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Country Guide
COUNTRY GUIDE
Penang
BEST TIME TO GO - The weather varies between the East and West coasts of Malaysia.
Best months are June - August for the East coast and it is wet between September and March.
Best for the West are December - February and wettest are September and October.
Because it is near the equator it is always hot and humid except for the highlands.
The best tome to visit Borneo Malaysia is between March and October when it is driest.
You're always going to get some rain in the tropics and it doesn't hang around that long, so really you can go anytime.
STAY -Most hotels are available onBooking.comunless otherwise stated. It's best to get bookings with free cancellation and pay on site when you get there. Hotels chosen are usually 3*** or 4 or 5 if they are good value. They are chosen firstly for their location, value for money, positive testimonials regarding cleanliness and service and features like rooftop terraces and great views.
Since the end of Covid a lot of prices have gone through the roof. So if the selected hotel is out of your price range click on the location map and choose something cheaper nearby. Or you might prefer something else but try to stay in the same area. Generally hotels are reasonably priced in Malaysia.
FLIGHTS - Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KUL) has 2 separate terminals. KLIA (KUL) is the main one and the cheap airlines are based at KLIA2 (KUL). Basically they share the same runway and both are pretty good especially if you like Malaysian food.
You may find yourself arriving at one terminal and flying out of the other. There is a convenient free shuttle linking them and there is reasonably priced accommodation with the Air Asia related Tune Hotel.
Between the two of them they have a lot of connections around Asia and transport connections into Kuala Lumpur.
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Once you have bought your airline tickets don't forget to get some travel insurance to cover your investment
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BUDGET - Malaysia is s reasonably cheap country to travel in. There is a good range of accommodation at different prices. Food, drinks and transport are cheap. Alcoholic drinks at upmarket places can be as expensive as the west. If you have a motorbike license be sure to take an International License with you as scooters are a good and cheap way to get around. Unlike many Asian countries most places insist on seeing a license.
BOOKINGS - Go through the trip and book accommodation, rental cars, transport, tours etc. before you leave. Get travel insurance as soon as you book your airline tickets to cover yourself.
The resort with the world's biggest number of pools
The Jungle Train - one of SE Asia's great train journeys - not so much jungle anymore :-(
Pineapple tarts in Melaka & Rojak & Satay Celup & Chicken rice balls & Peranakan cuisine
kuala lumpur - 3n
Fly into Kuala Lumpur airport and take the Express train into the city. If there's more than two of you a taxi should be cheaper. A hotel close to food street Jalan Alor and the bars of Changkat Bukit Bintang is the place to be.
Stay at or near Stay with Bintang **** - big refurbished hotel in the perfect location with an outdoor pool and buffet breakfast included
KL has plenty to offer and may surprise you. Food, shopping, nightlife, history, it's all here. The first place you should head for on your first evening is Jalan Alor - street food capital of KL. Cheap beer and people watching means you can easily spend a cheap night here.
Should you want to go upmarket Changkat Bukit Bintang is just around the corner - I recommend one meal at least at the hidden treasure that is the Old China Café (a great place to try durian or the first time) - Chinatown is also a must for a night out eating and drinking - the shopping centres have some great food halls, Lot 10 Hutong is a good one and any time you see an Old Town White Coffee in the country just go in and have a tea / coffee or snack if you're feeling peckish.
For daytime activities visit the Batu Caves - get an early start if you want to go up the Petronas Towers, or you can go up the KL Tower and look at the Petronas towers - High tea at the Majestic Hotel in the Orchid Observatory. Check out the tours at the bottom of the Country Guide above.
Off to the Cameron Highlands to work off those extra kilos you have just put on in KL. You can catch a train from KL Sentral to Kampar then take a taxi. The cheapest way is by bus from Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) to Tanah Ratawhere you will be staying. Just take the Metro from Hang Tuah Station to Bandar Tasik Selatan to get to the bus station in KL or a cab might be easier.
cameron highlands - 3n
To comfort homesick Brits back in the days of British Malaya they recreated Blighty by planting tea, roses, strawberries and put in a golf course. Now it is a popular weekend getaway for locals. This is where Jim Thompson of Thai silk fame went missing back in 1967. There have been many theories about what happened to him but it still remains a mystery to this day. You can have Afternoon Tea at his Tearoom in the Cameron Highlands resort.
The cheapest way to get around here is by scooter but you'll need a license. Otherwise there are taxis (which you can hire by the hour - be a tough negotiator) or hire cars. You could also do half day tours.
