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Campanian Archipelago - 15 N

Campanian Archipelago - 15 N
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  • Itinerary -

Naples 2N - Mainland


Capri Town 4N - Capri Island


Ischia Porto 3N - Ischia Island


Forio di Ischia 3N - Ischia Island


Marina Corricella 3N Procida Island


 = 15N




  •  Islands -

The Campanian Archipelago in the Bay of Naples consist of the Isles of Capri, Ischia, Procida, Vivara and Nisida. 


Capri 

is often described as the most appealing island in the Mediterranean. It is 10 km long and has an area of 15 square kilometres. It has 2 towns, Capri Town the main one plus Anacapri Town on top of Monte Solaro. Capri has been a destination for the rich and famous since the 1950's when the likes of Jackie O, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor put the island on the jet-set map.


Ischia

has 40 kms of coastline (and some of the best beaches around), 6 towns and is the largest of the three islands. Capri is made up of limestone from a Karst origin whereas Ischia is a volcanic island. Hence all of the thermal stuff. Ischia plays 2nd fiddle to her more famous sister Capri but it has a lot going for it and offers a more authentic experience. Neapolitans have been coming here for their holidays for generations.


Procida

was born of a volcano too. Actually it was the eruption of 4 volcanoes. It has 4 square kilometres of area and 16 kms of jagged coastline.  Neapolitans like to come here on weekends.


When you arrive you will be struck by the colourful harbour side village populated by ice cream coloured houses. This is so the fishermen can identify their houses when they are out in their boats. Life carries on at a slow pace, people leave their doors wide open and it doesn't get the tourist numbers the other two islands do. There are no boutique shops or 5* hotels here. Everything you see here is authentic to their way of life. Which is a special treat. Spend a bit of time getting to know the locals. They're very friendly.


Vivara 

is connected to Procida by a footbridge and you can go hiking there but you need to book a guide online 15 days before.


Nisida 

is connected to the mainland by a bridge and isn't a tourist site. Half of the island is taken up by the Navy and a juvenile detention centre.



· Famous -

Naples -

UNESCO Heritage Listed Historic Old Town and Home of Pizza


UNESCO Heritage Listed

Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius and Herculaneum


Capri -

It was a part of the Grand Tour

tourists have been coming since the 1800's


Piazza Umberto 1

World famous public square


The Faraglioni

Three sea stacks, enormous boulders that stick up out of the sea - named Saetta - the tall one, Stella - the romantic one and Scopolo home of the rare Blue Lizard. There is a little fourth one that is often not recognised. Away from the others it is called Monacone. They are the gathering place of the Sirens in Odysseus who would enchant passing sailors with their sweet songs.


Lo struscio a Capri 

(the Capri shuffle) - one of the most famous walks in the world - see and be seen


It is a popular spot for 

celebrities to park their yachts


Designer Shopping - on 

Via Camerelle


Blue Grotto

once a Roman bath


Via Krupp

one of the world's most beautiful footpaths



Ischia -

Castello Aragonese

famous medieval castle from 474 BC - with a couple of cafes


La Fumerole Beach

famous for its fumeroles (health giving thermal vapours)


World famous gardens - The Ravino (Cacti and succulents) and La Mortella Gardens (1958) - even if you're not into gardening


Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton stayed here while filming Cleopatra


Procida -

Parts of the Talented Mr Ripley 

were filmed here and Ischia


Lemons - big and tasty



· Highlights -

Naples -

World's best pizza - great food, coffee and pastries

Underground Naples - guided and self guided tours

Palaces, Castles, Art Galleries , Museums and a six acre Piazza


Capri -

Breathtakingly rugged coastline / seafood / scenery / hikes / beach clubs / night clubs / natural beauty / miniature cars


