Itinerary -

Bangkok 2N 

Chiang Mai 3N 

140km

Navasaung Resort 1N 

125km

Mae Sariang 3N 

165km

Mae Hong Son 3N 

130km

Pang Mapha / Cave Lodge 3N 

50km

Pai 3N 

100km

Mae Rim 2N

40km

 Chiang Mai 1N

 = 21N / 6Towns & 750Km

 Safety -

Slow is safe. You will encounter many hazards along the way and the slower you are going the more chance you will survive them. Pot holes, animals, mad bus and truck drivers etc. 

At the end of every motor vehicle accident story in the papers is the line "and the driver fled the scene".

On the roads in Asia there is one rule. Smaller things give way to bigger things. At least on a bike you have plenty of room to get out of the way. And you know where you stand in the pecking order - right at the bottom.

Don't let this scare you off what is a fantastic experience. It just means you don't need to rent a big powerful bike and go hell for leather.

When the road is good and clear you can still give it a handful and there is nothing like the feeling of cruising through the bends in the afternoon light with just a subtle shift of your weight. 

The ever reliable 125 has plenty enough power to get you up the steepest hills. And they're incredibly cheap. 

If you want some more comfort or there are 2 on the bike something bigger would be a good idea. The Honda Forza scooter is a good choice.

Short easy days are the way to go. You're on holidays. Don't ride in the dark. Alcohol and motorbikes don't mix.

Skill Level -

There are a couple of tricky bits but take it slowly and you'll be fine. It's a fantastic ride for a motor bike.

When -

October to January is best - you don't want to be riding in the rain or the smoke.

October, November is shoulder season and December, January is peak.

You really don't want to go during burning season which is January to March. It's hard to say when this is but October to December should be before it happens and you're probably okay through to early January. 

Famous -

This Loop

The Long Neck Karen Ladies - 

there are arguments as to whether this is exploitation or not but the bottom line is they are refugees and this is the only way they can earn money for the whole village.

Air America with Mel Gibson and Robert Downey Jnr 

was filmed in Mae Hong Son which they renamed  "May Hang Self". But they were here a lot longer than you will be. It's a magical place especially at night with the temple lights reflecting in the lake while you stroll around the Night Market.

Coffee in Love - 

a very scenic cafe area was in Thai movie and became very famous. Traffic used to back up for kilometres to come up for coffee and selfies.

Su Tong Pae - 

the Bamboo Bridge

Highlights -

Ko Kret or Bang Kachao - 2 Bangkok Islands - see Bangkok in "Cities" Days 3 & 7)

Chiang Mai Grand Canyon - weird water park

Doi Inthanon - "The Roof of Thailand" and rare Cloud Forest

Mae Sariang - Salween River boat trip from Mae Sam Laeb

Phu Klon Country Club - Mud Spa

Cave Lodge - unique place to stay

1. Three Countries in one day - Thailand

2. Ban Rak Thai - Little China

3. Pang Oung Resevoir - Little Switzerland

Pai - everybody's favourite town

Mae Rim - Pools with  views

Budget -

Very cheap, great value for money.

Pack -

Always take some wet weather and warm gear. It always rains on one day of the trip. Try to keep it light. Long johns are good. As is a spray jacket, gloves and a Garden bag to keep your pck dry. Octopus straps to hold your pack down.

Visa -

Many countries get 30 days on arrival at Thai Airports. Some land borders only give 15 days to some countries.

Airports - 

Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) - 

there is a free shuttle service between here and (DMK) which has the cheap flights and airlines

Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)

Use a taxi to get out here

Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX)

Catch the official airport taxi into town

Check here for airfares.

Starting Town -

Chiang Mai -

Flying from Bangkok is cheap, the overnight train is fun and the bus is the cheapest and least desirable option. The old Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) has the cheap flights.

Spend a couple of days organising the bikes and anything else you may need.

