Witness the unexplainable and see if you can - explain it
NAGA FIREBALLS FESTIVAL & Dragon Boat Festival 3 Weeks October - Nong Khai THAILAND
Photo by Martin Woortman on Unsplash
INFORMATION
Thailand's Most Mysterious Festival
HIGHLIGHTS - Naga balls & dragon boats​
Bangkok 3N
Ayutthaya 3N
Udon Thani 4N
Nong Khai 8N = 21N
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Chinatown
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Skybar
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Asiatique
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Maggie Choo's
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Riverside Bars
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Grand Palace
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Emerald Buddha
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Reclining Buddha
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Solid Gold Buddha
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Wat Arun
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Floating market
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Ho Chi Minh's House
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3D Sidewalk Art
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Red Lotus Lake
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UNESCO listed Ayutthaya
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UNESCO listed Ban Chiang
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Three big Nagas and lots of little ones
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Tentatively UNESCO listed sacred pilgrimage site Wat Phra That Phanom
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Thailand’s Longest Urban Bike Path
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Naga Balls, Dragon Boat (and possibly Fireboat Festivals)
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All travel information including hotels etc is at the bottom of this page
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Most Thai festivals work on the Lunar Calender so the dates change every year and it can be frustrating trying to find out what they are early enough to get your bookings in. If you're lucky you may be able to see the Fire Boat Festival in Nakhon Phanom before you go to Nong Khai for the Naga Fire Balls and Dragon Boat Festivals. A 3 in 1 festival trip!! Start the trip to coincide with the two festivals in Nong Khai which run at the same time.
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1 Bangkok - 3N
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Fly into Suvarnabhumi International Airport then take an official taxi to your hotel in the Banglamphu area near Khao San Road. I recommend you download the maps.me app to your phone and download the Bangkok map so you can use it to navigate while you are moving around. Also it pays to carry a photocopy of your passport around with you.​​
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Photo by Simon Steinberger on Pixabay
Nagas
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River of Kings - The Chao Phraya
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Spend the rest of the afternoon / evening looking around the neighbourhood. You will find everything your heart could desire and quite a few things you didn't even know existed.
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Find a table in the street, order a beer or a bottle of Sang Som (Thai rum), coke, soda and ice bucket then just sit there and watch the world go by. Just about every demographic of the world is represented. If you're a Thai Boxing fan you could go to the nearby Rajadamnern Stadium which has bouts starting around 6.30 PM. It's only 2 km away so you could walk or take a tuk tuk.
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2
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Off for a walking tour today to cross the major bucket list items off of your list.
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No rush to get up, you need to be at Sky Bar for 6pm opening and Sunset
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Head off at 10am and you should have plenty of time. The restaurant Krua Apsorn doesn't open until 10.30. Have a very light breakfast at the hotel.
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You will need long pants and shoes (men) to get in to Sky Bar ladies get away with being more casual but no flip flops. Zip off pants are a great idea.
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They will be handy for the Grand Palace too, although normally you can rent a sarong or happy pants.
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Watch out for pickpockets around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
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Make your way to the the 14 October 1973 Memorial - 500,000 people gathered here to protest the Three Tyrants
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Then down to the Democracy Monument - where it all began in 1932 and it has become a place for protesters to assemble
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Brunch at Krua Apsorn (Apsorn's Kitchen) a famous place to eat that uses recipes that were used in the palace to feed Royalty - (Stir fried crab in curry powder is highly recommended)
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The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) - hard to miss this one at 21 meters tall, at one time Louis Leonowens the son of Anna (as in the King and I) donated the teak for the swing)
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Next door is Wat (temple) Suthat Thepwararam Ratchaworahawihan - is one of the oldest and most important temples - King Rama 8 is buried here.​​
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Nuttaporn Ice cream - time for a cool break, they have local flavours and have been making ice cream pretty much since Bangkok has had it and use the finest mangoes money can buy
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Phraeng Phuton Square - next to Nuttaporn and has some classic old shops that are worth a look
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Bangkok City Pillar Shrine - this was the first building put up on this side of the river
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The Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawang) and the the Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo Morakot) - which has had an interesting life with lots of travel
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Wat Pho - the home of the Reclining Buddha and Thai massage
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Museum Siam - an interactive and fun lesson in Thai history and Thai culture
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It must be time for a drink - make your way to the river and the Yodpiman ferry wharf and take an orange flagged ferry to the Oriental Pier (Don't worry the ticket lady will tell you which ferry to get on - just watch how the locals do it and follow suit - it's an adventure in itself plus you will have a pleasant cruise down the river as well.