Ischia -

Sant'Angelo and La Torre and the scenic overlook

Hot Springs and Thermal Mud Spas

Beaches / Food / Nightlife / Views


Procida -

Isola di Vivara / Authenticity / Villages / Relaxation / Seafood / Sunsets



· Visa -

Italy is a Shengen country so the usual rules apply. 90 countries don't need visas and 150 countries do. In 2022 those 90 countries will need to get an online ETIAS authorisation. Check your local embassy to be sure



· Budget -

Top end. This is Italy and a very popular part of it and islands always cost a bit more. Especially Capri. A pair or couple can split the costs and make it more affordable. Have some picnics, walk, hire scooters and find cheap drinking spots to keep costs down a bit. Capri is an elite destination so you might as well play the part and enjoy a few splurges. Budget. What budget? One bonus is that the further the trip goes on the cheaper it will get. So save a bit for Ischia and Procida. You'll get more bang for your buck.



Naples - 3.1 million

Isle of Capri - 12,200

Ischia - 62,027

Procida - 10,496



  • AKA -

Naples - Parthenope / Neapolis / Napoli

Isle of Capri - Kapros / The Emerald Isle / Isola di Capri / (Probably after the Greek for Wild Boar or the Latin for Goat)

Ischia - Pithecusae / The Green Island / Enaria - "The Land of Wine"



  • About -

See Naples and die. Sounds a bit harsh but it was a common expression back in the day meaning the city was so beautiful that once you had seen it you didn't need to see anything else.

Fly in and out of Rome or Naples airports depending on where you are coming from and what flights you can get. Make your way to your hotel in Centro Storico int he heart of old Naples.


See the sights, perhaps a day trip to Pompei, Heculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. Eat lots of pizza and hop around the bars in the UNESCO centre of Naples.


Catch the ferry over to Capri and take the funicular up to your accommodation with a terrace / balcony and a spectacular view of the Gulf of Naples. Spend 4 days living like a millionaire. Eating delicious seafood, discovering the island by scooter, partaking in the islands quirky rituals, celebrity spotting, hiking along the spectacular coastline, lunch and a day at the beach club, catching the sunset with a cocktail, window shopping and dancing the night away. The only thing holding you back will be your credit card limit. Let your hair down and have a good time. But save a bit for the rest of the trip.


Take the ferry over to Ischia the volcanic island that features thermal springs. You're going to be amazed that you've never heard of this stunning island. Time for a good soak. A lot of German and Asian tourists come here for the spa treatments, hot springs and thermal mud. There are a few to pick from. The island has good beaches and some stunning attractions as well. It used to be a quiet place but nowadays it's buzzing with visitors.


Spend the first 3 nights in the harbour and visiting places nearby. Then move to the popular town of Forio where you will have sunset views from the Jacuzzi on your rooftop terrace. You can rent scooters in both towns and see each end of the island. They are only 20 minutes apart but it will be nice to spend a few nights in each to soak up the atmosphere and have enough time to get around to everything you want to see and do.


A short ferry ride will find you on the tiny island of Procida - Italy's Capital of Culture for 2022. The first island ever to get that honour. This means there will be a lot more public art around the place. It doesn't have the glamour and glitz of Capri or the fancy thermal spas on Ischia. What it does have is charm, authenticity and a pleasantly slow pace of life. It's a great place to relax at the end of the trip. It also has its own unique attractions and things to do.


You'll recognise the colourful fishing village from the movie The Talented Mr Ripley that was filmed here. Transfer a short distance to the oldest and most charming little fishing village of Marina Corricella. It's a 15 min walk up hill or you might want to get a boat to take you and your luggage around.


Time to get a ferry back to Naples and then a train back to Rome. Unless of course you are continuing on. See Extras at the end for some ideas.



  • Go - Late September is Best

May to mid October because this is the only time of the year that the Capri to Ischia ferry operates. Also for thinner crowds and cheaper prices. Boat loads of day trippers come across to Capri in Summer (June to August) and swarm the island. Many cafes and restaurants close down in Winter and certain ferry routes don't operate. The Negombo Spa on Ischia closes on October 6.



