le Rendez Vous - popular indoor outdoor pub

Nakai -

At your Resort

Thalang -

Sabaidee Guesthouse has a bonfire and drinks after the BBQ buffet

Your place

Na Hin -

Bob's Bar - very close to your guesthouse

Ban Tiou -

Bar at the resort - riverside

Lat Krabang -

Rooftop of your hotel - or head out into the street and follow your nose

All Six to Twelve x En/r/oute - breakfast to late night with live music

Eat, Drink, Love - all you can drink house wine and local beer

Sky Bar 64 - overlooking the airport's runways

Sundowners -

Bangkok -

Amorosa Bar - At Arun Residence opposite Wat Arun

Sky Bar - the one from the Hangover 2 movie - dress requirements - have a Hangovertini

Nakhon Phanom -

Sunset Cruise on the River's Cruise boat

Thakhek -

The riverside restaurant at your hotel and other waterfront bars

The floating restaurant

Nakai -

Sunset Resort & Restaurant - your accommodation

The Ghost Boat - food and drinks looking over dead trees coming out of the water

Thalang -

Sunset or Sunrise cruise on the reservoir

Na Hin -

The Limestone Forest Viewpoint

Ban Tiou -

The terrace bar at your resort

Lat Krabang -

Ploen Ploen Restaurant - sunset over the lake

Your hotel's rooftop bar

The Happy and Healthy Bike Lane

Tips -

• Always lock your bikes securely and together any time they are out of your sight.

• Definitely get travel insurance and read the fine print to make sure you are covered riding a bike.

• Book your hotel very early if you are going to the festival in Nakhon Phanom. If you do it on Booking.com you should be able to get free cancellation up to almost the arrival date and pay when you get there. Breakfast included. It's a great hotel but not that close to the centre of town so you might want to have a scooter or bicycle available for your use. They should be able to help you out with this. There is a 7-11 next door at the petrol station for drinks and treats.

• Get enough money in Thakhek to last the loop.

• Crocs are very good for getting around wet caves and waterfalls

Safety -

Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way.

Never ride out in the countryside at night time. Don't ride if you've been drinking. Wear shoes and a helmet. Check that your tyres are pumped up very firmly. Get petrol often. Check your bike out well before hiring it.

Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. Just bring your common sense with you and use it. 

Specialties -

Bangkok -

Moo Ping (chargrilled marinated pork on a stick), Khao Niaw (sticky rice) and Som Tam (Spicy Green Papaya salad). The latter two aren't originally from Bangkok but from where you are headed, the northeast and Laos. Eaten together they make the perfect meal. Get the pork from a street vendor and take it to a restaurant that does a great som tam. It likely evovled in Laos where they call it Tam Som so you're likely to be trying a few different versions of it over the journey

Another good use for sticky rice is to pair it with with mango to make a delicious dessert called Khao Niaw Mamuang.

Souvenirs -

Bangkok -

Jim Thompson Silk / Carved soap / Weird T-shirts

Nakhon Phanom -

Wat Thra That Phanom is surrounded by souvenir shops

Fire Boat replicas

Thai Fair sarong

Thakhek -

Beer Lao T-shirt / Lao Lao

Thalang -

Weavings

Lat Krabang -

I love Lat Krabang fridge magnet

Extra -

See Thailand and Laos in Countries