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Get off at the Oriental Hotel (Bangkok's first hotel and the best in the world for many years in a row) and have a look / drink as you make your way to the Sky Bar at the Lebua State Tower - if you're a bit early there's plenty to see in this neighbourhood. The bar opens at 6 pm and it's good to be on time to see it in the light and the dark and the sun sets quickly in the tropics.
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Drinks aren't overly expensive and you only need to stay for one. You'll still have plenty of time to take in the view of this amazing city. You could also go around the corner to Maggie Choos for a few more.
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Now it's time for dinner and there are many choices. Charoen Krung Rd outside he building has some famous places to eat - or you could take the complimentary ferry (get on just south of the main Sathon Pier) down to ASIATIQUE the Riverfront where you have eating, drinking and shopping in a recreated 1900's style - or you could catch the Sky Train (from Saphan Taksin station) down to Sukhumvit Rd for a night out (there is something foe everyone). Catching a tuk tuk home and racing through the trafficless streets is one of the great things to do in Bangkok. Don't forget to barter.
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3
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Have another sleep in if you need it. You have another big day ahead. Time for some exercise to blow the cobwebs out. Or you could opt for a motorcycle taxi. You're off to Bang Krachao - the"Green Lungs of Bangkok" (a riverine island that will make you forget you are in the big city). It is the perfect place to cycle around and it has a number of attractions along the way. One of the highlights is riding along the elevated pathways through the mangrove forest and Green Road and Flower Street.
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On the weekend you'll have lots of company and everything will be open including the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery and the Floating Market. Don't forget to take a hat and a copy of your passport.
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First of all you'll need to eat. You've probably noticed by now that eating is a national past time around here and you are never more than 10 meters away from food at any time. Just down the road is a place that's been there for over 80 years and it's called Karim Roti Mataba. The food is very good and very cheap. Stop in for a bite on your way to the Phra Athit ferry pier. Catch the ferry down to the main Sathon pier by the Thaksin bridge.
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From here take a taxi to the Klong Toey pier. Taxis are generally cheaper, safer, cooler and less hassle than tuk tuks. But nowhere near as much fun! Catch the boat across to Bang Krachao pier where you will see the bicycle rental shop. You'll need you passport copy and they will give you a map and a bottle of water. The bikes are reasonable and very cheap. The map isn't that good, either is google maps, so it's a good thing you downloaded maps.me.
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I would go in an anticlockwise direction. The two dots after the floating market towards the river are the Green Road and Flower Street. The Bangkok Tree House is a good place to stop for a beer on the roof.
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Once you're back across the river find yourself a taxi and go to the Klong Toei Metro Station. You want to head west and get off at the Hua Lamphong MRT station.
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From here walk to Wat Traimit to see the world's largest solid gold Buddha that was discovered by accident
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Enter Chinatown through the China Gate. Chinatown originally was where you were walking around yesterday but was moved here to make way for the Grand Palace. The main road here Yaowarat Rd was the first road in Thailand. The snaking road is said to represent a dragon and the China Gate is its head. It has had a colourful history. Chinatown is actually called Yaowarat. All of your senses will be challenged in this vibrant and colourful area.
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Stroll around - sit down - eat and drink. Seafood here is legendary and one of the most famous spots is the corner where the Lek & Rut (Red team) and T & K (Green team) Seafood Restaurants compete for customers.
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Catch a taxi or tuk tuk home when you've had enough.
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4 ayutthaya - 2N
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​Take a tuk tuk to get to River City early to take a pleasure cruise towards the previous capital Ayutthaya. Drinks and a buffet lunch are included. As is a bicycle tour of the Ayutthaya Historical Park and drop off at your hotel. The beauty of Ayutthaya is that the ruins are scattered around the city so you will see them everywhere you go. Back in it's heyday Ayutthaya was one of the world's most cosmopolitan cities, much grander than London. The Burmese sacked the city in 1767 which led to Bangkok becoming the capital. If you've ever seen pictures of Schwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, that's where all the gold went. Ayutthaya is a UNESCO World Heritage Listed Site.
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If the boat trip isn't available just catch the train up. And have a sleep in.
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If you came by train hire a bike and do your own tour (feel free to skip a few temples to shorten the tour) or join in a half day one. It's also worth doing at night time as all the temples are illuminated. You can hire a tuk tuk to take you around too.
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Go to Bangkok Tours 1
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​For dinner head to the night market. Look for the local specialty Roti Sai Mai that was invented here. It's like fairy floss in roti. Another specialty is "boat noodles" (noodle soup) which used to be sold from boats in the waterways. For drinks you don't have to head anywhere. Tony's has a bar and the street you are on is known as Soi Farang (Foreigner Street) and has a number of bars, some live music etc and is a good place to meet fellow travellers.