  • Airports -

Rome - Leonardo Da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport (FCO) -

This is probably the airport you will fly in and out of. There are 211 direct flights to 80 destinations on every continent around the world. There is an express train from the airport to the train station. From Rome to Naples there are 3 classes of trains by speed and price. The choice is 1 hour, 2 hours or 4 hours. The fast one isn't that expensive.


Naples - Naples International Airport (NAP) -

Naples has direct flights to 115 destinations in 33 countries  including New York, Europe, Northern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. So if you can fly directly here it would cut out the train ride from Rome and save time.

Outside Terminal 1 the Alibus shuttle will take you to both ports. Also outside Terminal 1 is a licensed taxi stand. Don't trust any other drivers who approach you.


Hoverfly

offers helicopter transfers from Rome and Naples.


Check here for flights.



  • Ferries - 

Pre book all crossings and double check the day before

From Naples to Capri - 

come from 2 ports. Fast ferries from Molo Beverello and slow ones from Calata di Massa. There is not a lot of difference in the price and you won't need to bring a car over on the slow ferry even if you were allowed. 40 mins for the fast ferry and 80 mins for the slow one. There is another one that takes 50 mins. They get very crowded in Summer.


If you want to go in style try the private transfer.


There is a porter service at the dock which will take your luggage up to your hotel for 5 - 10 Euro per piece. It could save you a lot of headaches as the way is very steep and narrow. You can take the funicular up or take an open top taxi.


Capri to Ischia 

(May to mid October only) - one company with 7 crossings a week that take 70 minutes.


Ischia to Procida - 

there are 3 companies with around 14 crossings per day. It takes 15 to 25 minutes depending on who your with.


Procida to Naples - 

3 companies with 19 sailings per day. It takes 30 - 60 minutes depending on who you're with. 


Catch a train from the port to the train station then a fast train to Rome and then the shuttle train back out to the airport. Allow yourself plenty of time but you should be able to do it in 3 - 4 hours.


There are also speed boats available for charter if you have enough people to make it worthwhile.



  • Stay -

Naples -

In the UNESCO Hertage Listed Historical Old Town - have a look at these from most expensive to cheapest - they are all in a similar area 


Relais San Severo  

(Rooftop terrace)


Casa Hostena  


La Gemma


Corte Capomazza Appartmenti  


La Casa Sul Nilo  

(Apt) 


Bed & Breakfast Medea  

(Terrace)


Capri Town -

Lash out and get a place with a balcony and sea view - Check out the prices on some of these - 


Hotel Esperia *** 


Villa Giardini Luxury B & B


Regina Cristina ****  


If you can afford it try the

Hotel Villa Krupp***


Ischia Porto -

Stay in Ischia Porto hopefully with a harbour view - try 


Pagoda Hotel *** 


Hotel Villa Maria *** 

(Rooftop terrace with harbour views and garden) 


Casa Vacanze Riva Destra


Villa Lentisco 

(Waterfront deck) 


or these ones without a harbour view but nearby - 


Hotel Terme Oriental *** 

(Pool, Sauna, Turkish Bath & heated hydro massage pool) 


Villa Ciccio *** 

(Pool) 


Hotel da Rafaelle ***

(Good value and close to the beach) 


Villa al Porto  

(Great value, garden and good location


Forio Ischia -

One of these two would be good or somewhere nearby - 


Hotel Nettuno **** 

(Rooftop terrace with Jacuzzi and views of the sunset on the water)

  

Hotel Villa Carolina ****

(Great location on the waterfront)


Procida -

In Corricella near the waterfront with a sea view - check these out - 


Chora Kale 

(Apt with Seaview Terrace) 


Hotel La Corricella ***

(Incredible views - terrace overlooking the marina for breakfast and sundowners) 


La Casa di Titina  

(Apt with terrace, sea view and bidet)



There have been peolpe in this area for a long time. There were Greek settlements around here in 2,000 BC. In fact Naples is one of the oldest cities in the world. It became a major cultural centre in the Roman Empire many years later.


