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Coramandel 2 Malabar

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Rental Bike
An Indian Tuk Tuk
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Photo by Syed Ali on Unsplash

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An image of an unfolded map showing streets and a body of water with a marker on the map

Marker Map

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Trip Info

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Insurance

Flights



Image by Raj Mohan from Pixabay



ITINERARY


Chennai 2N 

Mahabalipuram 1N

Puducherry 3N 

Yercaud 2N 

Tiruchirappalli 2N

Madurai 2N

Mandapam  2N

Thiruchendur 1N 

Kanyakumari 2N 

Kovalam Beach 3N  

Varkala Beach 4N 

Alleppey 1N + 2N (& Kerala Backwaters Houseboat 2N)

Thekkady 2N 

Munnar 2N 

Fort Kochi 3N 


= 1775 Km - 36 Nights - 15 Towns and 1 Houseboat

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Skill Level -

Unless you're a tuk tuk driver by profession you probably haven't driven one before. So you'll have to learn on the job. At handover one of the rental company's experienced drivers will give you a lesson. Have a few easy runs until you feel proficient at it. In 2006 two English girls bought a tuk tuk in Bangkok and drove it back to England and had a ball.

You can read  about it in their book Tuk-Tuk to the road: Two Girls, Three Wheels, 12,500 Miles. It might give you some inspiration.


Your main worries are road conditions, weather, other drivers and animals on the road. So drive slowly, never drive at night, don't drink and drive, stay alert and use your horn a lot. Learn how the locals navigate traffic and do it the same way. Best if everyone is on the same page. Also find out local customs. In some countries if the vehicle in front puts on their traffic side indicator it means it's ok to pass. In other countries it means don't pass something is coming. When in doubt or when you can't see the road ahead be patient.



When -

Late November to February is the best time. The monsoon rains have eased off and the temperature isn't too hot.

March - May is very hot. June to September is very wet. October - November hot, humid and afternoon rain.



Famous -

Madras Curry / Mulligatawny / Filter Coffee

Madras Curry Powder - ironically you can't get it in Madras (Chennai)

Marina Beach - Chennai the world's 2nd longest urban beach

2 Kovalam Beaches - one famous, one not

Trichinopoly Cigars - favoured by Sir Winston Churchill and Sherlock Holmes

Adam's Bridge - to Sri Lanka

Houseboat on the Kerala Backwaters

Kerala the world's Spice Capital

Drive India's most scenic road - Thekkady to Munnar

One of the finest natural harbours in the World

Tellicherry Pepper - Black Gold - TGSEB - Tellicherry Garbled Special Extra Bold - the world's highest rating for pepper



Highlights -

Mahabalipuram UNESCO World heritage Site - temples and monuments

Asia's largest seashell museum - 20,000 of them

Auroville - Experimental Cashless Universal City

Hill Stations - Yercaud / Thekkady / Munnar

The best Coffee, Spices and Tea Plantations

The Rock Fort Temple on a massive 4 billion year old rock

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - 73 metres high and 156 acres big

Bathe in Holy Waters and wash your sins away - three times, just in case you're really bad

Pink Flamingos - from Australia!

The southernmost point of India - where the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal all meet

Two of India's top surf beach resorts

The Western Ghats - mountain chain

Stay in a tree house

Periyar Tiger Reserve - sanctuary for Elephants, Bengal Tigers and others

The rare and friendly mountain goats of ENP - UNESCO Nominated

The Paris of the East / The Athens of the East / The Alexandria of the East / The Venice of the East / The Kashmir of the South

Cuisines - Anglo-Indian (Raj) / Franco-Indian (Creole) / French / Tamil / Chettinad / Kerala 



Budget -

Low - this trip is designed for 2 people sharing the costs. Tuk Tuks are cheap and so is India. You can have a reasonable comfort level without having to spend too much. Some of the hotels in here will stretch the budget, but you  might be looking for a bit of luxury after a few days tuk tukking. You should save money with walk in prices or just look and you'll find plenty of cheap places. Nice accomodation will buoy your spirits along the way.



Pack -

Normally. Don't forget some sun glasses, a waterproof jacket and those thick orange garden bags are handy to put around your bag to make them waterproof. Something warm for the mountains and a pair of gloves wouldn't go astray. A large day pack would be best to take with you. Unless you have a roof rack there won't be a lot of room for luggage. You can rent surf racks. Or maybe get one each. Take some dress up clothes for the hill station clubs.



Visa -

Almost everyone needs a visa for India. A tourist visa will give you plenty of time for this trip which should be between 90 - 180 days.

Click here to check what you need to do.



Flights & Airports

Fly into Chennai International Airport (MAA) 

which has direct flights to 65 destinations in 18 countries including the Middle East, Europe, Africa and Asia.


Fly out of Cochin International Airport (COK) 

which has direct flights to 31 destinations in 13 countries including Europe, the Middle East and Asia.


Check here for flights.




Starting Town -

Chennai - not to long here. Just a couple of nights to arrive and get organised. Pick up your tuk tuk and get acquainted. Go for a bit of a test ride and check tyres and fluids etc. Why not head down the ECR (East Coast Road) to Kovalam Beach (Surf scene) and stop in at the Kipling Cafe for a meal. Stay in the Savera Hotel, there are a few other hotels, restaurants and bars in this area. You probably don't need to book all of your hotels on this trip. If it's peak season it would pay to book in Kovalam and Varkala beaches.



Rental -

Unlike motorbikes you don't get a lot of choice with tuk tuks. There is a surcharge for picking it up in Chennai and dropping it off at Cochin International Airport.

Click here to go to the website and book online.

Don't for get to take an International Driving Licence accredited with driving a car. This is all you will need to legally drive the tuk tuk.



Itinerary -

From the Coramandel Coast to the Malabar Coast this trip will be like nothing you've ever done before. Length of driving times have been kept to a comfortable level to make it a pleasant trip and give you plenty of time to stop off along the way. The longest day is 235 km and the daily average is 50 km.