Stay in or near the ATS Cameron Hotel- in Tanah Rata not too far from the bus terminal. The town is quite walkable and has everything you need.
ipoh - 2n
Ipoh is a 2 hour bus ride away. It is the home of Malaysia's oldest restaurant the FMS (Federation of Malay States - now called Durbar at FMS). It is also the birthplace of Old Town White Coffee. The Kinta River divides Ipoh into Old Town and New Town and Ipoh White Coffee was invented here. It refers to the process of roasting the beans in palm oil margarine. Old Kopitiams (Coffee shops) are famous here and an important part of the towns history. Lonely Planet named it as one of Asia's 3 coffee hotspots. And they sell a lot more than coffee!
Also Ipoh is also famous for it's Dim Sum. Being a Tin Mining town it had a lot of Chinese labourers and this always leads to Dim Sum. Jalan Leong Sin Nam is known as "Dim Sum Street". Between the Cafes and this you should be pretty well set for breakfast while you're here so skip the brekkie option at your hotel.
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The First One - Ipoh
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Have a look at tours below which include Ipoh and Penang. You can also use trip #2 as a transfer between the two cities.
penang - 3n
Penang - "the Pearl of the Orient" with its UNESCO listed capital is probably the best known tourist destination in Malaysia. Originally it was one of the Straits Settlements along with Malacca, Singapore and Labuan Island. They are all very different places nowadays.
Take the 2 hour high speed train from Ipoh to Butterworth. From there you can cross over to Georgetown by ferry or take a taxi across the bridge. Or you could use tour #2 below as a transfer to Butterworth.
Or the Sarkies Brothers (of Raffles fame) gem the Eastern & Oriental ***** - check for specials the price can be quite reasonable for this iconic hotel with 2 swimming pools, 3 restaurants and a spa & wellness centre
Penang is a mix of the old and the new and is known as the food capital of Malaysia. Penang Hill is the oldest British hill-station in SE Asia. There are a variety of attractions that will keep you busy such as a visit to the venerable Eastern & Oriental Hotel for English Afternoon Tea in the Palm Court. This hotel was opened by the Sarkies brothers who also created Raffles in Singapore and The Strand in Yangon and a couple of others - a day on the beach at Batu Ferringhi - the Penang War Museum - Fort Cornwallis - temples, mosques, street art and other famous sights.
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Penang Tours
Penang ToursPenang Tours
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View from the E & O
Penang is also famous for its food which is abundant and comes in many varieties. It's Street Food and Hawker Centres are legendary, then there is Malay, Nonya, Indian and Chinese cuisines which are done equally as well. And be warned it can be surprisingly spicy. If you're a laksa fanatic just be aware that Penang Laksa (aka Asam Laksa) is completely different to the other ones. Think sour, fish and pineapple.
There is plenty of nightlife here too with some newly included rooftop bars.
Tanah Merah - 1n
Make your way across the peninsula by bus to Tanah Merah which will take around 7 hours. Tanah Merah means Red Earth and surprisingly there is a suburb in Brisbane, Australia with this same name. Spend the night here before boarding the scenic Jungle Train to Dabong. Seat rows 8 - 15 face forward. 1 and 15 have no windows. Usually there are empty seats if you need to move. Take some snacks and drinks, but you should see vendors along the way. See the timetable for times in the Jungle Train link.
There are restaurants in the street one block north and Pasar malam tanah merah (which means Night Market) is a 5 minute walk away.
Small towns in Malaysia don't tend to have a lot of bars but you can get a beer at the restaurants.
Dabong - 1n
You should be able to catch the late morning train and arrive here in time to see Jelawang Waterfall - SE Asia's tallest. You might have time to see the nearby caves as well where one features the magical "God Light".
You should be able to catch the 7.37 am train - change at Gua Musang at 9.47 am and arrive at Kuala Lipis at 12.40 pm. All times mentioned are of course very loose. Kuala Lipis is a charming riverine town with colonial buildings. Spend a night here before heading into Taman Negara by boat tomorrow.
Stay at the Hotel Bestari ** - a 15 minute walk to the train station.
Taman Negara - 4n
Hire a car and driver to get you to Kuala Tembeling ferry port and take the 3 hour boat trip to Kuala Tahan. Boat trip can depend on river levels at the time. Spend the afternoon settling in and taking in the surroundings. Taman Negara means National Park and this one encompasses a 130 million year old rain forest so it's pretty special. You'll have a couple of days to explore it as adventurously or relaxed as you like. There is trekking, a canopy walk, night safaris, rapid shooting and a lot more to spend your time on.