Cooking classes

Massage at the Women's Prison

Eat Khao Soi - Chiang Mai Laksa

Gaeng Hung Lay - Burmese pork curry

Sai Oua - Northern sausage 

Khantoke dinner - and show

Check out the Night Bazaar and drink by the river, Loi Kroh and Nimmanhaemin

Rental -

Chiang Mai is full of rental places. Most with a pretty good reputation. Shop around and definitely take the bike for a test run and check it out thoroughly. Take a photo of any damage to it before you leave.

Make sure you get a decent helmet. the best sort have a flip down clear plastic visor which makes riding in the rain much easier.

For one person a 125cc Honda Wave has plenty of power. If there are 2 of you you might want to get something with a little more power.

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Stay - @ or near

Bangkok -

 New Siam Riverside *** -  

river views, swimming pool in Banglamphu area near Khao San Road 

Chiang Mai -

Raming Lodge Hotel & Spa **** -  

great location with swimming pool, Spa and Wellness Centre

Navasuang Resort -

not on Booking.com, shouldn't be any problems rocking up with out a booking - swimming pool, great view and very helpful

Mae Sariang -

Riverhouse Resort *** - 

on the river, swimming pool, restaurant and bar

Mae Hong Son -

Piya Guest House - 

not on Booking.com - lakeside - best location in town, swimming pool and very friendly 

Pang Mapha (Sop Pong) - 

Cavelodge - 

Adventure tours, restaurant, big common area with fire pit, cold beer - homepage

Pai -

Family House @ Pai *** - 

great location by river and close to town centre, swimming pool, restaurant and bar - next door is a real bargain Breeze of Pai **½ - not on Booking.com - A framed bungalows with the river at the rear of the property

Mae Rim -

All of these have swimming pools with great views and are within about half an hour of each other.

Panviman Chiang Mai Spa Resort***** -

hilly with fantastic views - 2 Swimming pools, Spa & Wellness Centre, Cafe, Restaurant, Bar

Sukantara Cascade Resort and Spa **** 

hot tub by the waterfall - Swimming pool, Spa & Wellness Centre, Cafe, Restaurant, Bar, peacocks

Hmong Hilltribe Lodge*** - 

BBQ night and Akha dancing - Swimming pool, Restaurant, Bar

If you can't decide just spend a night at each one :-)

====================================================

About -

Have a couple of nights in BANGKOK to get acclimatised. Have a look at Bangkok in 'Cities' for detailed information and a selection of sights and activities.

Make your way to CHIANG MAI either by plane or train. The plane is quick and cheap. The train is fun but sometimes floods cut the line at the end of the wet season.

Have 3 days in Chiang Mai getting organised and taking in the sights.

Head off south west on Hwy 108 on your great adventure. You only have 140 kms to cover today so you'll have plenty of time to look around. First stop is the Chiang Mai Grand Canyon. Pull in for a coffee or spend an hour or two having a swim or being a dare devil.

Next make you way up Doi Inthanon, Thailand's tallest mountain and see the twin pagodas for the King and Queen. Take a walk through the rare Cloud Forest and see Thailand's only Sphagnum Bog. You're never far from food in Thailand so just pick up lunch whenever you're hungry.

Continue on to your destination the friendly NAVASUANG RESORT. Cool off in the pool then grab a beer and take in the wonderful view.

After a good night sleep and a hearty breakfast make your way to MAE SARIANG. A similar distance to yesterday so no need to rush anywhere. Along the way you can see the Thep Phanom Hot Spring and Ob Luang National Park (A second Grand Canyon in as many days - don't worry there's more, but not on this trip. Unless you count Pai Canyon).

Mae Sariang is a great find and thankfully not too many people know about it. There's a good stretch of bars and restaurants along the river to entertain you in the evenings. During the day you can check out the Salawin River and go for a boat ride to a remote village for lunch on one of the longest free flowing rivers in the world.

There's a few pools around town, markets and an intriguing Buddha statue worth a look.