The Greeks came to the Isle of Capri in the 8th century BC. During the Roman period the island was "discovered" by the emperor Augustus who took it from Naples and built a Palace. He was succeeded by Tiberius who built a series of Villas including Villa Jovis which you can still see today.


In the 7th century the islanders suffered many attacks from the Saracens who would kidnap them as slaves. In the 17th century the plague came to visit.

In the 18th century the island was taken over by the French, then the English and then the French again.


In 1826 the rediscovery of the Blue Grotto started attracting travellers, artists, writers and then celebrities and the rich and famous. In 1906 one of those writers was the Russian dissident Maxim Gorky who ended up living here for 7 years. He had many Russian visitors on his terrace over the years including one Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. It's not hard to imagine what they might have been talking about.


Another famous visitor around this time was the rich German industrialist Alfred Krupp. Stories started coming in the news papers out about his parties that were frequented by young local men. After receiving incriminating photos in the mail his wife complained to family friend Kaiser Wilhelm who promptly had her locked away in a mental hospital. Krupp was his main supplier of cannon steel.


These days there is the Hotel Villa Krupp and the Via Krupp to remember him by. He commissioned the building of the Via Krupp one of the world's most beautiful footpaths to go from his hotel down to Marina Piccola where he kept his yachts. It turned out he was using this path to attend male sex orgies in a local cave. A scandal ensued and he was asked to leave Italy. He committed suicide a week later in November 1902.


The list of famous residents and regular visitors reads like a who's who of Hollywood A listers, writers, politicians, artists, poets,  Royals and members of the jet set from last century to the present day.


The Greeks were in Ischia in the 7th century BC. In Greek mythology a fire gushing monster named Typhon tried to destroy Zeus. After a torrid battle Zeus imprisoned Typhon underneath the island of Ischia. he sometimes vents his anger with earthquakes, flames and boiling water. Some towns on the island are named after his body parts.


Like Capri they had their Roman era and were invaded by the Saracens and the Barbarians. In 1503 the French attacked and destroyed homes and villages and killed everyone who lived in them. The century continued with raid after raid by Greek and Turkish Pirates. In 1655 the plague came to visit and nearly wiped out the whole population. They were saved by a series of heavy storms that washed the pestilence away.


In the 1950's the foundation for the island's tourism was laid by the building of a hospital, hotels and Thermal Spas to take advantage of the island's over 100 hot springs. The entrepreneur responsible also created an interest from the film industry by making movies here. Ischia has had its fair share of celebrities as well as it's more famous sister. Writers W. H. Auden, Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote, actors Charlie Chaplin, Burt Lancaster, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Peter Sellers, Jack Lemmon, Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Lopez and even Angela Merkel the German leader loves it.


Procida's history 

goes back to between the16th and 15th centuries BC when the Mycenaeans came along. Later on it was the Greeks and the Romans. They suffered raids from the Vandals, Goths and Saracens. Being so close to Naples meant they shared a common history. 


Procida has always had a proud nautical history and has aquired an international reputation for its ship building and Captains. It doesn't attract the celebrities like the other two islands but The Postman and the Talented Mr Ripley have used locations here and it is starting to draw attention to itself. It has been named Italy's Capital of Culture for the year 2022. Which will upset a few locals who aren't in a hurry to have a bunch of tourists running around the place upsetting their peace and tranquility.



· See -

Naples -

Egg  Castle

time your visit to be here for sunset


Capri - Hire a Scooter

The Gardens of Augustus -

 unique flowers and breathtaking views


Wildlife

including quails, robins, Peregrine Falcons, woodcocks, blackbirds, geckos, conger eels and the blue lizard that lives on the Faraglioni named Scopolo


The Natural Arch

best viewed from above


Villa Jovis - Tiberius's house

good views and even better stories


Ischia - Hire a Scooter


BEACHES - There are many others as well


La Fumarole Beach - has its own steam vents which heats the sand which people cover themselves with for its healing properties. They also cook their food in it and it is a popular place at night time


Chiaia di Rose Beach

in the centre of Sant'Angelo and very popular, one side is private $$ and the other public - free


San Francesco and Citara - two of the island's best near Forio


 Cava Grado Beach - 

pleasant little beach just outside Sant'Angelo, has a small restaurant and you can rent sun beds and umbrellas.