A day or two before you leave ring Elizabeth on +607 799 1639 to book your dinner for your night in Mersing at Toke Lien Yuen Restaurant. Their hours are 6.30 pm to 8.30 pm and bookings are required.
Stay at or near Mutiara Taman Negara Resort **** - jungle hideaway accessed by boat includes breakfast and dinner. The Resort organises a lot of activities.
Catch the boat across the river for lunch at the floating restaurants.
Mersing - 1n
A few bus trips coming up as you make your way to Tioman Island. About 9 hours today so you'll need an early start. See what the local travel agents say. You may need to get a car and driver down to Jerantut an hour south by 8am or 8.30am to be there in time to get one of the busses to Kuantan which should arrive between 11 am and 12 noon. Then you will catch the 12.03, 12.10pm, 1pm or 2pm bus down to Mersing which should arrive 4 hours later. There may be a direct bus you can take from Jerantut that goes via Kemaman north of Kuantan. Just check with the locals at Kuala Tanah. You should be able to book them all online.
Stay at the Hotel Seri Malaysia Mersing *** - which is a kilometer away from the ferry dock, it has an outdoor swimming pool, Malaysian Restaurant, table tennis and 24 hour desk.
tioman island - 4n
It could be an early start depending on what day of the week it is to catch the ferry over to duty free Tioman Island where the booze and other essentials will be a bargain. There are around 3 a day and it takes a couple of hours. The Island starred as Bali Hai in South Pacific and Time magazine named it one of the world's most beautiful islands back in the 1970's.
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Or The Station Tioman - bungalow on the beach with a coral reef for snorkelling and a few bars and restaurants nearby
Or atABC Chalet Tioman- beachfront in the liveliest area with restaurants and bars, has it's own restaurant and BBQ facilities, 700m from ABC jetty, shuttle service and bike rental
If you enjoyed dinner the other night in Mersing or missed it you might want to make a booking for lunch when you arrive back on the ferry. This is a very rare restaurant and you might not get to eat somewhere like this again. Lunch hours are 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm.
Catch the early ferry and you should have time to have lunch in the Loke Tien Yuen Restaurant which is over a hundred years old. It is Cantonese and there are very few of these left in Malaysia and Singapore. Some people drive 150 km just to come and eat here.
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Tioman Island Tours
Tioman Island ToursTioman Island Tours
melaka - 3n
Next stop is another of the Straits Settlements and a popular favourite - Malacca (Or, with the new spelling Melaka). It's about 4 hours on the bus. Food and history buffs will especially enjoy this town. Everything is in walking distance. Over the years it has been colonised by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British and the Japanese. It has been granted UNESCO World Heritage status. The highlight is the Jonker Street Night Market in the centre of Chinatown.
Don't miss the opportunity to try plenty of Nonya foodwhile you are here. And the local specialties. Capitol Satay is famous around these parts and well worth a visit.
For drinks try the Geographers Café -and the Casa del Rio rooftop Bar Solby the infinity pool and riverside Bar Rio - also a stroll along the Melaka River will turn up a few gems
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Port dickson - 3n
Time for a bit of beach / pool time to relax and end up the trip. Port Dickson aka PD is the closest beach to KL and has a lot of visitors on the weekends. Take a bus or see if you can get a cheap transfer by car which is a lot quicker. It's about an hour by car which is more direct than the bus which goes via the airport.
There are great deals on 4**** and 5***** accommodation here so check out the specials and live it up for a few days. Maybe an Over-water Chalet. Here's a couple to get you started. Thistle Port Dickson *****- 3 restaurants, 2 swimming pools, beachfront
Have a round of golf, a spa day, a nice long seafood lunch or just hang around the pool. A scooter is the easiest and cheapest way to get around here. Some hotels hand them out for free. Go for a sunset cruise.
Unwind for a few days before heading back to KL and on to the next adventure. It's only 90 km to the airport so you can depart straight from here without having to go back to KL. You should be able to negotiate a taxi for a reasonable price or try Uber.
Fly in and out of KL (see the trip above if you want to spend a few nights in KL) with cheap transfers to Borneo. Check out the tours for KL at the bottom of the Country Guide at the top of the page.