Chennai 2N - 60 km - Mahabalipuram 1N - 100 km -  Puducherry 3N - 235 km- Yercaud 2N - 170 km - Tiruchirappalli 2N - 140 km - Madurai 2N - 160 km - Mandapam  2N - 200 km - 


Thiruchendur 1N  - 95 km - Kanyakumari 2N - 95 km - (En-route go via the Padmanabhapuram Palace and the Mathoor Aqueduct) - Kovalam Beach 3N - 60 km 


(En-route have lunch on the Floating Restaurant at Veli Village) - Varkala Beach 4N - 110 km - Alleppey 1N + 2N (and Kerala Backwaters Houseboat 2N) - 60 km - Thekkady 2N - 105 km - (En-route go to the Periyar Spice and Ayurvedic Garden and have lunch at Mountain Club (in Chinnakanal) - one of two old Planters Clubs in Munnar - great food 



with outdoor seating and fine mountain views - take your bathers for the Infinity Pool) - Munnar 2N - 135 km - Fort Kochi 3N - Airport - 50 km


= 1775 Km - 36 Nights - 15 Towns and 1 Houseboat


If the trip is too long for you there are numerous points where you can just cut something out. You'll be missing out on something you'll never get back though. Better if you've got more time and can spend a little extra time in some of the places.


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Stay - B* are on Booking.com

You should be able to walk in to most hotels and get a room without booking - but if there is something you really like or it's a busy tourist place book it on Booking.com with free cancelation. Also it's worth checking out the specials especially on some of the more expensive hotels. Nice accommodation helps to keep the spirits up so most of these hotels are 3, 4 and 5*****. You can save a lot staying in cheap places but don't forget to treat yourself every now and then when something special comes along. Usually the most preferred and expensive place is at the top and they get cheaper going down. Specials and what rooms are available can change this along with other reasons.


You've got your own wheels so you'll be able to stay in some more out of the way resorts and not have to worry about public transport. Click on the Marker Map to see what they look like.⬆️



Chennai - "Gateway to the South" - in Mylapore - Madras


Savera Hotel****

B* Parking - indoor and outdoor pools, Spa,


New Woodlands Hotel ***

Parking - pool


Raj Park ***

B* Parking - pool



Mahabalipuram - "Mahabs" - near the beach

Find somewhere you like north of the temple on the beach


Hotel Maallaa Heritage *** - 

B* Parking - Pool, 2 restaurants


Hotel Mahabs ***

B* Parking - pool


Oceanside Mahabalipuram ***

B* Parking


SPLURGE

Chariot Beach Resort **** - 

Parking - Olympic size pool, beachfront, Ayurveda and Wellness Spa, Bakery + 2 restaurants, Bar



Puducherry -  "Pondy" - "Paris of the East" - In the French Quarter


Villa Du Ocean *** - 

B* Street Parking - Rooftop Pool, Bar, Rooftop Restaurant


Villa Krish *** - 

B* Private parking nearby reservation needed - Pool, Bar, BBQ and sun terrace, Rooftop restaurant open air with sea views, seafood and tandoori


Hotel Villa Des Gouverneurs *** - 

B* Public parking - Was the residence of the French Governor, garden and terrace



Yercaud -  A Hill Station - "The Jewel of the South"


Grand Palace Hotel & Spa ***½ - 

B.com* Parking - Infinity Swimming pool with a stunning view and bar, Restaurant, Roof Terrace, Full service Spa - worth the money


Stirling Yercaud **** - 

B* Parking - Spa, every room has amazing views, theme parties, campfire, Restaurant, Bar, dining area in rooms, cricket



Tiruchirappalli - "Trichy"


Hotel Rock Fort View *** - 

B* Valet Parking - Rooftop Rock Fort view Restaurant and Bar


Vivid A Boutique Hotel *** - 

B* Parking


Grande Inn Trichy *** - 

B* Parking



Madurai - "The Athens of the East" - "City of Jasmine"


The Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai ***** - 

B* Parking - On a hilltop with views of Madurai and the famous temple, Pool, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, Restaurant, Bar, 62 acres of landscaped gardens, Ayurvedic treatment centre, Tennis courts, Moon Deck - dining under the stars with stunning views. If they only have Kings Suites on Booking.com it may look very expensive but don't worry their 'normak' rooms are much more reasonably priced.


The Madurai Residency ***

B* Parking - For something cheaper and close to the temple, 2 restaurants - 1 rooftop, bar, snack bar, 24 hour desk, very good breakfast included



Mandapam -


Joe's Beach Shack - Beach resort, Ramanathapuram

B*Parking - Outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, patio with garden view, beachfront, bidet, breakfast included



Thiruchendur -


Thai Beach Resort - **½ - 

Parking - Pool, BBQ

Otherwise there are plenty of hotels to choose from



Kanyakumari - "Cape Comorin" - "The Alexandria of the East"


Sparsa Resort Kanyakumari *** - 

B* Parking - 2 pools, tennis, 5 min walk from sunset point, sea views, Restaurant, Bar - Land's End, Beachfront


The Seashore Hotel ***

Valet Parking - Sunrise views, terrace, restaurant, private beach, ATM



Kovalam Beach -  "Paradise of the South"


Orion Beach Resort *

B* Public parking nearby needs a reservation and a slightly larger fee $2 day - Beachfront, terrace, views of the lighthouse


Sky Palace Beach Hotel

B* Private parking nearby for a small fee $1 day - garden, terrace, 2 minutes to lighthouse beach


Sangeeth Beach Resort -  

Parking - 3 minutes to Lighthouse beach, terrace, tour desk


The Ayur Villa

B* Parking - Swimming Pool, 50 meters from Lighthouse beach, Restaurant, garden, sun terrace, Bike hire, Spa, Massage, High Tea


Abad Serviced Villas

B* Parking, reservation needed - 50 meters from Lighthouse beach, garden, terrace, sea views



Varkala Beach -


Krishnatheeram Ayur Holy Beach Resorts *** - 

B* Parking - Tropical gardens, Swimming Pool, Ayurvedic Spa, Sun terrace, Restaurant, Sun lounge, library, gift shop, yoga