San Pietro Beach

one of the largest, popular with younger people playing volleyball and other beach games, some parts you have to pay for amenities


San Montano Beach

near the Negombo Thermal Spa is one the most beautiful with crystal clear waters


Maronti Beach

near Sant'Angelo is the largest and one of the most popular, the sand is warmed by steam


Fishermans Beach (Spiaggia dei Pescatori) - 

with the stunning Castello Aragonese as a backdrop - good family beach


Sorgeto Beach

bubbling hot spring water - take the steps or a water taxi to get here


Casa Museo

Unusual place to check out on your scooter of discovery trip


Locations for the Talented Mr Ripley -  Ischia Porto -  Ischia Ponte -  Castello Aragonese - Bagno Antonio private beach - Palazzo Malcovati on Ischia Ponte's main street Via Luigi Mazzella is Dickie's Villa - Piazza Malcovati is where the Festival of the Madonna is held in the villa's western side


EAST

Castello Aragonese - the stunning Medieval Castle on its own island at Ischia Ponte plus the Torture Museum and Convent of the Poor Clares


WEST

The fishing village of Sant'Angelo and have some lunch there while you're there taking in the stunning scenery - the village is car free giving it a very laid back vibe

Have a look at the Mezzatorre Hotel - it's quite flash


Procida - Hire a Scooter or E-bike

There are around 7 beaches on the island and most of them have dark volcanic sand


Chiaia Beach - 

safe for children and has 2 cafes and sunbeds


Chiaiolella Beach

shallow waters and stunning sunsets


Ciraccio Beach

has two large rocks and is more secluded


Il Postino Beach

from the movie - beach bar with sun beds


Punta Ottimo Beach

harder to get to and quieter


Silurenza Beach

close to the port with lots of bars and restaurants


Lingua Beach

pebble beach - great spot for sunrise over Mount Vesuvius


See fishermen repairing nets and their boats bobbing in the harbour like they have been for 400 years while you relax at a table with your tipple of choice


See the island by foot / E-bike or scooter


Talented Mr Ripley locations - all around Marina Corricella and the back lanes -  the steep Via San Rocco with the Church of Our Lady of Grace -  Piazza dei Martiri at the top of Via San Rocco

Other locations were in Naples, Rome and Venice



· Do -

Naples -

Walk along the Spaccanpoli that splits the city in two and stop to sample the pizzerias along its length and some sweet treats as well


Wander down Via San Gregorio Armeno or "Christmas Alley where it is Christmas all year


Day trip to Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius and Herculaneum


Isle of Capri -

People watching (World class) in the Piazzetta - the main square - for coffee and cocktails


Celebrity spotting - after the day trippers have left the island


Have a swim and spend some time at Marina Piccola - where Ulysses was seduced by the Sirens


Take the chairlift up Mount Solaro and follow the trail back down past the Cetrella Hermitage. There is a cafeteria up the top


There are many hiking paths around the island such as the spectacular Pathway of the Forts, the unforgettable Via Krupp down to the Marina Piccola, the Via del Pizzolungo from the Natural Arch to the Faraglioni and  the Piazetta to Tragara to Pizzolungo


Climb the 921 Phoenician steps 

from Marina Grande to Anacapri - or descend them


Take a boat trip 

around the island


Bagni Tiberio 

(since 1926) - swim amongst the Roman ruins at the islands first and most popular beach club - boats / restaurant - favourite spot of Emperor Tiberius - a lunch to remember


Have a day at the beach (club) - bring your wallet / purse


Ischia -

Hot Springs and Thermal Mud Spas - Over 100 Thermal Springs


Negombo Thermal Gardens - Possibly the best one - modern place with all of the usuals. Food is very good here, it has the best beach on the island, steaming waterfalls and pools are built into natural outcrops. Unusual works of art are scattered around the gorgeous gardens.