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Ayutthaya Floating Market - Cultural Show
5
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When you're ready make your way out to the Ayutthaya Floating Market. It's a pleasant place to wander about, even have a massage and then have lunch. Don't miss the show it's hysterical.
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There is a lot to see and do here so if there is anything you'd particularly like to do this afternoon would be a good time. There are boat cruises around the island (yes Ayutthaya is an island), the Elephant Kraal, Bang Pa Palace, Ayutthaya has a very nice Golf Course etc etc.
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For dinner head to Ban U Thong Restaurant and it's riverside terrace. They specialize in seafood and the local jumbo river prawns.
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If you want to try out a new area for drinks tonight get a tuk tuk / taxi over to the area around the New Cowboy Bar on Rojana Rd near the Ayutthaya Grand Hotel. They have live music every night.​​​​
6 - 8 Nakhon Phanom - 3N
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Time to get off the beaten track a bit. Catch the train back towards Bangkok which conveniently stops across the road from the old airport - Don Mueang (DMK) and has a walking bridge across the motorways. Fly up to the very pretty town on the banks of the Mekong - Nakhon Phanom. It's name means city of mountains and they are all across the river in Laos. Which means there are lovely views all along the riverfront which stretches for kilometers.
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If you had planned to do #78 Tha Kaek Loop motorbike trip this is the place to cross the border. Nakhon Phanom was one of 8 major air bases from which the US waged war on Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia in the 60's and 70's. But Nakhon Phanom has also welcomed the Vietnamese when King Rama III invited 150 families to live here in the 1840's. In the 1920's a very famous Vietnamese man lived here and you can go and visit his house. Refugees also fled here to escape the French after WWII. There still is a Vietnamese community at the village of Ban Na Chok where you will find Ho Chi Minh's modest house. There are Vietnamese restaurants in town, an Indochina Market and a Vietnamese Clocktower. there are plenty of restaurants to pick from and bars as well as Walking Street to amuse you in the evenings. Sometimes the Hotel will have a band on.
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Stay in a lovely riverside hotel where you can see another country sitting on your toilet. It's worth crawling out of bed to see the amazing sunrises over Laos. This is a very laid back town and the locals are very friendly. You can rent a car, scooter or bicycle from the hotel. They have their own tuk tuk and free sunset cruise boat, several restaurants and are next door to a petrol station with a convenience store.​
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Nakhon Phanom - looking across the Mekong into Laos
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Some of the towns attractions include several Ho Chi Minh sites, (he lived here for a while), Mekong Walking Street and Night market, Former Governors Residence Museum (King Rama IX and his Queen spent a night here) and Mekong Underwater World. You can walk, run or bike along the River Promenade, learn how to plant rice, there are many temples and a church. There are traditional villages where you can learn skills and get "hands on" and you can get up early to participate in Pak Bat - the giving of alms to monks on their early morning rounds so that you can make merit. There are various markets around, an old prison museum and waterfront restaurants that are nice just to sit around, chat, have a drink and take in the view.
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A worthwhile half day trip is to head down to the sacred temple that is Wat Phra That Phanom which is said to contain the Buddha's breast bone. It is highly revered by both Thais and Lao who consider it a once in a life time opportunity to make a pilgrimage here. If you visit 7 times you can expect prosperity to follow. Once a year there is a festival. There is also an open border market with Laos along the riverfront on Mondays and Thursdays.
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Wat Phrathat Phanom Woramahawihan - a Pilgrimage Site
9 Udon Thani - 4N
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Hop on the bus and head to the site of another major USAF base during the Vietnam War. Udon was a front line facility and it was also the Asian headquarters for Air America, the CIA owned airline that waged a secret and illegal war on Laos and saturated the USA with heroin. Since then Udon Thani has grown to be an important regional hub. It also has some of the biggest ex-pat numbers in Thailand. Which means there is a good range of hotels, cafes, restaurants, bars, clubs, large shopping mall with a cinema complex, night life and some Night Markets.
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If you're into old stuff there is the UNESCO listed Ban Chiang a well known archaeological site as well as Phu Phrabat Historical Park which has prehistoric cave paintings and peculiarly shaped rocks. There is a big park and lake in the centre of town which is good for some fresh air and exercise. It's also good for a coffee or sunset drinks. Take a selfie with the ducks and the @Udonthani sign. The Chinese Cultural Centre is worth a look. There's a pretty spectacular Vietnamese Restaurant when you're hungry. The Red Lotus Sea might be blooming if you're lucky and there is a very nice golf course worth playing at.