Varkala Marine Palace

B* Parking - Beachfront, Restaurant, Bar, Garden, Bidet, Full English / Irish breakfast, Sun terrace, Bike hire,


Palan Beach Resort *** -  

B* Parking - good location, sea views


Jicky's Nest ** -  

B* Parking - Balcony, Garden, 2 restaurants, cottages, 2 minute walk to the beach



Alleppey - "The Venice of the East" - Alappuzha


Malayalam Lake Resort

B* Private parking nearby for $2 a day - Restaurant, Garden, every room has a balcony with spectacular lake views, cycling, fishing, sunrise boat trip


Ramada Alleppey ***** - 

B* Secured Parking - 2 swimming pools, fitness, spa and wellness centre, sauna, 2 restaurants, massage parlour, garden, tour desk


Times Square Boutique Hotel **** - 

B* Valet Parking - Restaurant, Garden, Terrace, Tour desk


Venice Castle Homestay

Parking - very hospitable and honest and will give you good advice 


Springs Inn

Parking - very cheap, good location, tour desk



Thekkady - A Hill Station

TREE HOUSES - (ERUMADAMS)


Noah's Nest Tree House

B* Parking - only 2 available, Full English / Irish Breakfast, by a river, terrace, fishing, kayaking, walks


Kalpavanan Heritage Resort **** - 

B* Parking - the double room with garden view is pretty much a tree house, set in a Cardamom Plantation, restaurant, BBQ, fireplace, garden, terrace


Greenwoods

Vanya Tree House - back to nature, all inclusive, reached by a drawbridge that goes up when the sun goes down, you would need to park at their resort 4 km away and be transported by 4WD - Not Cheap but a good experience


Carmelia Haven Resort

cheaper but still expensive


Green Ark Boutique Resort

Wood House - the house is up 30 feet in the air, no a/c, waterfall view, open air restaurant, camp fire, open jeep forest safari, Ayurvedic massage, hikes, cheap


RESORTS

Cardamom County by Xandari **** -

B* Parking - Organic garden, Ayurvedic massage centre, Fitness centre, Outdoor pool, Restaurant, Bar, Cottages, Cooking classes, fishing, Outdoor fireplace


Greenwoods Resort ***** - 

B* Parking - Outdoor pool, great tree house cafe, restaurant, surrounded by dense forest, campfire, Tandoor by the pool with cultural performances

Abad Green Forest Thekkady *** - B* Parking - Outdoor pool, in 3 acres of woodland, Ayurvedic Spa, Wellness and Massage, Restaurant


Chrissie's Hotel *** 

B* Parking - Rooftop pool, Restaurant, all rooms have a balcony or terrace facing greenery - cheap, go for a family room


SPLURGE

Hills & Hues ***** - 

B* Parking - Stunning view over the infinity pool, Garden, Terrace, Bidet, Restaurant, Spa and Wellness Centre, BBQ, Outdoor fireplace - Insane views from all areas of the Suites



Munnar -  A Hill Station - "Kashmir of the South"

TREE HOUSES - (ERUMADAMS)


Bamboo Dale

Valet Parking - can book on Hostelworld, good price, eco-friendly, nice patios, restaurant, camp fire, nice views


Ela Ecoland Nature Retreat

B* Parking - a Cardamom and Coffee Plantation, Rustic, has a small river, local women prepare authentic meals for the restaurant, Breakfast and Dinner included, campfire, plantation and waterfall walks, BBQ, fishing, hiking - they also have Luxury Tents and Rock House rooms


Kaivalyam Wellness Retreat **** - aka Sitiram Mountain Retreat

B* Parking - includes breakfast, afternoon tea, yoga, cooking session, spice and tea garden walks, tea tasting, meditation and agnihotra - restaurant with pure vegetarian food only, Spa and Wellness Centre - the Chalet's are the Tree Houses - looks like 2 night minimum stay


Tree Top Jungle Jive

B* Parking (Reservation Needed) - Mountain View and Garden View Tree Houses, garden


Nature Zone Jungle resort *** - 

B* Parking - Eco-friendly oasis set in 28 acres 5700 feet above sea level


Dream Catcher Plantation Resort **** - 

B* Parking - Pool


RESORTS


Amberdale Luxury Spa & Hotel *****  - 

B* Parking- great price, stunning views, restaurant, garden, Spa and Wellness Centre, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, evening entertainment


Rivulet Resort **** - 

B* Parking - mountain ,river and jungle views from all of the rooms, stay in a suite, restaurant, garden, BBQ


Gruenberg Plantation Haus *** - 

B* Parking - located inside a tea garden, roof restaurant, garden and terrace


Moselberg Riverside Cottages *** - 

B* Parking - Terrace, mountain and river views, restaurant, cycling,hiking,fishing


Monsoon Grande **** - 

B* Parking - looking out over a tea plantation, restaurant


SPLURGE


Ragamaya Resort & Spa ***** - 

B* Parking - Situated above the Ponmudi Reservoir, sunset view from the infinity pool, stunning views, Ayurvedic Spa, restaurant, outdoor fireplace, BBQ, garden, Sun terrace - not that expensive



Fort Kochi - "The Queen of the Arabian Sea"


The Fort Manor Hotel - Kochi Kerala **** - 

B* Free Private Parking - rooftop terrace, close to restaurants, 5 mins from the main attractions


Dutch Bungalow **** - 

B* Free Parking - garden, terrace, restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, buffet or full English / Irish breakfast included, paid airport shuttle, spa and wellness centre, 24 hour desk, tour desk, close to main attractions


Hotel Bright *** - 

B* Free Parking (reservation required) - ATM, 24 hour desk, tour desk, restaurant, paid airport transfer, minimarket, close to main attactions - rooftop bar / restaurant



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About -

Fly into Chennai, settle in to your hotel in the historic neighbourhood of Mylapore. There is a music festival here in January you might catch. Sort out the tuk tuk, see the sights, eat a Madras Curry then hit the open road.