Fly into Kuching and out of Sandakan - Air Asia is likely your best bet for these tickets. Take a taxi from the airport or the bus station is a short walk away.
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Sarawak State Legislative Assembly
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Kuching Tours
Kuching ToursKuching Tours
Stay ator nearby the Kuching Waterfront Lodgeon Jalan Main Bazaar. It is located close to everything of interest and set in a beautiful old building full of charm.
There are a number of laksa varieties and Sarawak Laksa is one of the best. And it's dirt cheap to boot. Kuching is a foodie heaven with many cultures involved. Don't miss the atmospheric Siniawan Old Town Night Market on Friday - Sunday evenings.
The Cultural Village is well done and worth the entrance fee. Time it to be finished for sunset when you can cross the road and enjoy a few sundowners at the beach bar. Kuching is filled with interesting architecture and is a great city just to wander around. You can visit the Orangutans at the Semenggoh Nature Reserve but you will also be seeing them in Sepilok later if you don't want to double up.
You could do your longhouse overnighter from here at Annah Rais in the Padawan District. They have hot springs there. If you go to the waterfront tourist shops you will be able to organise one or jump on someone else's. I recommend one night but you may want more. If you don't want to spend the night have a look at this half day trip.
It is very easy to spend hours just wandering up and down the riverside promenade as well as other parts of this visually striking town.
There are plenty of pubs and bars to occupy your evenings and having a beer or two along the riverfront and watching the world go by isn't one of the worst things to do.
Sibu - 3N + 1N
From the Cat City to the Swan City - Sibu by 5 hour ferry trip. Take a taxi to the Express Boat Passenger Terminal and the boat from there. It leaves at 8.30 am each day and you need to be on board by 8.00 am. You should be able too sort your tickets out in town with a travel agent or you can book them online here.
This is Sarawak's most Chinese town and has the largest town square in Malaysia. It also has great night market, good seafood and authentic Foochow cuisine for starters. Hundreds of Foochow Chinese migrated here during Colonial times and they brought with them the iconic Foochow Bagel or Kompia which get stuffed with stewed pork. They were invented by the military and soldiers used to march along with them strung around their waists.
Stay at or near the Kingwood Hotel Sibu *** - riverside, outdoor pool, gym, 2 restaurants, halal breakfast included
Time to go native and visit a Longhouse. 2 days 1 night is probably enough and it would be best to go by boat and come back by road. You can organise it yourself through the Iban Longhouse Homestay website. Or you could do a tour with a travel agent. You can customise it as much as you want. Speak to them before you go and see exactly what is included, such as accommodation and meals. Some longhouses have separate accommodation which is more comfortable and gives you some privacy. Normally they have a minimum of 4 people so you could hook up with some other travellers to save some money.
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Longhouse
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Miri Tours
Miri ToursMiri Tours
You may be able to take the cheap afternoon flight to Miri, Sarawak's second city and known as "Oil City" due to the discovery of oil offshore in the 1970's. Otherwise have another night in Sibu or an extra night in the longhouse and fly in the morning. Or it's 7½ hours on the bus if you want to save the money.
Check out the Miri tours above ⬆️ for some of the attractions below ⬇️. If you are interested in the Bario Highlands side trip the return airfares from Miri to Bario are very cheap.
miri - 3n
A day trip from here will be to the world famous Niah Caves. Learn about all things "Oil" at the Petroleum Museum and see Malaysia's first oil well (time it with sunset - see Canada Hill link), enjoy some wonderful equatorial sunsets from various vantage points such as Canada Hill, the rooftop bar at the Meritz Hotel with a cocktail and Sarawak's best beach - Brighton or Tanjung Lobang. After the sun has set fresh seafood awaits you If your luck is in you may be able to witness the amazing "Blue Tears" at Tusan Beach.
Stay at or near the Mercure Miri City Centre ****- great location near shopping centres, restaurants and bars, outdoor pool, gym, 3 restaurants, bar
Bandar seri begawan - 3n
Take the bus and depart Malaysia for a few days and check out the oil rich Sultanate of Brunei Darussalam. You'll need to behave as the rules are very strict here. There's enough of interest to make it worthwhile staying in Bandar Seri Begawan or BSB for a few days. See what you buy for the man who's got everything at the Royal Regalia Museum. Catch a water taxi out to have a look at the amazing Water Village where 13,000 people live. Or you can even stay there - see below. There are some top notch golf courses around including the very exclusive Royal Brunei Golf and Country Club, described by its designer as the Augusta of Asia.