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Train Station
13 nong Khai - 8N
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Time for the main event. Nong Khai is just up the road and you have a few choices on how to get there, bus, train or taxi. There is also a Rowing Festival which runs during your stay here and draws about 100,000 people. Nong Khai is a great place anyway and with all of the excitement going on you will find it unforgettable. Everything takes place along the riverfront which is well developed. Hopefully you get lots of Naga Balls. But I think with everything else you will be seeing that is just the cherry on the cake. See below for details.
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Plenty of good eating in Nong Khai. Try the German Bakery for breakfast and Rudi's apple pie.
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Apart from the festivals you'll also find lots to see and do. Play golf at Victory Park and while you're out there drop into the Isaan Rum Distillery. See Buddha Park (Sala Keoku), hang around the riverfront and enjoy the party.
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You could take the overnight train back to Bangkok. Or fly out of Udon Thani. Or you could go across the first Friendship bridge into Laos and continue your adventures there.
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BUNG FAI PHAYA NAK
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WHEN -
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The 15th waxing moon of the 11th lunar month, the full moon on the last day of Buddhist Lent, or late October early November.
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It's hard to pin down the exact date too far out. Just keep googling.
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LENGTH -
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It coincides with the Dragon Boat racing festival and lasts for 8 days.
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The Naga Balls are 1 night only.
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HISTORY -
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Believed by locals to be the breath of Phaya Nak a giant serpent which they believe resides within the river. People have been gathering along the river bank to party and watch the Naga Balls since about 1983 depending on who you ask.
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No one has been able to explain what these balls of light that float out of the Mekong are. There have been many theories but none have been proved.
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This happens on one night of the year and is observed from both sides of the river. However it seems to be one day apart from the Lao side and the Thai side.
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Said to be the time that Buddha returned to earth.
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Each Fireball is applauded and said to be then return of Buddha to earth in Naga form.
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Even scientists are yet to explain it.
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WHERE -
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The majority of the festival is celebrated in Nong Khai, then it moves to Phon Phisai for the night of the Naga Balls. Nong Khai is 624 km NE of Bangkok and Phon Phisai is 46 km east of Nong Khai.
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ABOUT -
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Around 40,000 attend the fireballs at Phon Pisai and 100,000 at Nong Khai for the Dragon boats. This is one out of the box and quite rare as far as festivals go.
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Bangkok - Stay at or near the New Siam Riverside - anywhere in the Banglamphu area will be fine.
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Ayutthaya - Stay at or near Tony's Place Beds & Breakfast *** - great location, swimming pool, must try Kiwi Italian Soda, not on Booking.com
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Nakhon Phanom - Stay at or near The River Hotel **** - fantastic views of the sunrise, free breakfast, several restaurants, free sunset cruise
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Udon Thani - Stay at or near Centara Hotel & Convention Centre Udon Thani **** - great location, linked to the main shopping mall, outdoor pool, fitness centre, hot tub, sauna, steam room, massage, beauty salon, 2 restaurants, karaoke, bar, happy hour
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Nong Khai - Stay at or near the Amanta Hotel Nong Khai **** - restaurant, bar, fitness centre, free breakfast, 24 hour desk
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INCLUDES -
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Naga Balls rising out of the Mekong (some people say they make a slight hissing noise)
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Dragon boat races, Street Festival, Giant illuminated floats, 2 hour sound and light show take photos with the performers afterwards, floating lanterns, concert, lots of street food, Fireworks
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Thai Fair
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HIGHLIGHT -
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Naga Balls night in Phon Phisai
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Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK) - has direct flights to 116 cities in 46 countries, covering everywhere except the Americas. They should link up with Europe, Asia or the UAE.
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Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) - has direct flights to 84 cities in 20 countries in Asia. It also has 22 domestic flights and is the cheap airline hub. There is a free shuttle service between the two airports which takes an hour or two depending on traffic.
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Nakhon Phanom Airport (KOP) - has a flight to Don Mueang Airport. Try the cheap airlines like Air Asia or Nok Air.
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Udonthani International Airport (UTH) - has domestic flights around Thailand to the north, Bangkok and south.
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Once you have paid for your airline tickets get some travel insurance to cover yourself
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BRING -
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The right frame of mind. You might not see a lot of Naga Balls and they may not be very spectacular. Or there may be thousands.
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Your camera.
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SAFETY -
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Beware of drunk drivers coming back from Phon Phisai and everywhere else.
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PARTY FACTOR -
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Thai style along the riverfront and surrounding areas.
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Some years are very lean and some have thousands. It's as much about the local culture as about the balls.
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About 95 percent of the 100.000 attendees are local so you'll probably get some attention. Foreigners are treated well in Thailand.
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Information for this page was sourced from the following websites - Mut Mee, Mundo Exchange, Pickyourtrail and Nakara Villas.