A short hop down the coast to the first destination to get used to your new vehicle. Take the scenic East Coast road down to a small fishing and surf village strewn with UNESCO world heritage temples and monuments from the Pallava dynasty. On the way stop in at Bay View at Kovalam surf beach for a seafood lunch by the sea. If you didn't come here yesterday. Or maybe breakfast at the Kipling Cafe.


Pondicherry or Puducherry is rare in India because it is a French Colonial town. The French didn't relinquish power until 1952 and some people still speak French here. Stay in the French Quarter and enjoy cafes, patisseries and French restaurants. This seaside town has beautiful promenades and a lively nightlife. The book and it's movie the Life of Pi started here.


Nestled in the Shevaroy Hills is the beautiful little Hill Station of Yercaud. It is one of the least explored Hill Stations in India. The area was cultivated for Tea, Coffee, Oranges, Pepper, Cardamom, Apples and Pears by David Cockburn "the father of Yercaud" between 1820 and 1829.


Stay in the wonderful Grand Palace & Spa Hotel. Have a day to go on a Coffee Plantation tour and see some of the other sights. Leave a bit of time for the stunning pool and bar back at the hotel.


Continue heading south to "Trichy" a city that has been around since the 3rd century BC. It is world famous for its cigars that Winston Churchill was never seen without. It is also in the top 10 of India's cleanest cities. Stay in a hotel with a rooftop bar and restaurant overlooking the amazing Rock Fort Temple that sits atop a massive rock said to be nearly 4 billion years old. Have a free day to see this and some of the other major sites around town.


Madurai is another place that's been around for a while. It was the 4th century when a visiting Greek wrote about it. This time you'll be out of the city in a serene mountaintop resort with beautiful city views of the famous temple and a swimming pool. Have a couple of nights here to relax and take things at an easy pace.


Time to head back to the beach. If you look at a map it's pretty easy to see where Sri Lank was once connected to India at Adam's Bridge and this is where you're headed. Stay on a quiet little beach and eat freshly caught fish out of little beach shacks on the sand. Enjoy getting in the water for some activity. Head over to the Island City to see the holy sites and wash your sins away. See the ghost town, some pink flamingos and the train bridges over the sea.


Just in case you didn't clean off all of your sins there is holy bathing at your next destination too. Spend the night in the beautiful little coastal town that is a popular pilgrim destination. It has a nice beach and is a popular spot for local tourists so there are plenty of hotels and restaurants.


Keep heading south until you can't go south anymore and you'll be at what the British called Cape Comorin. Another popular pilgrim destination with holy waters so keep scrubbing. This is a great spot for sunrises and sunsets. You'll find there seems to be something in the air here and it's an exciting place to be.


Time to leave Tamil Nadu and head into "God's Own Country" - Kerala. first stop is the famous beach resort of Kovalam. On the way have a look at Asia's largest wooden palace and one of the longest and highest aqueducts in South Asia. Stay on the most popular beach (Lighthouse Beach) and enjoy a bit of down time. This place became one of India's tourist hotspots when it became a part of the "Hippy Trail" in the 1970's.


Head straight up to another quite different but just as wonderful beach resort at Varkala. This one has a cliff looming over the beach lined with restaurants, cafes and accommodation. It's a brilliant spot to sit and watch the sun go down. The nightlife is lively too. It's only about an hour and a half down the road so why not stop en-route for a floating lunch at the Veli Lake Tourist Village. Have a look around while you're there.


Further up the coast are the glorious backwaters of Kerala. Stay beside the beautiful lake in Alleppey and organise your houseboat trip. you don't need to book it beforehand as there are plenty of houseboats and you'll get a much better price and see what you're getting on the spot. Don't forget to stock up on booze.

Here is a checklist of things to check before agreeing to a boat.


Head for the hills. You've been at sea level long enough. The jungle and spice centre of Thekkady is beckoning. Stay in a Tree House, in a Jungle Resort or on a Spice / Tea / Coffee Plantation or all of the above. There are Tree Houses at the next place also. Go for a cruise in the Tiger Sanctuary and visit a Spice Plantation. If you are short on time one of the better Spice Plantations is en-route to your next destination.


The road between Thekkady and Munnar is said to be the most scenic in India. Travel via Thekkady - Udumbanchola - Pooppaara - Devikkulam & Munnar


Another Hill Station which is famous for its Tea Plantations. The British East India Company wanted to break the Chinese monopoly on tea growing and this is the result. It has some of the world's highest growing tea and has been producing tea since 1880. It is a very scenic area and there is a good choice of Tree Houses and Resorts to choose from. Kick back and feel the serenity. Head out to the plantations and factory to learn all about tea and how it gets to the stage we see it at in the supermarket. Do a few tastings and become a tea expert.


Alas all to soon the trip is nearly over and you have one more leg to go. Fort Kochi has a lot of history and it goes way back. Vasco da Gama lived (and even died) here! By opening up a sea route to India it spelled the beginning of the end for the Silk Road. This area was the centre of world spice trade.


It is considered to have the finest natural harbour in the world and was once a major trade hub. The French, English, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and Jews have all strived for supremacy here which is why it such an exotic fusion of cultures.


Enjoy the sights and there are some nice restaurants here and a bit of nightlife as well. Drive yourself out to the airport and head home. It may be easier to hand the tuk tuk back in town and just get the normal transportation out to the airport.



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History -

The history of South India goes back over 3,000 years. More recent times has seen it split into many kingdoms fighting each other for supremacy. The Europeans started arriving in the 15th century. The British ended up having the most power through the efforts of the British East India Company. The French still retained power in Pondicherry. After independence the area was organised into 4 states. Rice is the diet staple and spices and coconut milk are used extensively.



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See -

Chennai -

Fort Saint George - built by the British East India Company in 1653 - it has a museum with relics of the Colonial days - closed Fridays


Vivekananda House - houses a permanent exhibition of the life of Swami Vivekananda. he was famous for introducing Hinduism to the west and a ground breaking speech he gave in Chicago in 1893.


Mahabalipuram - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Shore Beach temple / Panch Rathas (5 stone chariots from the Mahabharata) - good to see in the afternoon light at sunset


Seashell Museum - Asia's largest with 20,000 shells. It has an aquarium with sharks and other sea creatures.