Poseidon Thermal Gardens

Considered the most beautiful in Italy -  3 huge saltwater outdoor pools, 1 indoor pool, saunas, Turkish Baths, Hot Jacuzzis and cold baths, private access and stunning views of the beach


Terme di Cavascura

Old Roman Baths basically in use since those times, out in the open, cave sauna, waterfall hot shower and mud baths


Sorgeto Natural Hot Springs

Climb down 234 steps to a variety of temperatures in pools situated in a very picturesque little cove by a tiny beach. Completely natural and free!! +Mud. You can cook in the pools and on the rocks - take some potatoes and sausages along. There is a restaurant here too. It gets very crowded so if you like to visit at night time the area is illuminated


Castiglione Thermal Park

was used to treat TB patients and war veterans. Has lodging and doctors so you can get all inclusive deals. It is one of the top 3 on the island.


Giardino Eden

cheaper, smaller place with unparalleled views of the Castello Aragonese and good food


Vagnitiello Thermal Park

the most natural of the thermal parks. It has a tropical garden ovelooking the sea, 4 pools, hydrotherapy etc.


Nitrodi Natural Springs

you can actually drink the water here which reportedly has myriad health benefits both internally and externally. The islanders have been curing skin diseases, other ailments and rejuvenating themselves here for 2,000 years. The Romans were so impressed they used to donate votive offerings and the Italian Department of Health has acknowledged its therapeutic properties. It has a bar which sell drinks made only from the precious water and the herbs and flowers in the gardens. A popular accompaniment is a face mask also made with the water.


Aphrodite Apollon Gardens

thermal pools named after the Greek Gods and a natural grotto


Walk down to Ischia Ponte and the extremely impressive Castello Aragonese


Club Scannella

out of the way beach club with hot and cold swimming and good food and drinks


Cooking Lessons


Hike up Mount Epomeo 

for stunning 360 degree views of the island and an exclusive lunch at the one of a kind Ristorante La Grotta da Fiore 

up there. Follow the path Via Militare to get there. It's about a one kilometre trek up.


Or if you don't feel like hiking just ride up to the nearby

La Porta di Agartha


Wine tasting / Horse riding / Rent a boat - no experience necessary


Procida -

Steep climb up to the medieval village of Terra Murata for the views - see two of the major cultural attractions while you are up there as well. The Abbey of San Michele and the Palazzo D'Avalos - the Royal Palace and Hunting Lodge for the Bourbons. Later on it became a military school and a prison that only closed in 1988. After WWII the prison held 22 of Mussolini's fascists and during the 70's and 80's it played host to local mafia crime bosses and their lieutenants.


Wander around the narrow alleyways and say hello to a few locals.


Vivara Island

nature reserve with hiking trails where you can see birdlife, rare plants and possibly dolphins and whales. At the moment it is not open to the public though you can have a look at it by boat.


Take a boat tour around the island / Kayak around the island



  • Eat - Pizza and Seafood

Naples -

Home of pizza (and the old town is a great place to find it) - try nearby Via dei Tribunali for the best pizza in the world - try Sorbillo for the best pizza in the city, therefore the world again. You may have to wait an hour or so. Try fried pizza too.


But what about L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele founded in 1870 near the train station. They have the best pizza. There's only one way to find out.