Head north on the 108. It's easy to navigate this trip as most days you only have one or two highway numbers to remember. Once again it's around a 3 hour ride, so it's nice and relaxed. Stop off for lunch in Khun Yuam which is around the half way mark. There is a museum here with some artefacts left by the Japanese in WWII. If it's the right time of year (November and early December for 40 days) head out for a look at the Thung Bua Tong Wild Sunflowers. It will take you an hour and 50 kms out of your way.

Try to find a place near the lake in MAE HONG SON. Piya Guest House is basic but has the best location in town, is great value and the staff are fantastic. Head up the hill to the temple for sunset and wonderful views of the town. At night time there is a market and food stalls around the lake and with the temple lights twinkling in the lake reflection it's hard to think of anywhere else you'd rather be. 

Or perhaps you can and it's the local pub, the Crossroads - a short walk away. There are some good day time outings here. A visit to the nearby Phu Klon Country Club Mud Spa is a must and your support for the local Karen refugee village would be much appreciated. There is some controversey about these visits but the simple fact is it is the only revenue for the whole village. Another attraction is the photogenic Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge, built across the rice paddies it is the longest one in Thailand. It makes for a varied and good day out. Probably best to go to the Long Neck Village first then the bridge and finish up with the mud spa.

Thailand, China and Switzerland, three countries in one day. That's how you will start off your next leg. Ban Rak Thai (love Thailand village) is a scenic little village around a lake which was settled by former Chinese Nationalist soldiers. It is a good place for morning tea as you can have tea tastings and Yunnan noodles. You will see a large tea centre on the way which is worth stopping at. Go to Thai Switzerland on the way back to the main road for a coffee.

Ban Ruam Thai is known as the Switzerland of Thailand with its lake, mountains and pine trees. Save your appetite for the BBQ stands at "Fish Cave" when you get back on the main road. Continue on until you get to the town of Pang Mapha aka Soppong and make your way to Cave Lodge.

This unique place was set up by an Australian spelunker and his Shan wife on Shan land. If you're into caving you'll enjoy his book which is on sale at the lodge. Nearby is the amazing Tham Lod (cave). CAVE LODGE is made up of different types and standards of bungalows scattered around the hilltop and a large communal building with a fire pit, hammocks, kitchen for eating, drinking and socialising.

There are a whole 'raft' of activities here from black and white water kayaking, caving and hiking. Wander down just before sunset and see and hear the amazing spectacle of  10 million bats and 10 million swallows changing shifts. It's a great place to get back to nature.

The next town on the loop, PAI has been likened to a rural Khao San Road due to its popularity with backpackers and other travellers. It is popular for good reason. It is located in a beautiful part of the world, there are a lot of things to do here, it has a fantastic Night Market and some great restaurants. It is also a good place to get bamboo tattoos if that is on your list. 

Try to find somewhere nice by the river, but still a short walk from the town centre. Family House @ Pai is a good choice. Or Breeze of Pai is good value for basic A Frame bungalows.

There is plenty here to keep you occupied including Pai Canyon, the Japanese Bridge, Elephant Camp, Hot Springs, Beauty treatments, tubing, waterfalls, villages etc etc. Have fun!

Still heading east, make your way to the resort you have picked out in MAE RIM. There are a lot of action activities around here. Or you may want to sit around your spectacular pool and contemplate the journey you've just experienced with an icy cold beer in hand. Just after a relaxing spa session and massage. Sounds good!!

Short ride down the highway to CHIANG MAI and your last night. Make it a good one. Fly back to Bangkok and home. There are two airports in Bangkok so you'll want to be flying to the one with the IATA code BKK otherwise you'll need to take the free transfer shuttle which can take an hour or two depending on the traffic. 

History -

Until fairly recently Mae Hong Son Province was the most inaccessible in the Kingdom. The Japanese built the first dirt road to the town during WWII. It had started life as a camp stet up for capturing elephants in the early 1800's.