Stay at or near the Qing Yun Resthouse Bandar, Brunei Darussalam - good location on the waterfront and within walking distance of most of the attractions
Or if you are feeling adventurous how about Kunyit 7 Lodge in the world's largest stilted settlement with 40 villages connected by 38 km of boardwalks. Terrace with city views.
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BSB Tours
BSB ToursBSB Tours
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LABUAN ISLAND - 3N
Head down to the Seresa Ferry Terminal and make your way to the "Pearl of Borneo" - duty free Labuan Island. Firstly Penang, Malacca, Singapore and then Labuan became the Straits Settlements back in the days of the spice trade. They were set up to compete with the Dutch East India Company and were originally run by the British East India Company before being handed over to the British Crown. Today Labuan is a financial centre and duty free port. There is some good wreck diving for beginners and a bit of WW2 history as well as some more attractions to make it a worthwhile stop, off the beaten track.
Enjoy a bit of cheap luxury and stay at one of these resorts. Hopefully one will have a special on. At the north end of the island is Palm Beach Resort & SPA ****
For a cheapish 5***** try the Tiara Labuan Hotel ***** which is just out of town - the island is quite small so it doesn't really matter where you stay. It has an outside pool, restaurant, bar, gym and breakfast is included.
A good way to get around is by rented bicycle. Car rental is also cheap.
Beer and alcohol is cheap here thanks to the duty free status and most of the drinking of it will be found in the restaurants.
Kuala penyu / pulau tiga - 1n
Take the first speed boat to Menumbok which should get you there by 8.00 am. This will give you 2 hours (taxi should take 40 minutes) to get to Kuala Penyu and the Pulau Tiga jettyfor the 10.00 am ferry to Pulau Tiga. If you are just doing the day trip you should have time to check in and drop your bags off before heading top the ferry. Also known as Survivor Island this was the location for the very first season which aired back in the year 2000 and won by Richard Hatch.
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Highlights include still active volcano mud baths, walking trails, snake island, enjoy the beach and some snorkelling and have a meal and a few drinks at the resort.
You can come here for a day trip and catch the last ferry back to Kuala Penyu and spend the night at or near the Blue Eyes Beach Resort.
Or you could stay overnight on the island but your choices are a really expensive resort (Think thousands of dollars and a 2 night minimum) or Pulau Tiga Resort (not on Booking.com - keep your windows shut to keep out thieving monkeys) which could be a little run down.
You can take the regular 2 hour train (the only train in Borneo) from Beaufort to Kota Kinabalu. But a much more romantic way would be to get off in Papar and then catch the old North Borneo Railway Steam Train in. This only runs on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It is sold as a package from Kota Kinabalu (Tanjung Aru Station) with meals and costumed stewards so it is more expensive and you may not be able to do it one way. Go to the train station in Beaufort to find out. If you're a train buff you might want to do the whole half day trip from Kota Kinabalu and if you're not just hop on the normal train or bus if the departure time is better.
Spend a few nights in the capital of Sabah ("the land below the wind"), Kota Kinabalu (KK for short). The waterfront has restaurants and bars all along it and then you have the Night, Seafood and Filipino Markets. Lots of great food and the Bornean sunsets are legendary. Tangjung Aru beach and nearby Sunset Barat the Shangri-La are a must, or perhaps the Breeze Beach Club at the Sutera Harbour Resort. Lots of attractions and entertainment and good value accommodation so it should be good fun.
Stay atCJ Residence ***- good central location and value for money
Or for another cheap 5***** the Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu ***** - Outdoor pool, 4 restaurants, sunset at the rooftop bar, spa & wellness centre, gym
Or anywhere near the Night Markets.
KK was almost razed to the ground during WWII - by the people trying to save it!! As most of the buildings were destroyed it is a fairly new looking city. It has an impressive waterfront which is the place to be for sundowners and evening entertainment. If you can get out of bed early enough it's worth going to the City Mosque for sunrise.
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KK Tours
KK ToursKK Tours
Other excursions include the House of Skulls aka the Monsopiad Cultural Village - or there's the Mari Mari Cultural Village, where you will learn the culture of the 5 main tribes of NE Boerneo - Golf, there is the stunning Sutera Harbour Marina, Golf & Country Club a 27 hole championship course designed by Graham Marsh (they also have night golf) and there are another three worthy courses in town also as well as diving, a boat trip to the stilted village. If you have three spare days you could get your PADI Open Water Diver Certification.