Mahabalipuram Lighthouse / Krishna's Butterball / Arunja's Penance (may be the world's largest bas relief) / Tiger Cave


Puducherry -

Auroville - an experimental, cashless, spiritual community that welcomes everyone and promotes peace and harmony. Healing, garden, beach (dangerous for swimming), market, cafes and the sci-fi looking meditation centre are some of the drawcards. They have accommodation out here if you really like it.


The Botanical Gardens - which served as the Zoo in The life of Pi - they have a toy train and dancing fountains (on weekends)


Pondicherry Museum - including items from when they used to trade with the Roman Empire. The history of this region goes back 2,000 years


Yercaud -

Emerald Lake - row boats and pedal boats


View Points - Lady's Seat / Arthur's Seat / Pagoda Point / Tipperary Viewpoint - wonderful views of the mountains, town and the lake especially and sunrise and sunset


Killiyur Falls - very picturesque 3,000 foot waterfalls


Tiruchirappalli -

Rock Fort Temple - 400 barefoot steps to the top. Very impressive especially when it is lit up at night.


Teppakulam - Temple Pond at the bottom of the Rock Fort temple bordered by bazaars. You may have heard of Clive of India or seen the curry powder bearing his name in the supermarket. He was based here when he led the Siege of Tiruchirapalli in 1752.


Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple - 73 metres high and covering 156 acres this Hindu Temple dedicated to Vishnu is like a small city within a city. It has shops, restaurants and a rooftop viewpoint. It is a major pilgrimage site for Hindus and only they can go into the inner sanctum.


Tropical Butterfly Conservatory - one of the largest in Asia in over 25 acres of forest on an island in the middle of the Kollidam River. Closed Tuesdays. Open from 10am to 5pm and it's best to go early or late as they rest a lot during the day.


Railway Heritage centre and Museum - a lot of items from the days of the British Raj plus a toy train for joy rides.


The Grand Anicut Dam - one of India's greatest engineering feats. Built 2,000 years ago, modified by the British it diverts the river into numerous streams for irrigation and prevents flooding. And it still works! A bridge has been added and you can drive over the top of it.


Madurai -

Meenakshi Temple - a living temple and popular place to be married. It is one of the most famous temples in Southern India and an important place of Hindu Pilgrimage. Strict dress rules apply - no shoulders or legs exposed for either sex and hair up for the ladies.


Gandhi Memorial Museum - after his visit to Madurai he started wearing the iconic white loin cloth called a dhoti. He did this so he could identify with the poor people he was representing. The blood stained one he was wearing when he was assassinated is one of the items in the museum.


Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Ramanathaswamy Temple - one of India's holiest shrines and pilgrimage site with a famous 1,200 pillared hall


Dhanushkodi - Ghost town left over from a cyclone in 1964 which devastated the town and took out a train as well. The railway line terminated at a pier from where the ferry to Sri Lanka left from. A chian of limestone shoal go al the way over to Sri Lanka 18 nautical miles away. It is said that you could walk across Adam's Bridge to Sri Lanka before it was destroyed by a cyclone in 1480.


Arichamunai Bird Sanctuary - Pink Flamingos all the way from Australia (maybe) between December and March


Thiruchendur -

Tiruchendur Murugan Temple - famous 2,500 year old temple by the sea side from which the Dutch stole an idol. It was recovered in interesting circumstances. People who visit the temple have a holy dip in the sea then rinse off in the sacred spring. See below. When the Boxing Day tsunami of 2004 arrived it destroyed everything around the temple but didn't touch the temple. There are many eye witnesses who will attest to this.


Kanyakumari -

Vivekananda Rock Memorial - the Swami mentioned in Pondicherry spent 3 days meditating here which transformed him into the leader he became. There is a life size bronze statue of the Swami in a large pavilion and information on his life. It is a 15 minute ferry ride away


On the neighbouring island is a huge statue of the great Tamil poet and philosopher Thiruvalluvar. You can climb up the stairs inside of him. The same ferry comes over here too.


The Gandhi Memorial - his ashes were sent to various parts of India and this was one of them. They have since been put into the sea. There is a hole in the roof where the sun shines through on his birthday to where the ashes were once placed.


Ramayana Darshanam - an illustrated exhibit of the Ramayana which is all about the things you have been seeing along the way


Mayapuri Wonder Wax - local wax museum and 3D paintings inside the Baywatch Waterpark


Kovalam Beach -

Some of the nearby beaches


Varkala Beach -

Some of the other beaches, fishing villages and Edava Lake. There is also a Fort and Lighthouse around here.


Alleppey -

Alleppey Lighthouse - has a small museum and great views of Alleppey


Thekkady -

The Periyar Tiger Sanctuary - by boat, by raft, by jeep, by foot, by night - it has Birdlife, Asian elephants, Sambar deer, Indian bison, Leopards, rare Lion-tailed Macaques, Wild dogs and pigs and .....Bengal TIGERS!!


Munnar -

Tea Museum - a model of a working tea plantation out on Tea Museum Rd

See a Tea Plantation before you go to the factory to see how it's processed. It depends on where you decide to stay as to which one is most feasible. Perhaps try the Pallivasal Tea Garden.


Lockhart Tea Factory - guided tours, tastings and a museum


Blossom International Park - colourful and rare flowers in a park where you can go biking, skating or boating


Fort Kochi - 

Fort Kochi Jail and Museum - built to hold freedom fighters



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Do -

Chennai -

Georgetown Bazaar Walk - with Chennai Magic

Visit Marina Beach and take in the view from Chennai Lighthouse

December to April - is turtle nesting season and in March and April hatchlings are released


Mahabalipuram -

Go for a surf / ride a bike around the sights / Climb the stairs in the Lighthouse


Puducherry -

Go surfing - at beautiful Serenity Beach - boards, lessons and great restaurants available


Diving - crystal clear waters and a wealth of marine life


Paradise Beach - and Chunnambar backwaters boat trip (from Chunnambar Boathouse) - cleanest and most beautiful beach only reachable by boat, food available and they have famous night parties here with DJ's


Sita Cultural Centre - for lessons on cooking, yoga, Ayurveda, dancing and painting.