Spaghetti alla Vongole (with clams) comes from Naples as does Pasta alla Genovese (stewed meat and onions)


Purpetiello Affogato

poached octopus


Naples is also famous for its sweet treats as well (also in the old town) - like Sfogliatelle crusty little numbers stuffed with orange flavoured ricotta - add a coffee and you have breakfast


Try Gay-Odin for amazing chocolate ice cream


Isle of Capri -

Capresi Salad

vine ripened tomatoes, mozzarella and basil - the colours of the Italian flag


Ravioli Capresi

filled with caciotta cheese and marjoram


Torta Capresi

made with chocolate and almonds


Buonocore Gelateria - for the best gelato and little Caprilu al Limone cakes


Gelato - at Capri Crema Cafe 

with a panoramic view


Salumeria Da Aldo

delicious old style sandwiches that are wallet friendly


La Fontelina

for a blow the budget lunch in paradise


Ristorante Da Gemma

at the main port for the islands best pizza on the overwater terrace, the pasta and seafood are worth the journey as well


Ristorante Pulalli

great value, food and outdoor seating


Lo Smeraldo

fantastic sea views and food


Aurora

120 year old + restaurant that attracts the rich and famous


Ischia -

They say you should never endure a bad meal on Ischia


PORTO

Gelato - get the best stuff at Pasticceria Trani in Ischia Ponte - go for the dark-chocolate and the pastries

or at De Maio also the best - been in the business over 80 years


Bar Calise

for breakfast after dancing all night - island's best croissants


Ristorante Alberto - 

Great views and a popular with the celebrities


Dai Tu

seafood on the waterfront half way to Ischia Ponte


Ristaronte La Terrazza di Mimi

on the Riva Destra


FORIO

For the best seafood in Southern Italy head down to Ristorante Emanuela - try the Spaghetti Emanuela with a carafe of Peach Sangria


Taverna Pietro Paulo detto Stalino - 

huge portions and ridiculously cheap seafood dishes


Procida -

Granita di Limon at Felice Mare

the masters


Chiaro di Luna Bar

for afternoon gelato with a view


Lunch at Marina Chiaiolella - fishing village - Try Da Mariano (Pasta with mussels and broccoli) / or Crescenzo (Smoked swordfish with mashed potatoes and Roasted octopus with anchovy sauce)


La Lampara

sea food and sea views - Tortelli stuffed with sea urchins and Tuna with pistachio


Caracale

waterfront - Bonito tartare and Spaghetti with local mantis shrimp


Ristorante Gorgonia

Sea urchin spaghetti and lemon salad


La Pergola

delicious food under a lemon tree pergola - the best rabbit on the island and don't miss the deserts


  • Drink -

Naples -

Caffe Mexico

popular coffee spot since 1953

Piazza San Domenico Maggiore - 

check out the pubs in this nearby square and also in Piazza Nilo - as well as Piazza Bellini



Isle of Capri

It's normal to have dinner after 10 pm and many clubs don't open until midnight and go through till sunrise

Taverna Anema e Core - historic place to hang out for celebrities and the jet set with Neapolitan  music

Lanterna Verde - Piano bar with a view to die for

Qube Cafe - laid back bar near the main square


Ischia -

Cactus cocktail at the Ravino Gardens

Try the mineral rich wines


Ischia Porto -  is buzzing 24 hours a day - head over to Riva Destra, the eastern side of the harbour for the best bars and restaurants

There are a fair number of restaurants, bars, pubs and nightclubs and discos


Forio Ischia -

Bar Maria - a favourite since the 1950's

Plenty of places around the harbour and main street


Procida -

Locally has plenty of restaurants and bars as has Marina Grande

Felice Mare - the best cocktails in Marina di Corracello and mind blowing Lemon Granita - don't miss the Limoncello Spritz - nice harbour views too

Bar Graziella - featured in several films


  • Sundowners -

Naples -

Ovo Castle


Capri -

Punta Carena Lighthouse - Malibu (with a DJ) and  da Antonio (White Wine & Peaches) for drinks - go early and have a swim


La Palette - Classy restaurant with a wonderful vantage point


Ischia -

Riva Destra- the right hand side of the harbour at Ischia Porto for cocktails


Poseidon Thermal Gardens


Chiesa del Soccorso - ancient church


San Francesco Beach - for an array of striking colours


La Tavernetta del Pirata - at Sant'Angelo for sundowners


La Floreana - near Serrara Fontana


La Cantina di Zio Jack - have a memorable meal with spectacular views, time your arrival just before sunset