Plenty to do around here of an evening as well - for dinner and some local culture Borneo Night is the place to be - a typical eveningmight look like this and here's the makings of IY pub crawl.
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ranau - 2n
Hire a car(and drop it off at Sandakan Airport in 3 or 4 days time - see Sepilok below) and you're on the road to the spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Listed Kinabalu Park and Ranau. If you are unable to secure a rental car that you can drop off at Sandakan Airport you could get one for a couple of days for this section, return it in Kota Kinabalu and then take the daily shuttleto Sepilok from Kota Kinabalu. Or you could get a private car and driver. You could also do some day tours from KK - see KK Tours above☝️.
Along the way you should see plenty of roadside stallsbarbequing wild boar. If you're fit, organised and keen you can climb the tallest mountain in SE Asia - Mount Kinabalu, not counting the ones that are part of the Himalayas or New Guinea. It's a two day trek and only a certain number of are allowed on the mountain each day. There are organised tours for it to save the hassles (see more in KK Tours above⬆️). If you're not a mountain climber there are plenty of trails and flora and fauna to enjoy. Either way at the end of the day you'll be able to soothe away the aches and pains at the Poring Hot Springswhich the Japanese kindly developed in WW2. There is also a pretty spectacular golf course, the highest in Sabah with Mount Kinabalu as the backdrop, Tea and Strawberry Gardens and Sandakan Death March Memorials (it ended here and you can retrace a few sections if you like). It should be an interesting and special couple of days. Especially if you climb the mountain.
Stay at or near the Sutera Sanctuary Lodges At Poring Hot Springs (Free Parking) and book as far ahead as possible. Outdoor pool, sulphur bath, restaurant with open air seating, activities, bar
Drive to Sepilok today the home of the famous orphaned Orangutans. Drop the car off at Sandakan Airport today or tomorrow. It's only a cheap 15 minute taxi ride back to your accommodation.
Or the much cheaper Sepilok Jungle Resort ** - Outdoor pool, cafes and a restaurant, BBQ areas, close to the attractions, bar
Or the Borneo Sepilok Rainforest Resort - upscale resort that has cheap dorm beds, outdoor pool, restaurant, pool, good location, breakfast buffet included.
The famous orphaned Orangutans at Sepilok are just down the road from the resorts. There is a Sun Bear sanctuary next door and up the road is a Rainforest Discovery Centre with a Canopy Walk. They have jungle trails around a lake and do a night safari as well. Spend a couple of nights here enjoying nature.
Kinabatangan river cruise - 2n
Time to go off on your Kinabatangan River adventure. If the trip above isn't to your liking there are plenty to choose from in the Sepilok area. It is all full board with transportation, meals and accommodation (check you have a riverside resort) included. This will be one of the major highlights in a trip full of them. There are only two places in the world like this. So enjoy.
sandakan - 3n
Get them to drop you off at or near the Hotel Sandakan *** - down by the harbour, 2 restaurants
Or if you just want to relax in a nice hotel by the pool for a few days try the Sabah Hotel ****- both have free parking, on top of a hill surrounded by rainforest with an outdoor pool, 4 restaurants, bar, buffet breakfast included - book early
A scooter is the best way to get around here or you could hire a car or use public transport.
Sandakan was also razed to the ground during WWII so the buildings are all post 1945. A lot happened here back then. The name Sandakan is synonymous with death marches and there were actually 3 of them here and there were only 6 survivors. Those who died were from Australia and Britain. There was another infamous one in the Philippines on the Bataan Peninsula where 10,000 died, mainly Filipinos and some from the USA. Both were judged as war crimes. The Sandakan Memorial Park was the site of the POW Camp and you can download an app for android phones full of information about it.
There are plenty of choices on where to eat while you're out and about. There are some nice places along the harbour front looking out over the water like My Harbour Front. Kampong Buli Sim Sim has a nice ring to it and by now you should know that Kampong means traditional Malay Water Village. This one was the original settlement for Sandakan. There are some great seafood restaurants out on the waters edge and it's worth coming just for the experience. Take bridges 7 and 8 for the restaurants.
When the sun goes down there is the Kim Fung Night Market (Saturdays 5 pm - 10 pm) and there are three main bar areas in town.
If you still have plenty of Ringgit in your wallet you could spend a night out at Turtle Island. Turtles come up on the beach every night of the year to lay their eggs.
You can fly direct from here back to KL with Air Asia.
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