Pondy Cycle Tour / Immaculate Conception Cathedral / Heritage Walk


Have something to eat at Le Pondy Beach Resort then go for a swim in their impressive pool


Yercaud -

The 32 km loop road - very scenic drive directly north of the town going through villages and past coffee plantations (Gowri Estate is one of the best) and to -

The 150 year old Cauvery Peak Coffee Plantation for a coffee experience tour - 1.5 hours - 8am - 3.30pm - no booking needed - can do in the tuk tuk and a trained guide will come along - goes through the whole process from the growing, roasting etc and has a coffee museum. 

They combine their tours with horse riding if you are into that


ATV, Dirt Bike and Dune Buggies - at Grange Off Road Adventure, 100 acres of stunning woodland to play in as well as all sorts of adventurous activities


Tiruchirappalli -

Wander down Big Bazaar Street to Ghandi Market


Madurai -

Have an Ayurvedic massage by the pool


Maariamman Kovil Teppakulam - take a boat trip around this amazing temple tank, if it's got water in it. Otherwise go and watch the kids play cricket and maybe join in.


Visit the banana market - 16 varieties - and India's largest Jasmine market


Walking tour - "Once upon a time in Madurai", they also run Spice and Food tours


Athisayam Amusement & Water Park - 70 acres of fun and cooling down with a 7D theatre for something truly different. Food available. The largest Water Park in India.


Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Agnitheertham - wash your sins away in the 23 holy water bodies around the temple. In every one and in the correct order. Get an Ayurvedic Spa treatment from one of the nearby hotels.


Take a train ride over the sea bridges


Water sports - this is the Kite surfing capital of India, plus diving, snorkelling, kayaking and SUP


Thiruchendur -

Swim in the holy sea


Nazhi Kinaru - is a sacred well fed by a freshwater spring 100metres south of the temple that devotees clean themselves after swimming in the sea.


Kanyakumari -

Treveni Sangam - powerful and sacred spot for bathing where the oceans come together - have a look at the Tsunami Monument nearby


Kovalam Beach -

All of the usual water sports + surfing

Climb up the lighthouse (or take the lift) for spectacular views up the coast

Have some Ayurvedic treatments or massage / Yoga


Varkala Beach -

Visit the medicinal mineral springs for bathing and drinking


Surfing - this is one of the best surf spots in India, the biggest waves are before and after the monsoon but are more suited o the pros. In winter December to February they are smaller and perfect for beginners.


Swimming - here will also wash your sins away so feel free to play up


Ayurvedic - massage, cupping, reiki, hot oil in your third eye


Boat trip through the tunnel of Love


Canoe the backwaters / Cooking lessons / Help the fishermen with their nets / Get some Henna 


Alleppey - 

Backwaters Houseboat Trip


Thekkady -

Visit a Spice Plantation - Abraham's Spice Garden is a family run place opened in the early 1950's. The tour takes an hour or more and includes medicinal uses of plants - Green Park is another larger one


Jeep Safari - off road through the forest, past waterfalls and Spice Plantations

Jungle Night Patrol - includes a late night walk in the Periyar Tiger Reserve - with an armed Forest Guard


Munnar -

Visit Eravikulam National Park - to see the friendly, rare and endangered Nilgiri tahr (Alpine Ibex) mountain goats. After they were nearly wiped out by poachers the British tea company that owned the land stepped in and made it a protected sanctuary. 


Normally timid and fleeing humans the tahrs in the tourist zone are totally unafraid and mingle with the tourists allowing themselves to be petted and photographed. They are amazingly sure footed and can climb sheer cliffs that would cause any other animal to plunge to its death. This is a handy way to elude predators such as the leopards in the park who have been preying on them.


Golf (9 Holer) and Squash at the High Range Club


Quad bikes and Zip lines - at Dreamland Fun & Adventure Park along with camel and horse rides, mountain biking and a cable car


Ayurvedic treatments and massages


Fort Kochi -

A Walking Tour - including the Chinese fishing nets / Waterfront Granary Hotel / Jewtown / The International Pepper Exchange (the only place in the world that uses pepper as currency) / Jew Street / The Mattancherry Palace / The Jain temple (at 2.15 pm sharp to see the pigeons) / Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica / Princess Street / Vasco House / The Saint Francis CSI Church / Malabar House (Beer O'clock) and the Dutch Cemetery



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Eat - 

Vegetarians are well looked after and likely to stay healthier

Chennai - Anglo - Indian Cuisine - centuries old recipes from the British Raj


The Madras Club (1832) and the Madras Gymkhana Club (1884) for their carefully preserved signature dishes from the British Raj. You'll need to dress up if they let you in. Or you could try The Verandah at the Taj Connemara which has an Anglo- Indian buffet on Saturdays. 


Wild Garden Cafe at Amethyst

very popular with ex-pats, all day breakfast, afternoon teas and a mix of other stuff, lovely garden and eating areas.


Mylapore - Mylai Karpagambal Mess - authentic Chennai cuisine / Rayars Mess - off of Arundel St has been going for 70 years, try the Mashed Potato Patties and Filtered coffee / Jannal Kadai - Ponnambala Vathiyar St for vegetable bajjis and other snacks


Adyur - upmarket neighbourhood known for its good food. Chennai Magic does food walking tours through here. They also organise cooking classes.


Madras Curry Cup

for curry in a hurry


Ratna Cafe - 

opened in 1948 for Tiffin, South Indian


Ponnusamy Hotel - famous for its Bahubali Thali Platter with 50 items. Don't attempt this alone.


Royal Sandwich

bizarre but wildly popular combinations at Alwarpet


Burma Bazaar

many Tamils returned to Chennai from Burma due to the political unrest and they brought their cuisine with them.