Procida -

Felice Mare - Limoncello Spritz


Grab a table and a drink at Marina Chiaiolella


Pozzo Vecchio Beach - Annamaria Bar


Maresia Solarium - Peach Bellinis


Terra Murata - looking over the coloured houses



  • Specialties -

Naples -

Thin crust pizza (Is there any other sort) / Pastries / Lemon Granitas / Coffee


Capri -

Limoncello di Capri - limoncello is a specialty in this region thanks in part to the very large and tasty lemons

Excellent cheeses including - mozzarella, caciocavallo, and silano.

Capri is famous for its delicious tomatoes

Lemons - are huge and have a very pleasant flavour and are added to most dishes


Ischia -

Coniglio all'Ischitana the island's classic rabbit dish - try it at - Il Bracconiere

The Zingara sandwich - toasted mozzarella, tomato, prosciutto crudo and lettuce - invented in the 70's in a bar at the porto during the Hippy era.

Rum cake with Lemon Liqueur

Coffee - roasted the old way

Limoncello


Procida -

Procida Lemons have been cultivated at a family level for a long time. After WWII demand was so high they started uprooting vineyards and planting lemon trees. The large lemons have a particularly thick pith which is called bread by the islanders. When ripe it has an intense perfume and a pleasant acidic flavour.


Lemon Specialties - Insalata di Limomi (Lemon Salad) / Limoncello / lemon Granita / Lingua di Suocera ("mother in-law’s tongue") - puff pastry filled with lemon custard - also called Lingua di Bue (Ox tongue) - invented here by a chef in the 1950's - Bar Roma Pasticceria in Marina Grande has the best


Fresh fish and Seafood

Spaghetti ai ricci di mare - with Sea urchins / Pasta con i Totanielli - with tiny squid / Spaghetti con le cannochie di Procida - historic dish with local mantis shrimp


Coniglio alla Procidana - rabbit dish similar to the specialty of Ischia - it is stewed with garlic, tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil and wine



  • Souvenirs -

Naples -

Head to Limone for some lemon products, free samples and have a look at how they're made


Capri -

Capri Bells - Handmade bell - symbolizing health, happiness and luck

Handmade Canfora Capri Sandals (since 1946 and world famous, buy them where Jacqueline Kennedy did) / Cheese

Limoncello di Capri

Anacapri is a good place to go souvenir shopping


Ischia -

Rucolino - Wild Arugula (Roclet) Liqour

Crema di Limoncello - made with milk and cream

Arancello - like Limoncello but made from oranges


Procida -

Lemon products


Tips -

· Travel as light as possible as you are staying in some hilly areas and catching boats


· It's best to time your visit for Procida mid-week as it's a popular destination for Neapolitans on the weekends


· Get the book Arturo's Island by Elsa Morante set in Procida and published in 1957


· The dress code is very relaxed on Capri for men and women - it's very hard to get around the steep hills in heels


· In Capri scooters can be rented nearby where the ferries arrive. Only residents can have cars in the peak and shoulder seasons (April to October). These are a great way to get around the island's narrow roads. Your alternatives are walking, boat or the bus.


· They can be rented near where the ferries arrive in Ischia Porto as well as cars.


· And in Procida near the port. E bikes as well.


· Escape the day trippers on Capri by getting out and about around the island and returning when they have left



· Festivals -

Naples -

Festival Ethnos - world music festival - September and earl October

Napoli Film Festival


Capri -

International Folklore festival - August - Bands and folk dancing.

Settembratta Anacaprese - Rustic grape harvest festival

Capri Film Festival - December


Ischia -

Mardi Gras / Carnivale - February

Ischia Jazz Festival in September

Halloween - 31st October


Procida -

The Sea Festival - 3 days in Summer

Procida International Film Festival


  • Extra -

See # 149 (Southern) Italy in 'Countries A - L' and Corsica in 'Islands'


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