Mae Hong Son continued to grow isolated from the rest of Thailand with many Burmese influences.

Ban Rak Thai was settled by Chinese KMT soldiers who came across the border after they had become isolated in southern China when Mao came to power. After years of involvement in the drug trade and hunting communists for the Thai government it was time for them to settle down. There are over 60 of these villages in northern Thailand.

The region around Pai was a haven for opium and communists in the 1970's. By the 80's these problems had been solved and the hippies started moving in.

See -

Bangkok - Sunset from Sky Bar

Chiang Mai - Doi Suthep

Doi Inthanon - Cloud Forest

Mae Sariang - Phra That Jom Thong

Mae Hong Son - Long Neck Karen Village - Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge - Ban Rak Thai

Phang Mapha - Tham Lod (Cave)

Pai - Pai Canyon (not for the faint hearted) - Japanese Bridge

Wild Sunflowers in November - December

Mae Rim - Buffalo Training Camp 

Do -

Bangkok - Visit Ko Kret - Sunset at the Golden Mount

Chiang Mai - Massage at the Women's Prison / Cooking Classes

Mae Sariang - Salween River trip

Mae Hong Son - Visit the Mud Spa

En-route to Cavelodge go to Ban Rak Thai and little Switzerland, a tea plantation and a fish cave

Cavelodge - Black and White water kayaking - Spelunking - Trekking - Cave Lodge

Pai - Thom's Elephant Camp - Pai - Hot Spring Sa Resort Get a bamboo tattoo - Pai - ATV sunrise tour Tubing - Pai - White water rafting - learn a few tricks at the Pai Circus School

Mae Rim - Off road in the jungle

Eat -

Bangkok - Karim Roti Mataba - Jay Fai - Thipsamai

Chiang Mai - Blue Diamond / Huen Phen / Aroon Rai / Khantoke / Riverside 

Mae Sariang - Coriander in Redwood (Good Thai food and wine) - Night Markets - Mae Sariang Wed, Fri & Sun

Mae Hong Son - Being so close to the border there is a lot of Shan food on offer. Shan and Yunnan Noodles

Phang Mapha - good food at Cavelodge

Pai - Night Market

Mae Rim - at the Resort

Roadside BBQs - a good one near the Mud Spa

Little restaurants in the middle of nowhere - you'll be surprised - mime something (like a chicken) and see what comes out

Drink -

Bangkok - 

Banglamphu - Khao San Road (local)

Chiang Mai - 

Loi Kroh / Riverside / Nimmanhaemin / Hill Tribe Coffee 

Mae Sariang - 

String of riverside bars with live music in the evenings - Black Ant for Coffee

Mae Hong Son - 

Crossroads Pub 

Pai - 

Chaisongkran Rd for Bars

Mae Rim - By the pool

Tips -

• Download the Maps.me app and all of the appropriate maps and use it to navigate everywhere

• Check the map and fill up the petrol tank when necessary. Once or twice a trip there is always a section where you think you are going to run out.

• Pump up the tyres quite hard. If you put your thumbs in the centre of the tread you should barely be able to push it in.

• Don't be shy about using your horn to let people and animals know you are there

• Always lock your bikes together.

• Maps from GT riders are very handy as is their website

• Click here for GT Riders

• Pai gets very busy from November to January and prices can double or worse

Specialties -

Whatever is in season you will see displayed along the side of the road all ready prepared to eat, for you to pick up and enjoy.

Souvenirs -

Get your certificate to say you've negotiated the 1,864 bends in Mae Hong Son at the Tourist Office

Shan treats

Burmese cheroots

Pick up some tea in Ban Rak Thai

Extra -

Have a look at Bangkok and Chiang Mai in Cities

Chiang Mai has an International Airport with direct flights to cities in neighbouring countries - see in Airports above.

Have a look at the other Motorbike Loops. Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Singapore in Countries. Loy Krathong, Fire Balloons and Lao New Year in Festivals and Golfing Nomads.