 Sundari Akka Kadai

down the beach for a seafood feast


Mahabalipuram - Fishing village with fresh seafood

Moonrocks

for seafood


Le Yogi

North Indian, seafood and sea views


Wharf 2.0

beachside restaurant at Raddison Blu


Bob Marley Cafe

on the beach


Siesta

rooftop seating


Puducherry -  Creole Cuisine - Franco - Tamil fusion

Le Cafe

24 hours, waterfront, famous, popular, ice cream, people watching, souvenirs and top of the list


Coromandel Cafe

Whisky teas, coffee, cakes and great food - close to the hotels


Baker Street

French treats plus mains


Crepe in Touch

great for brunch, savoury and sweet crepes plus a souvenir shop


Satsanga

al fresco seating and possibly the best cafe in town


Auroville Bakery and Boulangerie

garden seating and cinnamon rolls


Zuka

a must for chocoholics


Hot Breads

another one of the best, great breakfast and sweet treats


Les Saveurs

for a good French meal


Palais de Mahe

rooftop terrace with fusion dishes - Kasha ki Aasha also rooftop - Lighthouse Rooftop Grill


STREETFOOD

Mutton Samosas - look for the lines opposite the Railway Station before 7pm

Mushroom Bondas - Mission Street, early evening until sold out - also look for mutton rolls


Ranga Pillai St - famous seafood cart opposite Nilgiris Green Field


Gelateria Montecatini Terme

for your afternoon ice cream hit


Yercaud -

Rooftop restaurant at the hotel


Sri Saravana Bhavan Elite

famous local featuring South Indian


Dine-in Cliff

preserving lost recipes


Green Park Restaurant

open air with great views of the lake, mix of cuisines east and west


Tiruchirappalli -

Vasanta Bhavan

for views over the Temple Pond and vegetarian Thali


Lunch at Chellamal Samayal  - 

vegetarian specially cooked in clay pots over fire. Solely run by women and featuring regional dishes from Tamil Nadu served on banana leaves


Thendral

roof garden with BBQ and tandoori


Kannapa Chettinad Restaurant

for high class Chettinad cuisine


Madurai - Food Capital of Tamil Nadu

Moon Deck - outdoor bespoke dining with city light views at the hotel


The Madurai Residency

rooftop restaurant


Murugan Idli Shop

has the best South Indian in town


Mutton Chukka

famous in this region, see if you can keep it down 😂


Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Thangis Kitchen

seafood


My Home - ice cream nearby - ShakeS & SnackS


Thiruchendur -

Anandham Roof Garden

at the Hotel Udhayam International


Kanyakumari -

Kothu Parotta

chopped fried parotta (layered flatbread) egg and meat in a spicy sauce.


Appam

pancake made with fermented rice batter and coconut milk. Fried on one side and steamed on the other.


Aval

beaten rice mixed with jaggery (Palm sugar) and coconut.


Sea View Restaurant

at the Seashore Hotel, outdoor roof top with views of the 2 islands and their statues


Kovalam Beach -

German Bakery

great for an al fresco brunch


Swiss Cafe

for....Swiss food


Beachfront promenade lined with open air restaurants


Varkala Beach -

The Juice Shack

laid back place with great masalas (seafood and veg)


Mama Kumari's - for a 14 course vegetarian extravaganza


Tibetan Kitchen

Varkala has a large Tibetan population - great views from this wonderful rooftop restaurant. Try all the Tibetan staples and wash it down with some traditional Tibetan butter tea.


Soul Food Cafe

Cliff top garden with platters of tasty treats


Alleppey -

Himalaya Cafe -  

Coffee, chai, pastries and their banana walnut cake


Chakara Restaurant

Rooftop overlooking the Arabian Sea with excellent seafood


Mushroom

Open air restaurant for tandoori and cold beer. Plus a signature Mushroom Soup.


Thekkady -

Ambara

the coffee shop Tree House at Green Woods Resort for the experience alone, great views


French Restaurant & Bakery

great for brunch, or any time


Coffee Garden

rooftop restaurant with good views, ambiance and food


Ebony's Cafe

rooftop place with good food


Munnar -

High Range Club

dress up, step back in time and have a classic meal


Fort Kochi -

Fort  House Restaurant

on an unused pier with a clear ocean view, Keralan cuisine like Prawn and Mango curry and try the stewed figs with vanilla ice cream


1788 Restaurant

at the Old Harbour Hotel, by the pool with BBQ seafood platters

1788 Restaurant - Colonial style and a bar with water views, has some classic dishes from the days of the British Raj like Railway Mutton Curry


Seagull

by the sea with good seafood and drinks


Old Harbour Hotel

beautiful garden restaurant


Rice Boat

with the Arabian Sea lapping at the windows try out their lobster dishes



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Drink -

Chennai -

Kalathi Rose Milk Shop

For a refreshing drink that has been around for close to a hundred years


Filter coffee is a famous local staple


Chennai is home to Kollywood, local rival to Bollywood. Catch one of the local releases at the Sathyam Cinemas.


Bay 146 - in your hotel (Savera) DJ nights and live music


Sera - The Tapas Bar - very close and has music and dancing on a Friday night


Mahabalipuram -

Plenty of restaurants and shops in the Fisherman colony on Othavadai Street


Puducherry -

The city is not a part of Tamil Nadu so those alcohol taxes do not apply

Le Club / Bamboo Bar / Paradise Lounge / St James Court Beach Bar / Zero House Bar / The Rooftop Bar

Yercaud -

Cloud 9 Bar - at your hotel


Tiruchirappalli -

On the roof - at your hotel


Madurai -

Surya

rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Supreme for iced coffee


Thiramulai Nayak Palace - 

Sound and light show every night


Harvey's Lounge Bar at the hotel


Thiruchendur -

Sri Krishna Cinemas


Kanyakumari -

The hotels have bars


Kovalam Beach -

Rooftop Bar


Varkala Beach -

Cafe del Mar

great place to start the day with a coffee and a mesmerising view


Coffee Temple

for cardamom coffee


Darjeeling Cafe

very lively at night with DJ's and a big range of beers and cocktails


Many places along the cliff have happy hours and offer buy one get one free cocktails


Rock n Roll - have parties and play music late into the night


Garden Bistro / Sunset bar / Rock Cafe - all have live music and are open late


Alleppey -

Indian Coffee House -

running since Colonial times, locally famous for its range of coffees and South Indian dishes


The Harbour Restaurant -

in the Raheem Residency Hotel, relaxed beachside and serves beers during the day


Toddy Shops and Beer Parlours 

or go to the bottle shop and drink at home by the lake and on the houseboat

Many of the restaurants in town serve alcohol


Thekkady -

Cultural Shows

Tribal Dancing, Shadow puppets, Martial arts


Hotel Bar


Jungle Night Patrol


Munnar -

Punarjani Traditional Village

evening cultural show - dance drama with stunning make-up


High Range Club

for the Gentlemen Planters opened as the Gymkhana Club in 1905 - step back in time to the British Raj - strictly formal dress after 7pm


Fort Kochi -

Club 18

has over 38 cocktails a 10,000 watt sound system and an outdoor pool


The XL Bar - cold beer and loud music


The Cochin Fort Hotel - has a beer garden



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Sunsets -

Chennai -

Head out early to the broken bridge (star of several Kollywood movies) to see the sun come up on the Bay of Bengal. Also good for sunset but don't hang around too long because it's a popular spot for criminals and ghosts.


Marina Beach

like a carnival with amusement rides and food stalls. It is 13 kms long and is the 2nd longest urban beach in the world. (the longest is Praia do Cassino in Brazil) Forget about going for a swim because there are dangerous currents.


Besant Nagar Beach (Bessie)

with cafes, restaurants and dessert shops.


St Thomas Mont

1 hour climb to really see the sunset


Kipling Cafe 

down the ECR.


Mahabalipuram -

The Shore temple

sunrise and sunset


Puducherry -

Stroll down the beachside promenade - no traffic between 6pm - 7.30am


Serenity Beach


Bay of Buddha

happy hour 4pm - 7pm - beer and snacks with a view


Seagulls

sea view balcony


Yercaud -

Sunrise or Sunset from anyone of the viewpoints


Tiruchirappalli -

Sunrise and Sunset at the Rock Fort Temple


Madurai -

Sunrise or Sunset at Samanar Hills

rock caves where Jain monks used to live with drawings and a Lotus Temple


Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Shri Ram Setu View Point


Thiruchendur -

Down the beach


Kanyakumari -

Some of the best sunrises and sunsets in India. Sunrise looking out to the Thiruvalluvar statue or Sunrise Point and Sunset from Sunset Point viewing tower. At certain times of the year the moon rises as the sun sets. Kumari Amman Temple is another sunset watching spot. The only place in India where you can see the sunrise and sunset.


Kovalam Beach -

Everywhere / The Sky Bar / The Lighthouse / Curry Leaf Restaurant / WWW rooftop bar at The Turtle on the Beach / Edakulla - between Lighthouse and Hawah beaches


Varkala Beach -

Everywhere - crystal clear waters with dolphins swimming around at sunset.


Sky Lounge - good cocktails


Alleppey -

From the houseboat - see the sunset make the Kerala Backwaters even more stunning.


Alleppey Beach - can get a feed and a drink with great sunsets but 

don't swim as there are strong currents


At Alleppey Beach with a lighthouse


Thekkady -

Chellarcovil View Point - 

a picturesque location for a mesmerising sunset


7 am boat trip for an amazing sunrise on Periyar Lake


Munnar -

Pothamedu View Point

for Sunrise or Sunset


Fort Kochi -

At the Chinese fishing nets


Sunset Cruise - past the Chinese fishing nets


Vasco da Gama Square - by the beach



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Tips -

· Rinse your Thali leaf with bottled water before the food gets piled on it - it's not rude

· If you're looking for something to read why not try Ramayana, translated by Kamala Subramaniam

· Don't swim at Hawah aka Eve Beach at Kovalam as it has strong currents



Safety -

Don't leave your things in the tuk tuk unattended

Always park overnight in secure hotel parking

Don't drive at night / Don't drink and drive / Take a break if you're tired

Drive carefully and focussed / Don't rely on your brakes too much

Take corners slowly / Come down hills slowly

Be ready to get out of the way quickly / Fill up often / Check everything before you head off / Use your horn often

Have Fun


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Specialties -

Chennai -

Filter Coffee / Sundal - spiced chick pea snack / Ambur Biryani / Chettinad food


Mahabalipuram -

Miniature figures made of granite


Puducherry -

Macarons / Baguettes / Croissants / Sri Venkateshwara Sweets


Tiruchirappalli -

Powdered milk desserts


Madurai -

Chukkumalli Coffee

a medicinal coffee hundreds of years old made of spices, ginger and jaggery (palm sugar)


Jigarthanda

cool drink made of almond, condensed milk, sarsaparilla and ice cream


Mandapam / Rameshwaram -

Fresh fish and seafood


Kanyakumari -

Banana Chips / Cashews


Kovalam Beach -

Seafood


Varkala Beach -

Cardamom Coffee - at Coffee Temple


Alleppey -

Alleppey Fish Curry


Thekkady -

Tea / Coffee / Spices


Munnar -

Cardamom Tea


Fort Kochi -

Banana fritters with Beef roast 


Breudher - a yeasted bread from the Dutch



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Souvenirs -

Handicrafts from Auroville market


The gift shop at Le Cafe in Pondicherry


Pepper and Gowri Estate Coffee in Yercaud


Trichinopoly Cigars in Trichy


Painted shells (with your name if you want) - Kanyakumari


The Tibetan Market in Varkala for some interesting items


Buy spices in Thekkady which is famous for its plantations


Buy Tea from the plantations in Munnar


Tellicherry and Malabar pepper from the International Pepper Market in Fort Kochi


Curry Powder / A filter coffee maker / Kathakali Masks / Temple Paintings / Ayurvedic Oils


Keep an eye out for something Tuk Tuk related



Extra -

Have a look at India's Toy Trains in Train Trips and you can keep this trip going with Fort Kochi to Fort Bombay in Motorbike Loops and Tuk Tuk Trips


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